F5F Stay Refreshed Hardware Desktop Need soldering tips to save my hero mouse

Need soldering tips to save my hero mouse

Need soldering tips to save my hero mouse

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AlaskaMeh
Member
60
01-11-2023, 07:42 AM
#1
I need assistance restoring the side-buttons board's connections to the mainboard. I placed the wires manually to ensure contact, and both buttons function now. There are three possible approaches: 1. Remove old solder and leftover pieces from the mainboard, trim plastic if needed, and reattach the cable as it was originally. 2. Simply apply solder directly on the connection point (caution: risk of overlapping wires). 3. Purchase a new side-buttons board from Ali Express if available. I’m considering advice from more experienced solders to decide between options 1 and 2. Both seem viable if I accidentally cross connections. Other details: My solder is leaded tin alloy, and I can safely remove tin from cables using vacuum or scraping tools. I can also separate individual wire groups if they become misaligned. The plastic casing around the cable is removable without damage. Past issues: One of the rings detached and I attempted to re-solder it, but the connection failed eventually. This matters because I value the original G Pro mouse design. I want a reliable hero sensor mouse with working buttons, so if this fails, replacing the switch board would be necessary.
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AlaskaMeh
01-11-2023, 07:42 AM #1

I need assistance restoring the side-buttons board's connections to the mainboard. I placed the wires manually to ensure contact, and both buttons function now. There are three possible approaches: 1. Remove old solder and leftover pieces from the mainboard, trim plastic if needed, and reattach the cable as it was originally. 2. Simply apply solder directly on the connection point (caution: risk of overlapping wires). 3. Purchase a new side-buttons board from Ali Express if available. I’m considering advice from more experienced solders to decide between options 1 and 2. Both seem viable if I accidentally cross connections. Other details: My solder is leaded tin alloy, and I can safely remove tin from cables using vacuum or scraping tools. I can also separate individual wire groups if they become misaligned. The plastic casing around the cable is removable without damage. Past issues: One of the rings detached and I attempted to re-solder it, but the connection failed eventually. This matters because I value the original G Pro mouse design. I want a reliable hero sensor mouse with working buttons, so if this fails, replacing the switch board would be necessary.

B
beichner
Senior Member
447
01-17-2023, 01:10 AM
#2
I typically start by applying solder to the pad, after which I bring the wires to heat and attach them to the pad.
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beichner
01-17-2023, 01:10 AM #2

I typically start by applying solder to the pad, after which I bring the wires to heat and attach them to the pad.

C
233
02-03-2023, 02:19 AM
#3
Because it's a cable made from just three wires, why not switch everything to three new ones? Taking out the old parts makes sense since you can melt and reuse the solder. Cutting the wires shorter is also possible if you have enough length left for the new setup. As for how those wires ended up broken, I’m not sure—it probably happened without much movement when using the mouse. Good luck!
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captainevan100
02-03-2023, 02:19 AM #3

Because it's a cable made from just three wires, why not switch everything to three new ones? Taking out the old parts makes sense since you can melt and reuse the solder. Cutting the wires shorter is also possible if you have enough length left for the new setup. As for how those wires ended up broken, I’m not sure—it probably happened without much movement when using the mouse. Good luck!

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DidiNasri
Junior Member
3
02-18-2023, 07:04 PM
#4
You're asking about the process you used and whether there are any drawbacks. It looks like you're considering a repair method involving soldering and cable management. The approach seems to focus on minimizing cable length, which could reduce stress points. However, you mentioned concerns about durability and potential failure points. Your caution about avoiding further damage shows careful thinking.
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DidiNasri
02-18-2023, 07:04 PM #4

You're asking about the process you used and whether there are any drawbacks. It looks like you're considering a repair method involving soldering and cable management. The approach seems to focus on minimizing cable length, which could reduce stress points. However, you mentioned concerns about durability and potential failure points. Your caution about avoiding further damage shows careful thinking.

I
Ipod984
Senior Member
707
02-18-2023, 08:19 PM
#5
They damaged themselves while adjusting the board to swap switches. I handle these parts carefully, but it seems my movements might have caused some wear over time. I noticed the front switch stopped responding and while attempting to repair its questionable connection, I found one of the three wires was faulty, then the middle wire broke too when trying to establish contact. I chose to cut the last wire because the tight area made it difficult (the white ribbon was almost covering everything).
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Ipod984
02-18-2023, 08:19 PM #5

They damaged themselves while adjusting the board to swap switches. I handle these parts carefully, but it seems my movements might have caused some wear over time. I noticed the front switch stopped responding and while attempting to repair its questionable connection, I found one of the three wires was faulty, then the middle wire broke too when trying to establish contact. I chose to cut the last wire because the tight area made it difficult (the white ribbon was almost covering everything).

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wizebana
Member
141
03-11-2023, 05:16 PM
#6
For those kinds of tasks I usually keep the opening sealed, ensuring no protrusions appear unexpectedly. Then secure both the PCB and the wires, and simply fasten everything onto top of the holes.
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wizebana
03-11-2023, 05:16 PM #6

For those kinds of tasks I usually keep the opening sealed, ensuring no protrusions appear unexpectedly. Then secure both the PCB and the wires, and simply fasten everything onto top of the holes.

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Asianbv
Member
61
03-18-2023, 08:22 PM
#7
This might function, though in practice it tends to get quite hot.
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Asianbv
03-18-2023, 08:22 PM #7

This might function, though in practice it tends to get quite hot.

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_AlphaZ_
Junior Member
3
03-24-2023, 12:59 AM
#8
It seems you might have missed some details. If the component is on the opposite side, you could likely remove the PCB, insert the cable through the holes, and then solder it back.
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_AlphaZ_
03-24-2023, 12:59 AM #8

It seems you might have missed some details. If the component is on the opposite side, you could likely remove the PCB, insert the cable through the holes, and then solder it back.

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MySecretBall
Junior Member
12
03-24-2023, 04:04 AM
#9
I attempted something similar but struggled. The wires are much larger than the tiny amount of tin, making it hard to insert them as expected. Perhaps adding more tin would help, though I'm feeling discouraged. Thanks for your feedback. I'll wait for someone less experienced to come by and help with the hands-on work.
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MySecretBall
03-24-2023, 04:04 AM #9

I attempted something similar but struggled. The wires are much larger than the tiny amount of tin, making it hard to insert them as expected. Perhaps adding more tin would help, though I'm feeling discouraged. Thanks for your feedback. I'll wait for someone less experienced to come by and help with the hands-on work.

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xAPPLExPIEx
Senior Member
657
03-24-2023, 09:47 AM
#10
In the meantime, I'll attempt this: Initially, I just applied solder to the board. Edit: wow, it was really simple! I ended up soldering on the incorrect side, but I'm hopeful it will still work. The key was soldering both the wires and the connection port together before the final melt.
X
xAPPLExPIEx
03-24-2023, 09:47 AM #10

In the meantime, I'll attempt this: Initially, I just applied solder to the board. Edit: wow, it was really simple! I ended up soldering on the incorrect side, but I'm hopeful it will still work. The key was soldering both the wires and the connection port together before the final melt.

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