New build, no video and no beeps from the speaker
New build, no video and no beeps from the speaker
I was hoping since my personal PC was having the same issue that the new build was having, solving one would give me insight into solving the other. Alas, no such luck, but at least I'm not trying to type this up on my phone and can actually look at the parts I bought on Newegg.
Motherboard: ASUS PRIME B760M-A AX
CPU: Intel Core i5-12600K
GPU: ASUS Dual GeForce RTX 4060 Ti 16GB
SSD: Western Digital WD BLACK SN850 NVMe M.2 2280 500GB (Only storage for now)
Power Supply: SAMA 650W Power Supply 80 Plus Gold (First time I bought from them)
Heatsink: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 CPU Air Cooler
Ram: CORSAIR Vengeance 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin PC RAM DDR5 5200
Case: Thermaltake View 71 RGB
The situation is as follows. The system, as I understand it, is supposed to use the power LED on the case for diagnostic purposes. When I power it on, the light remains steady, and the fan LED's that came with the case come on as well. 2 out of 3 fans spin, the rear exhaust fan's LED lights up, but the fan doesn't spin, but the CPU cooler has a fan blowing directly on it, so I don't know if there is a sensor in the fan or something telling it not to spin. The fans on the heatsink spin. No sound has ever came out of the PC Speaker, no matter how I've hooked it up. I have not been able to get video out of the machine yet. I was going to attempt to install a BIOS update, but that requires navigating a menu seemingly, and without video out, I'm not sure how to do that. The LED's on my keyboard don't light up when plugged into any USB port either. In theory, I would say that it has posted, as the power LED would indicate that all was good. I have tried to get video from the video card, and through the onboard ports, both through HDMI and Display Port. I'm not really sure where to go, I've gone through the new build checklist, and have checked the ram in about each configuration I can imagine, which is a bit of a pain in the ass, because the Heatsink is directly over the ram chips. Any help in this matter would be appreciated.
SAMA offers only two levels of power supply. It’s barely functional and essentially worthless. I mean it in a way suitable for a simple home computer with basic internet use and graphics. Not suitable for your more advanced system with a good graphics card and top-tier hardware. Have you considered taking out the graphics card and using just the CPU’s integrated graphics via one of the motherboard video outputs? If not, I’d try that first, but I’m fully committed to suggesting a replacement with at least decent quality. That particular unit doesn’t meet expectations.
I’ve also never come across any system that relies on case LEDs for diagnostics. Typically, aftermarket motherboards use either a small speaker or LEDs directly on the board for diagnostics, or an LED display showing Q-codes. I’m unfamiliar with using case LEDs for anything beyond basic power-on checks and HDD status.
Additionally, I think it would help to clarify whether you’re referring to a “personal PC” versus a “new build.” You only provide details about one specific system and explain it in depth, which makes it hard to compare accurately. If we’re talking about similar setups, we’d need much more information for clarity.
I also have another post about the problem I encountered with my personal computer, which has now been fixed. The board I bought for my Asus PC lacks any LEDs, which surprised me too. My PC uses an ASUS board with LEDs, and it also employs a power LED for diagnostics—something I wasn't aware of before this issue arose. I might try replacing the power supply to see if that helps. The monitor is connected via the motherboard's video outputs, but I haven't installed a video card myself.
What is the precise model of the power supply in the alternative build, and what issue was identified in that alternative version?
Power source for current setup - CORSAIR TX-M Series TX750M CP-9020131-NA 750 W ATX12V v2.4 / EPS 2.92 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Semi-Modular Active PFC Power Supply
To resolve the issue on the other system, I removed the graphics card, reset the CMOS, and restarted it from the built-in video. That didn’t help this one. If you have another system available, I could try to salvage a power supply from it if needed.
The model of the PSU in that system is not specified, and the duration it has been in service is also unclear from the provided information.
I might be able to salvage the Seasonic G Series 650 SSR-650RM 650W 80+ Gold ATX12V. It was in service for three years before I assembled my wife's latest machine.
Well, those Seasonic 650 SSR-650RM G series units came out in 2013 so there's no telling how old that is. Most models only get manufactured for a few years before they are superseded by something newer, but in any case that was a pretty damn good unit when it was new. I'd probably at least TRY it. If you know the unit is good and it doesn't change the behavior then at least we can PROBABLY scratch the PSU off the list of likely suspects. So, there is no sensor, ever, telling any fan "not to spin". So you can forget about that idea. The fact that the fan isn't working is a tell. What it is telling, we don't know yet, but let's take a closer look. I would take a VERY close look at which header that is plugged into and make absolutely certain you didn't plug it in with it off by a pin in one direction or the other. It's very easy to do on some fan headers and depending on whether you have a three or four pin fan. If it IS in fact correctly plugged in, then I'd unplug it, and see if that makes any difference when you power on. The next thing I'd try is TRIPLE checking literally everything listed at the following link. Don't assume, "eh, I already checked that". Check it, again, make absolutely certain that each and every connection that is identified at the following link IS in fact plugged in AND that it is not only plugged in but also COMPLETELY seated because sometimes some of these connections are REALLY hard to seat even when you've done the same thing dozens of times before and never had difficulties. "No POST", "system won't boot", and "no video output" troubleshooting checklist "No POST", "system won't boot", and "no video output" troubleshooting checklist This checklist is a compilation of troubleshooting ideas from many forum members. It's very important to actually perform every step in the checklist if you want to effectively troubleshoot your problem. 1.Did you... forums. If nothing shakes out from the no post check points, then I'd suggest you at least TRY doing a Hard Reset, and do it EXACTLY as outlined. BIOS Hard Reset procedure Power off the unit, switch the PSU off and unplug the PSU cord from either the wall or the power supply. Remove the motherboard CMOS battery for about three to five minutes. In some cases it may be necessary to remove the graphics card to access the CMOS battery. During that five minutes while the CMOS battery is out of the motherboard, press the power button on the case, continuously, for 15-30 seconds, in order to deplete any residual charge that might be present in the CMOS circuit. After the five minutes is up, reinstall the CMOS battery making sure to insert it with the correct side up just as it came out. If you had to remove the graphics card you can now reinstall it, but remember to reconnect your power cables if there were any attached to it as well as your display cable. Now, plug the power supply cable back in, switch the PSU back on and power up the system. It should display the POST screen and the options to enter CMOS/BIOS setup. Enter the bios setup program and reconfigure the boot settings for either the Windows boot manager or for legacy systems, the drive your OS is installed on if necessary. Save settings and exit. If the system will POST and boot then you can move forward from there including going back into the bios and configuring any other custom settings you may need to configure such as Memory XMP, A-XMP or D.O.C.P profile settings, custom fan profile settings or other specific settings you may have previously had configured that were wiped out by resetting the CMOS. In some cases it may be necessary when you go into the BIOS after a reset, to load the Optimal default or Default values and then save settings, to actually get the hardware tables to reset in the boot manager. It is probably also worth mentioning that for anything that might require an attempt to DO a hard reset in the first place, IF the problem is related to a lack of video signal, it is a GOOD IDEA to try a different type of display as many systems will not work properly for some reason with displayport configurations. It is worth trying HDMI if you are having no display or lack of visual ability to enter the BIOS, or no signal messages. Trying a different monitor as well, if possible, is also a good idea if there is a lack of display. It happens. And if that doesn't change anything I'd remove the CPU cooler and check both the alignment of the installed CPU to make sure that is installed correctly with the alignment marks on the CPU and motherboard correctly lined up AND that there are no bent pins, not even one single pin that is slightly deviated from the normal lay of all the other pins, because this is often something that happens with casual builders, and sometimes even with some veteran builders from time to time. If that all looks good and nothing has come to light by this point, and assuming you don't have the graphics card installed by not plugged in, I'd say to look sideways at the motherboard.
While reviewing the checklist, I began unplugging and reattaching all components, observing that the CPU connector had 10 pins while the slot only had 8. After mentioning a known power supply issue, I revisited the reviews and saw they don’t ship the correct cords. I plan to return the power supply and use an alternative temporarily to see if it resolves the problem. I’ll keep you informed.
It's no issue at all. I'm happy you were successful in resolving it.