New build: Functional monitor, GPU, and PSU — no video output, but it powers on, no PCI power connection detected.
New build: Functional monitor, GPU, and PSU — no video output, but it powers on, no PCI power connection detected.
Long story with sections and details below, but the short version is this:
Three to four years ago I was assembling PCs. I currently possess four functional machines built in my home. This marks my first new construction in three to four years, and I don’t have a video output on a reliable monitor paired with a verified graphics card. The fans on the graphics card won’t even start up on this motherboard, though it functions perfectly in other towers. Anyone have any insight into what I overlooked?
Long Story:
I received an Intel Arc A750 as a gift from a friend or colleague. Earlier, I had an Nvidia GTX1070TI, so I integrated it into my previous setup—it worked—but it clearly struggled with the very old CPU (AMD FX-8350). The graphics card functioned, but it became evident that a newer CPU was necessary to achieve proper performance, requiring the "resizable Bar" or ReBar settings. I’m using a stable 800-watt power supply.
I believed I had thoroughly checked compatibility. The RAM speed is capped at 5600 MHz by the motherboard before overclocking is needed (required for a single stick of 32GB). The board supports the LGA1700 chipset and the CPU generation it uses, and the website confirms compatibility with the specific GPU.
I’m perplexed about the problem. This has never happened before when building PCs except when the graphics card was defective, which isn’t the case here since it worked in my old system. I chose a "KF" CPU because I assumed I wouldn’t need onboard video, as I haven’t used it in 11 years of PC building. Now I wonder if the extra $30 would have helped clarify the issue. Should I have opted for the K series instead?
What I attempted:
- Switched to a different reliable GPU—same outcome.
- Placed it in another PCI slot; the GPU still wouldn’t power on.
- Moved the RAM stick into various slots.
- Removed the M.2 and SATA III connectors.
- Double-checked that the risers are correctly positioned.
- Three risers lack a screw securing the motherboard—though I doubt this is the root cause, I hesitated to fully tighten it until I was sure.
- Reseated everything except the CPU.
What I haven’t tried:
- Re-seating the CPU.
- Applying fresh thermal paste (in case of spill).
- Verifying CPU orientation (the arrow on the CPU matches the motherboard’s arrow; no issues expected).
- Installing a different CPU fan (one wasn’t included, but I doubted an aftermarket one could be problematic).
Parts: New
Mother Board: ASUS Prime B760-PLUS Intel B760 (13th and 12th Gen) LGA1700 ATX
https://www.newegg.com/asus-prime-b760-p...6813119648
RAM: Patriot Viper Elite 5 32GB 288-Pin PC RAM DDR5 5600 (PC5 44800)
https://www.newegg.com/patriot-32gb/p/N82E16820225326
CPU: Intel Core i5-12600KF Desktop Processor 10 (6P+4E) Cores up to 4.9 GHz Unlocked LGA1700 600 Series Chipset 125W
https://www.newegg.com/p/3C6-008J-001G8
(12th Gen, for reference)
PSU: 800-watt ATX-JP800W
https://www.amazon.com/Apevia-ATX-JP800W...09DXM?th=1
GPU: Intel Arc A750 Limited Edition 8GB PCI Express 4.0 Graphics Card 21P02J00BA
https://www.newegg.com/intel-arc-a750-21...6814883002
You've found the reason to purchase the non F version of a processor.
But that's just a side note.
Are you connecting the 8 pin EPS CPU connector to the motherboard?
It offers additional power for the PCIe slots.
The issue lies with the 800w power supply unit, which may not be providing adequate power or stability, leading to potential performance issues or safety concerns.
Apevia has a history of delivering subpar results with computer systems over the past two decades.
In the best case, these units are limited to basic lower-tier applications.
In the worst scenario, they should be completely avoided due to their inability to provide consistent power.
The main concern isn't just the wattage, but the overall reliability and performance of the device.
Thank you for the reply!
This is an image of the Motherboard from the manual, I do not have power plugged into both #5 locations.
https://ibb.co/bBB4kQP
8 in the top left (that are labeled "CPU" on my power supply) and 24 in the right side. If there's another type of power connector that came out in the last 3-4 years on this motherboard that I do not know of, please do let me know.
Alright, thank you for educating me. I'll try putting in a different PSU, but the only other one I have that isn't Apevia, is 680 watts. Is that going to be enough to test ONLY booting to bios? I don't have the M.2 or sata connected, but I am pretty sure the GPU plus CPU and general motherboard draw will go over 680w.
For future reference, what are your trusted brands and why?
i wouldn't claim to have a list of completely trusted brands.
many leading manufacturers offer both excellent and risky models.
however, it's important to think about aspects such as warranty duration and coverage type.
these details help assess how much confidence the manufacturer has in the product and its commitment to protecting connected parts.
some say a 7-year warranty is sufficient, but i’d avoid anything less than 10 years.
choosing products that cover connected components in their warranty is another strong indicator of reliability.
when browsing, i usually compare units with online resources or discussions about power supply ratings.
generally, only the highest-rated models should be considered a solid beginning.
It's not about the wattage, it's the internal components that determine whether a PSU is good or bad. The warranty is also important. Reliable brands usually provide more than 10 years of coverage.
While this isn't an official recommendation list, it serves as a helpful reference:
https://cultists.network/140/psu-tier-list/
Seasonic and Corsair are solid choices (based on personal experience), though both offer cheaper and lower-quality alternatives. I've been using Seasonic for years. The current model is the Fractal Design Ion+ 2.
No single PSU is flawless. Experts often encounter issues even with top-tier products. However, extremely poor models are so defective they should be avoided entirely. They're inexpensive and most users aren't concerned as long as they meet the required wattage.
Edit - I should own up to my past mistakes. My PC experienced a loud, silvery-smelling smoke and tears.
The data plate indicates a maximum output of 698w at 12v, matching what modern processors and graphics cards utilize. This figure is likely measured at room temperature, not the lower temperatures found inside a case. The rating should remain consistent under steady conditions, avoiding the fluctuations seen in high-performance graphics cards. I searched for an official review but found nothing substantial. The feedback from previous buyers was mostly unsatisfactory. Looking deeper, the A750 has a power delivery of 225w. In comparison, the GTX1070 delivers around 150w. It’s possible your PSU struggles with the higher demand. Comparing this to a modern 850w PSU such as the Seasonic Focus GX850, which can provide up to 840w at 12v, you can see the difference.