NOTHING lets me boot into Windows, and it can't be "fixed"?
NOTHING lets me boot into Windows, and it can't be "fixed"?
It started up successfully. Portable didn't load, but the system did. Now I'm scanning randomly for what I'm searching for.
Starting the Windows Recovery via Lasesoft with a single click. Pausing during the "check and fix registry files" phase. Hopefully it won’t be the tenth attempt to report failure.
It's an exciting situation—uncertain if it'll succeed or not.
It appears the process is complete. Exited the software. Shut down the computer. Removed the USB device. Restarted the PC. The same results occur now, but instead of "automatic repair," I see this new display. I'm attempting to revert the USB drive back to a Windows installation media to test it again...
You may press enter to pick items; if it fails, try using hirenboot and transfer necessary files from C: to D:. Reinstall Windows carefully—double-check the installation drive to avoid mistakes. (A simple way is to unplug the drive, boot again, and install there.) Note that you'll lose programs with data unless they are technically portable; research is needed if it matters. Regarding offline saves, look in the appdata folder—search online for "GAMENAME save file location" to find guidance.
I believe it’s time to simply finalize the process. An SSD would be a smart choice right now. Would it be wise to reinstall Windows on it and then move all data from the old drive directly into the new one? I’ve been using this computer since 2015, with many updates and changes. I often keep files and programs in place without moving them, and some applications—like the one that saves my desktop icons—don’t transfer properly. I’m not confident I can recreate the exact setup on the new drive. If I get a new SSD, is there a way to restore everything exactly as before? Or am I stuck with uncertainty? I don’t think cloning is an option, and I’m worried about losing my data. This situation feels like a major setback.
No rush, nothing has been lost yet. Buying an SSD and cloning it isn’t foolish. As jaslion mentioned: you just need to follow his steps. You’ll lose only the programs, then reinstall them. I’m confident your desktop icons will remain unchanged if you install everything in its default place and keep your profile folder in the same directory. Theoretically it should work, though some errors might appear. What I mean is you can relocate your profile folder without moving the programs. Programs may fail badly or recover on their own, like Steam does. It’s hit-or-miss. I apologize for any confusion. I assumed you’re fairly tech-savvy since you referenced a hireboot guide. What you did only changed the bootloader on Windows itself—not the actual files. The bootloader doesn’t matter because it won’t start anyway. Fixing Windows is usually a complicated process that takes hours, which is why people recommend a clean reinstall.
Best Buy is shut down until morning. I need to head out then. My goal is to repair the old drive and clone the Windows setup onto a fresh one. Is that possible? Treat the C: partition like an elderly home—everything’s scattered, some items are missing, crucial files are hidden, and I’m 99% sure switching installations will create massive mismatches. Should I opt for a brand-new drive, perform some prep work, or move every single byte to the new drive carefully, like handling a stack of full glasses without dropping any?
You don't need to. The root drive contains Windows Users, which holds everything essential. Program data and program files are stored in the programs files directory, specifically for x64 architecture. That's all unless you created files outside the standard location—then it was a poor decision.
It looks like tonight’s plan is just to upgrade my Windows using a fresh install. If I don’t want to risk losing my drive, I’ll wait until morning. In about 14 hours I should get a new SSD and then try the installation. The main concern is whether Best Buy has compatible drives for my m.2 slot—there’s no clear guidance online, and I’m worried about compatibility with a SATA III device from 2015.