need Q6600 overclocking advise
need Q6600 overclocking advise
Hello everyone
Here are the details of my PC specifications:
Power supply: HEC 350W
CPU: Q6600 G0 95w TDP at stock voltage 1.2875V
Graphics card: 75w~80w TDP, drawing power from the mainboard
Mainboard: Gigabyte EP43-DS3L
Memory: 8(2x4)GB DDR2 bus at 1.88V
Storage: Two HDDs – one WD Blue 7200RPM SATA and one WD Green 5400RPM SATA
Cooling: One 120m fan drawing power from the mainboard
I use an Intel stock cooler in a cool room.
I have several questions I need clarified before deciding whether to overclock my system or not, based on my power supply:
1. What is the precise total power usage of my setup when running at full load without overclocking?
2. I estimate that under normal conditions (CPU + GPU + other parts) the consumption is around 95+80+100 = 275 watts. Is this calculation correct? Although I believe 100 watts for other components might be too high, I think it should be about 65 to 75 watts or less?
3. What is the exact power draw of my Q6600 CPU at full load with overclocking at different voltages (3.00, 3.2, 3.4, 3.6)?
4. Why does overclocking work on Windows 7SP1 but fails on the Windows Anniversary build during gaming?
5. Lastly, is it safe to overclock this HEC 350W power supply? Could it damage my graphics card or hard drives? Or should I avoid overclocking even though I think the PSU is good?
Notes:
I have already tried overclocking at maximum CPU and GPU load (100%) under both stock and boost voltages. On both @3.0 and @3.2 at 1.2875V, it works well on Windows 7 with smooth gaming and stable CPU temps. @3.0 at the same voltage also boots Windows 10 and supports ROTR games with good performance. @3.2 boots to Windows 10 but crashes during ROTR under load (even though same setting works on Windows 7). @3.4 and possibly @3.6 run well on Auto Volt in BIOS at 1.364V, though CPU temps remain high due to the higher voltage.
I prefer not using online calculators for power consumption as they aren't very accurate, and I want an exact figure. Also, I’m curious if there’s an aging factor for the PSU that should be considered in the calculation, even though I’ve read it’s not necessary.
Thank you in advance for your help. I’m still a beginner and appreciate your advice.
Approximately 300W when under heavy load, considering an average of 205W without a GPU, which could push you over the limit. This might be due to your CPU, temperature, or motherboard voltage stability, but the power supply unit is likely the main issue for overclocking attempts.
References:
- http://www.anandtech.com/show/2303/2?_ga...1491753516
- 205W + 70W GPU estimate + 25W others (HDD etc)
(Note: TDP isn't a direct measure of power consumption; an "80W TDP" might actually be around 60W. It refers to the Thermal Design Point, which usually indicates maximum capacity, though values can vary.)
Approximately 300W when under heavy load, considering an average of 205W without a GPU, which could push you over the limit—this might be due to CPU issues, temperature, or voltage stability. The power supply unit is likely the main concern for successful overclocking.
Estimates suggest around 205W plus 70W from the GPU plus about 25W for other components like the HDD. Keep in mind that TDP doesn't always reflect actual power usage; it's often a guideline for maximum capacity, not precise watts. Several similar components are grouped under the same TDP to simplify design aspects such as motherboard power delivery or cooler selection.
It’s challenging to pin down exact numbers. Voltage plays a crucial role, and frequency usually doesn’t significantly affect consumption. Not increasing voltage could risk system instability. Each CPU behaves differently, but a rough guess is an additional 40W might be needed if you raise the voltage to 3.0GHz. You can search online for power usage at various voltages (ignoring frequency) but I won’t dig deeper.
Your power supply and cooler are probably not enough for an overclock. A 350W PSU might only deliver around 320W, which could already be too high.
It’s hard to say definitively. You’re possibly on the edge of functionality, so W10 might be consuming more power than expected.
Summary:
If you intend to overclock, consider these steps:
a) Invest in a decent 450W PSU (refer to PCPartPicker),
b) Upgrade your CPU cooler—especially if your motherboard uses a 3-pin fan, which is voltage-controlled. Avoid 4-pin or PWM fans unless necessary. This could cost around $30 USD for a solid option.
c) Use motherboard software to fine-tune the CPU fan settings, balancing noise and cooling, and check the recommended maximum temperature for your CPU.
The motherboard page is available at the provided URL. The socket type is LGA775, suitable for a CPU cooler. It's recommended to update the BIOS to the latest version if it isn't F3 or newer; this can be accessed during boot using "DEL". Checking the BIOS downloads section will clarify the updates available. BIOS version F3 improves overclocking support, but flashing it may risk damaging the board, so proceed cautiously unless you have F3 or higher.
The EasyTune 6 tool is a Windows-based overclocking utility that can be used instead of direct BIOS changes. While it's possible to use BIOS settings, they are generally more reliable if you're comfortable with them.
No fan control software was found on the motherboard site. The BIOS likely offers some modification options, though alternatives like SPEEDFAN exist but may have usability issues or inaccurate readings.
If you don't intend to replace the CPU cooler, consider updating it after five years, as some Intel stock coolers can be difficult to remove without damaging parts. I previously tried the Cryorig H7 but found it incompatible with this socket. Please verify case, memory, CPU_FAN (3 or 4-pin), and socket support using the manufacturer's site.
Manual link:
http://download.gigabyte.us/FileList/Manual/motherboard
_manual_ga-ep43-(d)s3l®_e.pdf
Located the manual here in case you require it. The website didn’t cover every language, so I had to fill in all the missing sections.
Additional notes:
a) You might want to check the REALTEK.TW site for the latest audio software. If W10 installs Realtek drivers, that should work; otherwise, visit the site directly to find updated options.
b) Some SSDs could encounter issues with older motherboards.
c) I question the relevance of the "download" tool these days, particularly if you're using W10 (which typically installs most required drivers).
d) In the BIOS, there’s a fan control area. Ensure it’s turned ON; otherwise, the CPU fan will spin at full speed. If you use any Windows fan utilities, they may override the BIOS settings.
It seems the fan software is included in the Easy Tune 6 program I mentioned (available from W8 64-bit). A sample profile could be 40% maximum RPM at 50°C up to 100% at 80°C, though the ideal setting varies based on CPU idle and load temperatures, as well as the recommended max CPU temperature.
Thank you very much for your excellent and professional response, and for taking the time to reply. I really appreciate it and have gained a lot of valuable information from it.
I checked my PSU 12-volt rail and found it only supports up to 276 watts.
I believe my PSU load could be around 223W, 245W, or even 296W.
I think overclocking to 3 GHz without increasing the voltage would add an extra 24 watts to the load.
After trying that, I realized it’s unsafe or risky to overclock.