overclocking limits for i9-9900k
overclocking limits for i9-9900k
I've shared all the details you mentioned earlier. The system can't manage the 9900k if the CPU exceeds 150A, which would result in around 200 watts of power consumption during overclocking. The GPU will draw up to 280 watts and the pump can handle no more than 22-35 watts. He should still have sufficient power remaining. Refer to the PSU tier list I provided; the PSU is rated level 1, which is a solid option. Other PSUs are generally pricier.
Personally, I’d opt for a higher wattage PSU and choose a better rating such as platinum or titanium. I currently use an AX1000 Titanium but haven’t prioritized cost with the PSU. Even so, he might manage with a 750-watt 80 gold PSU while capping the CPU current at 150A. Maintaining moderate overclocking is advisable; otherwise, temperatures may be unavoidable.
The 9900k tends to get very hot in Prime95 small FFTs. Avoiding this is difficult due to the power demands at higher frequencies like 5GHz. Delaying the upgrade and opting for a direct die solution would yield better cooling results in games and Prime95. Eventually, managing the heat becomes unavoidable.
Image 1: I have a Corsair H115i AIO 280mm, OC’d 9900k @5GHz. It’s stable? Run AIDA64, first stop 100°C per core.
You’re correct about delidding—it can cause permanent CPU damage (it’s not something you need to fix). Good luck with the RMA process for that CPU.
The 9900k will operate at elevated temperatures throughout the day. The problem arises when frequencies rise above 5GHz, pushing temperatures past 90°C and eventually reaching 100°C. Reaching 100°C at the TJUNCTION is when thermal throttling begins.
Solutions include limiting CPU power, lowering frequency (the AVX offset keeps it around 4.7-4.8GHz), reducing voltage, or improving cooling. A chiller (expensive) is one way to push cooling limits. Some users opt for the MORA3 Radiator:
https://thermalbench.com/2016/09/12/wate...adiator/2/
It won't work and you can rely on AVX offsets, along with other methods, to maintain temperatures without removing parts. Or restrict the CPU's current draw, which will also affect temperatures. There will be a performance drop. You might need to pay for a 9900k die and a liquid cooler. Even then, cracking the chip remains possible if you skip proper water block installation or apply excessive pressure.
I thought it wouldn't be worth it, so I'm going to opt for an off-set on the CPU instead. I don't do much except playing games on my PC and streaming occasionally, so I'm not putting too much strain on the system. I plan to get a higher wattage PSU just in case. I'm hoping I can cancel my cable mod cables now, though lol.
Delidding the cpu does not cost much if you buy a cpu thats already delidded for you. Example https://www.overclockers.co.uk/inte...ke....html#t=a2 If you want to replace the PSU thats up to you. The video shows an example of were in the bios you would limit the CPU power. Note most games won't cause the cpu to run at its maximum power draw. So you are just limiting power for the heaviest of loads. This way you never have to worry about what avx loads you run. This will keep you from hitting 100c in prime95, aida64 or HEVC etc. There is an option to change the core curent limit. From what I have read 150 amps sames like a good limit but you can play about with the settings. One to see if this is likely to work and to find what the best values are likely to be. Max VID - (resistance * amps)= max safe live voltage, up to TJMAX. View: https://www.reddit.com/r/overclocking/co...overclock/ 9900K started needing more voltage for high OC, anything I can do? Hai demons, it's ya boy again. I recently added GPUs to my loop. Before I had the loop, CPU had 360mm and 240mm attached to just it. I did that again because I wanted to test 5.3Ghz properly. But instead of wanting 1.375-1.4V for 5.3Ghz, it started wanting 1.425V and it's only stable in CPU-Z CPU... Maybe Darkbreeze knows more, this is all I know or can find out.
I was only talking about the fact that his PSU is okay as it stands, without knowing the specific model he owns. What I wasn't addressing in that message was anything else you mentioned about the process or delidding, etc.
Regarding the PSU, the 80plus rating doesn’t matter much unless the system is already known to be very good and comes from a brand that guarantees quality with that platform. We often encounter different versions of the same platform, where one performs well while the other using the same platform may not. This highlights why it’s crucial to know the exact model before judging its suitability or reliability for a specific purpose.
Just pointing out the need for a 1200w (or any desired wattage) Titanium-rated PSU could result in someone purchasing many subpar units, including this one, as just one example. Similarly, there are low-quality Gold and Platinum options available too.
I began assembling PCs some time back, using a budget PSU that came bundled with the case. Over the years, several PSU failures occurred. One involved a fire in the coolant case due to a water pump, and another left my server filled with smoke after installing a faulty 1000 w titanium PSU from China. There are also peculiar problems when using subpar PSUs, as anything placed inside the case doesn't function properly. That's why I prefer PSUs rated for the specific model in the list. I chose a Corsair AX1000 based on reviews. This unit offers low ripple. The product page serves as a solid starting point for selecting a quality PSU. Here are some top picks at a glance: Bitfenix BF450G Corsair RM550x – the model I use is the RM750x Seasonic SSR-600TL Seasonic SSR-750PX Corsair AX850 Corsair AX1000 – this is my current PSU. Corsair AX1600i Corsair SF750