Need assistance setting up a new home network?
Need assistance setting up a new home network?
I need assistance completely updating my network setup here. It’s outdated and not properly configured.
In the UK, my ISP (EE) gave me a router; they said if it isn’t the main hub, speeds drop and BT can monitor and adjust them. I’m not sure if that’s true, but it’s always happened for me.
After that, I’d like to make changes. Right now, internet is in the garage with an old mesh system that extends Wi-Fi throughout the house, but I have Ethernet connections from every room to the garage via wired internet. I don’t have a network switch and would appreciate advice on what to buy.
I also need guidance on whether I should purchase a new router and which model. I suspect I’ll need to connect it as a slave to the EE router to avoid speed limits. Lastly, I want all the mesh hubs to be wired into the existing network switch, which already has Ethernet built in.
Please mention the current speeds too—about 1gbps from a fibre connection.
Any suggestions for user setups would be very helpful.
Thanks a lot.
Use wired connectivity as much as possible.
If you purchase your own router be sure to verify with your ISP that they will and do support that make and model router. Even though renting the ISP's modem and/or router may cost more they cannot blame your equipment if there are problems. That is a trade-off that may need to be decided.
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The network connections should be very similar to the following line diagram:
Connection path being the following line diagram where ----> represents an Ethernet cable:
ISP === (coax, DSL, fiber) ===> Modem ---->[WAN Port] Router [LAN Port] ----> [LAN Ports] Wired Network devices (one device possibly being the switch).
And Router ~~~~~ >Wireless devices.
Depending on the make and model router there may be enough LAN ports (normally 4) to serve the Ethernet cable runs already in place. If there are not enough router ports then you would use a simple unmanaged switch. Very inexpensive and readily available.
Router [LAN port] --->[LAN Port] Switch [Other switch LAN Ports] -----> cable runs to other network devices.
Feel free copy, paste, and edit the above line diagrams to match your network. Post according showing all network devices and connections. Ensure that there are not network loops involved or created.
Loop being Device A connected to Device B connected to Device C connected to Device D connected to Device A again. Any sort of loops, for that matter, should not be present. Power, video, audio....
Verify that all network cables are Cat 5e or Cat 6a, pure copper, round (UTP), 22-24 AWG. No aluminum, not flat, not thin conductor.
You will find that having a network sketch or diagram of any sort will prove helpful in keeping the "big picture" in view.
How many lan ports does the ISP router possess?
How many Ethernet ports are required for optimal performance?
If not all need to be active, remote locations can be connected directly.
A single small switch suffices if you don’t require full activation.
Most affordable options are under $20 for an 8-port switch, with some budget brands available under $10.
With four ports, an eight-port switch provides ten total connections—seven on the router and three on the switch.
One connection is wasted linking them together.
For remote areas, consider a basic Wi-Fi router to serve as an access point.
I wouldn’t invest in high-end models; older Wi-Fi 5 (802.11ac) devices in the $50 range will suffice, offering speeds of 300mbps or more.
Most portable gadgets handle this bandwidth easily, and you can use Ethernet in remote rooms instead.
This approach offers better stability compared to a standalone AP.
You can utilize extra Ethernet ports in the remote space as a small switch for additional devices.
Connecting everything via wired cables to the remote locations is the ideal setup.
So I think I'm on the right track. I've spoken with my ISP and confirmed there are fully supported routers available. I'm planning to use the TP-Link Archer BE550, which is one of the more affordable options on the list and I've used TP-Link before without any problems.
I'll stick with the existing Ethernet cable and set up a power supply from the router back to the garage, then into a network switch—specifically the TP-Link LS108GP. It's cost-effective and also supports PoE, which is needed for the access points I'm planning to use.
For the access points, I'm going with the TP-Link EAP615 wall-mounted model. It's discreet, affordable, and still offers Wi-Fi 6. I've sketched a quick diagram if anyone wants to review my setup and confirm I'm heading in the right direction.
Thanks!
The nice diagram you have is helpful. What factors are making the need for six APs in the garage arise? You might not require that many APs at all. I also recommend downloading the relevant User Guides and Manuals for each network device. Take note of every detail, including fine print and restrictions. Visit the manufacturer's website to explore FAQs and customer service discussions—this can save you time and effort later. Once you refresh your diagram with more specifics like device names, models, MAC addresses, and static IPs, the network plan should be updated accordingly. This will help maintain an accurate overview.
I have not looked at pricing for AP lately but do not get conned by marketing guys.
There is so much stuff being sold that is outright deceptive. You have wifi7 router for example that are "dual" band so they do not support the key feature of running on 6ghz that makes them faster.
The AP you are looking at also are just pretending they are wifi6. They only support 80mhz radio bands ....just like wifi5. The key thing that makes wifi6 faster is the 160mhz radio bands. Problem is there are massive issues avoiding other transmissions...like weather radar. Many/most end device also only support 80mhz for this same reason. So even if you get a wifi6 160mhz router most end devices will still use 80.
I do not know the pricing on this stuff. Unlike video cards wifi technology still is dropping in price when the newer tech comes out. Maybe wifi6 is as cheap or cheaper than wifi5 and it doesn't really matter then.
Wifi6e that also runs on the 6ghz band has dropped in price a lot since wifi7 has come out. Wifi6e if you have end clients that can use it is significantly faster because it can really use the 160mhz wide channels and there are multiple so neighbors do not stomp on each other....at least until everyone starts using wifi7 which uses 320mhz radio blocks.
Hey,
I think my diagram might have led to a bit of misunderstanding. In reality, there won’t be 6 APs in the garage anymore—they’re just where the cat 6 cables currently run. I planned to use them as much as possible and take advantage of that setup for the switch.
Actually, the 6 APs will be scattered throughout the house. I’m not entirely sure if this is essential, but I live in an older home that’s been renovated. The walls are thick, reinforced with insulation and plasterboard added during the renovation. Signal quality is poor here, which complicates things for some smart devices we’ve installed.
My aim is to get strong, consistent signal throughout every room while balancing speed. Right now, we pay around 1GB for downloads and about 200MB for uploads, but when wired, we get more than that. I really want the best wireless speeds in each area, which is another reason I need multiple APs.
I’m planning to research this weekend, checking APs and routers to confirm compatibility. EE, our ISP, also provides TV over the internet. I’ve noticed some users complain about streaming issues when not using the router, so I’ll need to verify that setup works for me.
Thanks again for your support.
I’ll take another review of the specs this evening. For instance, the router was chosen only after confirming its compatibility with my ISP. The Access Points received partial approval since they’re compact, which should keep them unnoticeable. I’m considering checking eBay to find some used alternatives if needed. I aim to stay within a budget of no more than £700, and I’ve already got the advantage that all my cables are pre-installed, so it shouldn’t add to the cost.
How many individuals/devices are expected to access the internet concurrently? What concerns do you have about your current setup being outdated, slow, or insufficient for your requirements? A 4K video stream only needs 30Mbps per person/device, and your 1Gbps connection could handle more than 30 streams at once.
Diagram:
Not an issue: just modify the AP settings to show specific locations inside the house.
"Living Room AP", "Master Bedroom AP", etc. It’s fine to set switch port numbers and confirm that each cable from the garage switch ends with a room wall jack to support the AP.
Prepare the IP addresses ahead of time. It’s simple to miss something or make mistakes when working on the spot.
If you have printed floor plans, duplicate them so you can map or record cable paths from the garage to the target rooms. Adjust and update the copies as needed. Clearly label everything. You probably need several copies...
Examine the cabling as much as possible. Also check the network wall jacks. Don’t forget about the requirement for an electrical wall outlet.
In each room, try temporary AP setups before committing to permanent installations across the whole network.
Having a structured approach (and being ready to adapt) will be worthwhile given the extra time and effort involved.