F5F Stay Refreshed Hardware Desktop No salida después del envío

No salida después del envío

No salida después del envío

G
GP_PvP
Junior Member
21
10-04-2022, 11:31 PM
#1
Hi all (again). So I have this "weird" issue where my VG328 (I believe) from ASUS' VG1B series gaming monitors does not give me any display (no BIOS splash screen, no Windows screen) even though I can literally hear the Windows start-up sound from my headset. It's a 31.5", curved,1080p @ 165Hz monitor with HDMI/VGA input only, so I'm using my RTX 5080's only HDMI port. What kind of problem is this? Before the new Nvidia Driver update came out like a day ago (which I clean-installed), I was able to get a display, but even then, it wasn't the smoothest operation: when I started the PC, my monitor would turn on, show me "No HDMI input", put itself back into standby mode and would not wake up unless I press any button on the monitor itself. The most frustrating part of all this is that I get no splash screen when using dedicated GPU, and if I try to spam the BIOS key, my monitor won't even detect any signal/display, no matter how many times I restart it. So as of today, after the update, I can't even get a display for Windows, not to mention the BIOS/UEFI. When I plugged in my older system (with an RTX 3060Ti, I got a display with no problems at all). ChatGPT suggests it's some kind of a "handshake/firmware incompatibility"? When I took it to a PC service shop, the tech guy was able to instantly boot into BIOS. Should I be looking into new monitors? But even then, why does my monitor work with my older system? Current specs: Ryzen 7 9800X3D X870E AORUS ELITE WIFI7 rev 1.1. with the latest BIOS version F8a Kingston Fury 2x16GB DDR5 RAM X1 1TB MP700 Pro Gen5 SSD Gigabyte RTX 5080 Gaming OC Corsair RM850x (2024, 3.1/5.1 compatible) Monitor: VG328 (I think) from ASUS VG1B series, 1080p@165Hz (HDMI input only) OS: Windows 11 24H2
G
GP_PvP
10-04-2022, 11:31 PM #1

Hi all (again). So I have this "weird" issue where my VG328 (I believe) from ASUS' VG1B series gaming monitors does not give me any display (no BIOS splash screen, no Windows screen) even though I can literally hear the Windows start-up sound from my headset. It's a 31.5", curved,1080p @ 165Hz monitor with HDMI/VGA input only, so I'm using my RTX 5080's only HDMI port. What kind of problem is this? Before the new Nvidia Driver update came out like a day ago (which I clean-installed), I was able to get a display, but even then, it wasn't the smoothest operation: when I started the PC, my monitor would turn on, show me "No HDMI input", put itself back into standby mode and would not wake up unless I press any button on the monitor itself. The most frustrating part of all this is that I get no splash screen when using dedicated GPU, and if I try to spam the BIOS key, my monitor won't even detect any signal/display, no matter how many times I restart it. So as of today, after the update, I can't even get a display for Windows, not to mention the BIOS/UEFI. When I plugged in my older system (with an RTX 3060Ti, I got a display with no problems at all). ChatGPT suggests it's some kind of a "handshake/firmware incompatibility"? When I took it to a PC service shop, the tech guy was able to instantly boot into BIOS. Should I be looking into new monitors? But even then, why does my monitor work with my older system? Current specs: Ryzen 7 9800X3D X870E AORUS ELITE WIFI7 rev 1.1. with the latest BIOS version F8a Kingston Fury 2x16GB DDR5 RAM X1 1TB MP700 Pro Gen5 SSD Gigabyte RTX 5080 Gaming OC Corsair RM850x (2024, 3.1/5.1 compatible) Monitor: VG328 (I think) from ASUS VG1B series, 1080p@165Hz (HDMI input only) OS: Windows 11 24H2

O
ovcoming
Member
229
10-05-2022, 01:30 AM
#2
It looks like your BIOS is attempting to send DP output, but it doesn’t recognize HDMI. Using some DP dummy connectors might help the BIOS understand there’s no output on those ports. Switching to an HDMI-to-DP adapter could also be a viable solution, just make sure you choose a reliable one. Cheap Chinese options often cause more issues. As long as it comes from a reputable brand with clear markings, it should work fine. Avoid buying unbranded items from places like AliExpress—they might lead to even bigger problems.
O
ovcoming
10-05-2022, 01:30 AM #2

It looks like your BIOS is attempting to send DP output, but it doesn’t recognize HDMI. Using some DP dummy connectors might help the BIOS understand there’s no output on those ports. Switching to an HDMI-to-DP adapter could also be a viable solution, just make sure you choose a reliable one. Cheap Chinese options often cause more issues. As long as it comes from a reputable brand with clear markings, it should work fine. Avoid buying unbranded items from places like AliExpress—they might lead to even bigger problems.

N
Ninjaaaa_FF
Member
51
10-17-2022, 11:56 AM
#3
This seems like a driver-related problem. Go back to the earlier version to check if it persists.
N
Ninjaaaa_FF
10-17-2022, 11:56 AM #3

This seems like a driver-related problem. Go back to the earlier version to check if it persists.

F
Fade_Koi
Junior Member
8
10-17-2022, 01:10 PM
#4
Possible causes include a driver problem or a faulty cable.
F
Fade_Koi
10-17-2022, 01:10 PM #4

Possible causes include a driver problem or a faulty cable.

T
timo_1892
Senior Member
715
10-18-2022, 10:12 AM
#5
set the monitor to 60 Hz before rebooting BIOS/UEFI—only outputs 60 Hz works. If it waits at 165 Hz, it misses the signal. Use a reliable HDMI 2.1 cable; budget options often fail during the UEFI handshake. In BIOS, adjust CSM settings—some ASUS VG panels resist pure UEFI GOP output. Consult ASUS support for a firmware update for your VG328, as they’ve released silent fixes for this issue. Attempting DP with an active adapter won’t help; the problem is a timing quirk, not a hardware failure.
T
timo_1892
10-18-2022, 10:12 AM #5

set the monitor to 60 Hz before rebooting BIOS/UEFI—only outputs 60 Hz works. If it waits at 165 Hz, it misses the signal. Use a reliable HDMI 2.1 cable; budget options often fail during the UEFI handshake. In BIOS, adjust CSM settings—some ASUS VG panels resist pure UEFI GOP output. Consult ASUS support for a firmware update for your VG328, as they’ve released silent fixes for this issue. Attempting DP with an active adapter won’t help; the problem is a timing quirk, not a hardware failure.

D
207
10-18-2022, 06:21 PM
#6
Thank you all. The issue turned out to be a monitor handshake or firmware mismatch, and using a DP to HDMI 4k adapter resolved the problem. Everything functions now (mostly), as the adapter lowered my monitor's refresh rate from 165 to 120. Still better than nothing, right?
D
Darling_Doctor
10-18-2022, 06:21 PM #6

Thank you all. The issue turned out to be a monitor handshake or firmware mismatch, and using a DP to HDMI 4k adapter resolved the problem. Everything functions now (mostly), as the adapter lowered my monitor's refresh rate from 165 to 120. Still better than nothing, right?

E
eruraion
Member
118
10-18-2022, 07:19 PM
#7
It seems like the signal drop from 165 to 120 is mainly due to the adapter's bandwidth limits, not your GPU or display. To maximize performance with the VG328, try using an active DP 1.4 → HDMI 2.0/2.1 adapter—cheaper models often cap at 120 Hz. See if ASUS has a firmware update for the panel to fix handshake issues; they’ve resolved similar problems before. As a temporary fix, set your monitor to 60 Hz before rebooting into BIOS, then switch back up in Windows. This helps maintain the UEFI handshake. Overall, it’s just a matter of bandwidth and connection settings. With the proper adapter or update, you should recover full 165 Hz and keep everything stable.
E
eruraion
10-18-2022, 07:19 PM #7

It seems like the signal drop from 165 to 120 is mainly due to the adapter's bandwidth limits, not your GPU or display. To maximize performance with the VG328, try using an active DP 1.4 → HDMI 2.0/2.1 adapter—cheaper models often cap at 120 Hz. See if ASUS has a firmware update for the panel to fix handshake issues; they’ve resolved similar problems before. As a temporary fix, set your monitor to 60 Hz before rebooting into BIOS, then switch back up in Windows. This helps maintain the UEFI handshake. Overall, it’s just a matter of bandwidth and connection settings. With the proper adapter or update, you should recover full 165 Hz and keep everything stable.