F5F Stay Refreshed Hardware Desktop PC arrived brand new but is restarting unexpectedly, no one knows what's wrong.

PC arrived brand new but is restarting unexpectedly, no one knows what's wrong.

PC arrived brand new but is restarting unexpectedly, no one knows what's wrong.

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J
J1son
Member
211
03-08-2025, 07:01 AM
#1
If this PC was assembled at MicroCenter by their team, I’d bring it back quickly for a checkup. You shouldn’t have to spend money on replacement parts because you already have a faulty machine.
J
J1son
03-08-2025, 07:01 AM #1

If this PC was assembled at MicroCenter by their team, I’d bring it back quickly for a checkup. You shouldn’t have to spend money on replacement parts because you already have a faulty machine.

H
herobrine3959
Senior Member
443
03-08-2025, 07:01 AM
#2
Your system performance in the hwinfo screenshot shows a speed of 3400 Mhz or 6800 MT/s. That’s quite fast for an AM5 processor, and I suggest turning off XMP/DOCP settings to help with troubleshooting. Could you tell me which Wi-Fi card model you used initially and again later? How was the card connected? Would you like me to capture some screenshots of the SMART data from your operating system drive using tools like CrystalDiskInfo or hwinfo? From what I understand, there might be a driver or device issue—possibly a USB problem, as it seems Windows is having trouble recognizing it. Additionally, the SSD scan detected some corrupted files, which could be contributing to the problem.
H
herobrine3959
03-08-2025, 07:01 AM #2

Your system performance in the hwinfo screenshot shows a speed of 3400 Mhz or 6800 MT/s. That’s quite fast for an AM5 processor, and I suggest turning off XMP/DOCP settings to help with troubleshooting. Could you tell me which Wi-Fi card model you used initially and again later? How was the card connected? Would you like me to capture some screenshots of the SMART data from your operating system drive using tools like CrystalDiskInfo or hwinfo? From what I understand, there might be a driver or device issue—possibly a USB problem, as it seems Windows is having trouble recognizing it. Additionally, the SSD scan detected some corrupted files, which could be contributing to the problem.

S
161
03-08-2025, 07:01 AM
#3
That would still apply even though you purchased the components from Amazon instead of Micro Centre. You only assembled everything yourself.
S
Smart_man_0709
03-08-2025, 07:01 AM #3

That would still apply even though you purchased the components from Amazon instead of Micro Centre. You only assembled everything yourself.

F
Fordtuff18
Member
141
03-08-2025, 07:01 AM
#4
How is the electricity working in your home? Are there any appliances that draw a lot of power, such as microwaves? Just a quick question.
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Fordtuff18
03-08-2025, 07:01 AM #4

How is the electricity working in your home? Are there any appliances that draw a lot of power, such as microwaves? Just a quick question.

A
Annihilatiion
Junior Member
39
03-08-2025, 07:01 AM
#5
It seems you're considering a return for further diagnosis, as they have many tools available. However, the service would cost $49.99 for a comprehensive diagnostic. Your RAM is at 6800Mhz, which is quite high for a Ryzen 7000 CPU, particularly the 7800X3D. They often prefer around 6000Mhz for stability, not this higher speed.
A
Annihilatiion
03-08-2025, 07:01 AM #5

It seems you're considering a return for further diagnosis, as they have many tools available. However, the service would cost $49.99 for a comprehensive diagnostic. Your RAM is at 6800Mhz, which is quite high for a Ryzen 7000 CPU, particularly the 7800X3D. They often prefer around 6000Mhz for stability, not this higher speed.

C
Calpex
Junior Member
11
03-08-2025, 07:01 AM
#6
I'll turn it off now. The model I just upgraded to is the "TP-Link WiFi 6 AX3000 PCIe WiFi Card (Archer TX3000E)" and the previous one was the "TP-Link WiFI 6 AX3000 PCie Wifi Card (Archer TX55E)". Both were placed in the motherboard PCIe slot. The second one had a wired magnetic hub for an antenna that I mounted on top of my case, facing the router. I'm really hoping it's not an SSD problem, which would be a big issue. Regarding USB issues, what steps should I take? I'm also thinking about getting a new motherboard with better reviews, like the MSI B650 Gaming Plus WiFi, but it won't arrive for another week and I might have to pay someone to replace the old one again.
C
Calpex
03-08-2025, 07:01 AM #6

I'll turn it off now. The model I just upgraded to is the "TP-Link WiFi 6 AX3000 PCIe WiFi Card (Archer TX3000E)" and the previous one was the "TP-Link WiFI 6 AX3000 PCie Wifi Card (Archer TX55E)". Both were placed in the motherboard PCIe slot. The second one had a wired magnetic hub for an antenna that I mounted on top of my case, facing the router. I'm really hoping it's not an SSD problem, which would be a big issue. Regarding USB issues, what steps should I take? I'm also thinking about getting a new motherboard with better reviews, like the MSI B650 Gaming Plus WiFi, but it won't arrive for another week and I might have to pay someone to replace the old one again.

X
XxBlizzardxX
Junior Member
38
03-08-2025, 07:01 AM
#7
It's quite reliable, he's just connected to a large screen TV showing his Xbox Series X and I believe he uses Wi-Fi calling on his phone often. I'm about to enter the BIOS and lower it to 6000, which is AMD's suggested setting too. I hope this was the problem all along. The cost of Micro Centre services has made me delay bringing it back; I spent nearly $400 on the diagnostic and already built it, which exceeded my budget for this project. I anticipate an additional $80 if they need to replace the motherboard, since it might be the root cause. The unit I own is well beyond Amazon's 30-day return window, as I've purchased parts throughout the year to manage expenses better.
X
XxBlizzardxX
03-08-2025, 07:01 AM #7

It's quite reliable, he's just connected to a large screen TV showing his Xbox Series X and I believe he uses Wi-Fi calling on his phone often. I'm about to enter the BIOS and lower it to 6000, which is AMD's suggested setting too. I hope this was the problem all along. The cost of Micro Centre services has made me delay bringing it back; I spent nearly $400 on the diagnostic and already built it, which exceeded my budget for this project. I anticipate an additional $80 if they need to replace the motherboard, since it might be the root cause. The unit I own is well beyond Amazon's 30-day return window, as I've purchased parts throughout the year to manage expenses better.

B
BrunoGamerG9
Junior Member
15
03-08-2025, 07:01 AM
#8
Hope everything works with the RAM. Please share your results with us. The Ryzen 7000 struggles above 6000Mhz, reaching 6800Mhz isn't straightforward and might be unstable. Purchasing components long-term isn't advised since returns can happen before testing. It's better to save and buy everything together, especially with multiple parts involved. Life teaches us lessons, sometimes they're tough! Good luck!
B
BrunoGamerG9
03-08-2025, 07:01 AM #8

Hope everything works with the RAM. Please share your results with us. The Ryzen 7000 struggles above 6000Mhz, reaching 6800Mhz isn't straightforward and might be unstable. Purchasing components long-term isn't advised since returns can happen before testing. It's better to save and buy everything together, especially with multiple parts involved. Life teaches us lessons, sometimes they're tough! Good luck!

T
trevin18
Junior Member
14
03-08-2025, 07:01 AM
#9
It appears everything is functioning properly, which is encouraging. I suspect you might be using a USB wireless device, but it seems to be internal rather than external. Generally, with USB connections, avoid overloading the hub—consider pairing devices differently based on power requirements (e.g., low-power items in USB 2 ports, high-power items in USB 3 ports). You might also experiment with switching ports from rear to front or vice versa. This isn’t a strong recommendation at the moment since I’m uncertain about its effectiveness. Do you have any affordable adapters you’d like to test, or should I try using an Ethernet cable with the wireless adapter removed? They seem similar enough and could share a driver package, which might help with troubleshooting.
T
trevin18
03-08-2025, 07:01 AM #9

It appears everything is functioning properly, which is encouraging. I suspect you might be using a USB wireless device, but it seems to be internal rather than external. Generally, with USB connections, avoid overloading the hub—consider pairing devices differently based on power requirements (e.g., low-power items in USB 2 ports, high-power items in USB 3 ports). You might also experiment with switching ports from rear to front or vice versa. This isn’t a strong recommendation at the moment since I’m uncertain about its effectiveness. Do you have any affordable adapters you’d like to test, or should I try using an Ethernet cable with the wireless adapter removed? They seem similar enough and could share a driver package, which might help with troubleshooting.

F
flamex123456
Member
227
03-08-2025, 07:01 AM
#10
It seems you experienced issues after adjusting the RAM. You lowered it to 6000 and then again to 5600, following a recommendation. Initially, the audio stopped first, but the system remained somewhat functional until the restart. The Wi-Fi stayed on, though your YouTube video froze and new apps would open normally before freezing. Eventually, the screen went dark, displayed "No Signal," and you had to restart. You mentioned having an older model you could test, which you replaced due to previous failure on another machine.
F
flamex123456
03-08-2025, 07:01 AM #10

It seems you experienced issues after adjusting the RAM. You lowered it to 6000 and then again to 5600, following a recommendation. Initially, the audio stopped first, but the system remained somewhat functional until the restart. The Wi-Fi stayed on, though your YouTube video froze and new apps would open normally before freezing. Eventually, the screen went dark, displayed "No Signal," and you had to restart. You mentioned having an older model you could test, which you replaced due to previous failure on another machine.

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