No, you don't require a second 8-pin connector for the 9800x3D.
No, you don't require a second 8-pin connector for the 9800x3D.
My 11-year-old 4770K has passed, so I’m looking to upgrade. I’m considering a 9800x3d setup with the ASRock X870 Pro RX, thinking it’s worth the cost. My current build includes CPU, memory, RAM, and cooler; the rest is already there. There’s a note about needing two 8-pin cables for MB, but my PSU only has one. Is that an issue? I’m planning to overclock and don’t want to replace the PSU if possible. I also read each cable can handle up to 300W, but a chat assistant suggested it might be risky with just one cable under heavy load. Should I get a new PSU or not?
You're mistaken. Just one 8-pin EPS CPU power connector can deliver more than 200 watts continuously. In theory, you could run two 9800X3D units on a single 8-pin power cable. I only use one, and my 9800X3D is overclocked. During intense gaming sessions, it handles around 70-100 watts. It won't crash or become unstable with just one power connector—no need to worry, as I've never used more than one cable for any build.
9800x3D models are now available. For a 3D v-cache CPU, it stands out as the top choice compared to earlier versions thanks to the updated v-cache design. It can be overclocked just like any regular CPU, which previous generations couldn't do (for valid reasons). A purchase of $480 will keep this chip competitive for years, especially when contrasted with the 5800x3D, despite its constraints. The board isn’t overpriced either—back in Intel’s fourth-gen era, a $200 motherboard was ridiculous (to say the least), now it feels like a reasonable price. It offers a good number of USB ports, including USB4, and has a solid PCIe/M.2 configuration, so I don’t see any issues. Unlike VGA aux cards that require all EPS 8 pins to boot, this board lets you run it with just a few connections. You could even start it off with just a single 4-pin, though a full 8-pin would be too restrictive for serious overclocking. A 9950x3D might push past the ~200W power cap of a single 8-pin, usually staying around 200W at 5.2GHz. I’m thinking you’re likely using a +200MHz PBO2 boost and want to fine-tune the fan settings for optimal performance.
Yeah, PBO is working well at -30. The Scalar X10 and 200Mhz are performing fine, even at high temps. I’m aiming for at least 5.6Ghz next.
I strongly suggest swapping the power supply if it's the original unit. The CPU is from more than ten years ago and PSUs tend to wear out, risking damage to your investment. Plus, the GPU is quite outdated. Upgrading would be a better use of your funds. The AM4 platform remains solid and could offer a tenfold performance boost compared to your current setup.
Using an unlocked multiplier could help balance voltage and let the multiplier adapt. Try setting the multiplier to 56 with a PBO offset of 0 or -20. I’m considering re-running this chip but haven’t used cinebench with its SFF settings before. Usually I stay under 90W, let’s aim for around 85W boost. With current temps near 76°C at 85W, increasing the clocks seems possible. A range of +200 to -25 or -40 works well, while -40 was inconsistent long-term; -35 looks more reliable in normal operation.
Inflation is real though the numbers seem wild—$200 in 2014 equals $268 today, which still feels out of place. Back then you could afford premium gear like the Mii Impact or Z97X Soc Force. Now only mid-range models remain, such as the X870 Tomahawk and Aorus Elite. Interestingly, top-tier boards have actually dropped in price thanks to the B650M HDV with Intel. On the other hand, the Apex Tachyon OCF is now more affordable, though it still costs over double that of older models. The 8-pin EPS chip supports up to 336W, but I wouldn’t be surprised if it can go higher—around 500W for extreme gaming, based on what those high scores say. For a 9800X3D, even a 4-pin with over 5.5GHz allcore will get you by.
I see you're questioning the value of POST codes overall. For most applications, especially on high-end eATX systems, I believe POST LEDs work well or even better. I’d favor POST LEDs for the majority since they’re simpler and more reliable. The EPS connector specs vary widely, making it hard to pinpoint a universal limit—some sources suggest 200W for certain models, but that might not reflect current practices. Fortunately, most CPUs stay under 200W, and when they do, manufacturers typically fill all available connectors.
There seem to be boards with dual functionality. Posting postcodes often triggers GPU or memory errors, but the indicators don’t clearly confirm if the board is truly stuck or just trying. I’m considering building my own LPC debug card using a Raspberry Pi Pico since there’s a guide available and ready-made options aren’t accessible for some reason. I might customize it and turn it into a UART postcode scanner once I figure out how to pull postcodes from the UART. I really dislike not knowing what the board is actually doing—whether it’s just failing to send data at all (00) or getting stuck somewhere.