Need assistance identifying the origin of persistent drops.
Need assistance identifying the origin of persistent drops.
Hello,
Here’s a summary of the events and actions I’ve taken up to now (the system specifications are listed at the bottom):
Before this week, everything functioned well after I built this box about two years ago. Over the past month, I’ve been working extensively with Blender for sculpting, encountering some crashes. However, a Windows memory test revealed no problems, leading me to believe my computer was testing its limits.
On Tuesday morning, my PC became completely unresponsive at the login screen. Because I didn’t lock the screen on Monday night, I suspect it restarted overnight—likely due to a Windows update.
I pressed the restart button to bring Windows back online. It transitioned to an Aorus logo screen and asked me to press any key to skip the disk check. The countdown lasted a few seconds before the system froze. After another restart, it moved to a Windows repair screen and remained unresponsive.
I repeated the process several times, each time getting back to the same issue after entering BIOS settings. My first assumption was faulty RAM, so I replaced it with RAM from another device. The behavior stayed consistent—same performance issues. I then created a Windows installation media drive and booted into it to attempt repairs. It generally worked until it tried to modify my system, at which point it would stop responding immediately.
To try a fix, I replaced the SSD with a new Samsung one and swapped the OS drive. Still, the installation hung when attempting to install Windows on the new drive.
I relocated the SATA cable for the drive to a different port. At this stage, I could run the installer without hanging until it needed a reboot. However, each reboot resulted in the same error: "Windows could not prepare the computer to boot into the next phase of installation."
I tried another installation media, but the same issue persisted. A search suggested removing other drives might help. So, I removed my two M.2 data drives and reconnected the graphics card during removal. After rebooting, I experienced a hang again.
On the second attempt, after the first reboot, I managed to complete the installation process but then got stuck immediately afterward—after the initial restart, it returned to the beginning of the installer and froze during the next step (the first part after a Windows 11 reboot).
Reflecting on what might have changed since the system was stable, I tried re-seating the graphics card in case it was loose. That didn’t resolve the problem. Now, the hangs are recurring, preventing me from reaching the "check partitions" stage of the installer.
I also updated my BIOS to rule out any hardware-related bugs, but the issue persists quickly after a reboot.
Sometimes the system hangs when launching the installer or when navigating to the "select your keyboard" screen (normally after a restart). Within 2–3 minutes of troubleshooting, it freezes again.
Any suggestions on how to diagnose or fix this? Could it be a motherboard issue or something else?
Computer specs:
- Motherboard: Gigabyte Aorus x570 master
- CPU: Ryzen 9 5950x
- GPU: RTX 3080ti
- SSD (current): Samsung 870 1tb
- RAM: 64GB (4x16GB). Brand unknown, not open. Previously had 4x32 Corsair RAM.
- Power supply: Corsair HX1200
- OS: Windows 11
Feel free to ask if you need more details! I’m a bit concerned about my hardware setup right now.
How many years has that power supply been operating? Have you tested connecting USB devices such as a keyboard and mouse to various ports or even removing them completely to check if the system still functions at some point? If you can, I would attempt to use any other compatible graphics card, no matter how basic, if you have access to one. Please borrow or take one to replace it so you can rule out that as the cause of the issue.
The power supply was installed in April 2022 when I built the machine. (Most parts were made at that time). I hope it will last more than two years, correct?
I've replaced the mouse and moved the mouse and keyboard to different USB ports.
I have an RTX 2080 on the kids' computer. I plan to use it to rule out the GPU as the cause of the problem later.
Yes, and this power supply appears quite strong, making it unlikely to be connected to the device. However, it could still be relevant if it were older than five years or if it was a low-cost model.
Please inform me once you have tested the alternative graphics card, remembering that in certain situations, especially when problems arise, a BIOS hard reset might be necessary. This ensures the hardware tables are refreshed and the card is correctly recognized.
BIOS Hard Reset steps
Turn off the device, switch off the power supply unit, and detach the PSU cable from the wall or supply.
Take out the motherboard's CMOS battery for roughly three to five minutes. In some instances, you might need to remove the graphics card to access it.
While the battery is removed, keep pressing the power button on the case continuously for 15-30 seconds to drain any remaining charge in the CMOS circuit. Once the time is up, reinsert the battery carefully, making sure it faces the correct direction.
If you had to remove the graphics card, you can now reinstall it, but be sure to reconnect all power cables and your display cable as well.
Reconnect the PSU power cable, turn the unit back on, and restart the system. It should show the POST screen with options for CMOS/BIOS configuration. Enter the BIOS setup program and adjust boot settings for Windows or legacy systems, updating the drive where your operating system is installed if needed.
Save your changes and exit. If the system successfully boots, proceed further by returning to the BIOS and setting up any additional configurations such as Memory XMP, A-XMP, D.O.C.P profiles, fan settings, or other custom parameters that may have been lost during the reset.
In certain scenarios, after resetting the CMOS, it might be necessary to load default or optimal values in the BIOS to ensure hardware tables reset properly in the boot manager.
It’s also important to note that if the issue stems from a missing video signal, consider trying a different display type—especially HDMI, which is often more reliable for accessing BIOS settings. If you experience no display or visual issues, testing another monitor can be beneficial.
Sometimes switching to an alternative monitor is advisable when a display problem occurs.
Swapped the 2080 in place of the 3080ti, reset the CMOS (used the button on the motherboard), and set up automatic defaults for the BIOS. It froze after about 30 seconds during startup. The motherboard’s 7-segment display was showing "9E," which I wasn’t sure was its original message a week ago. I checked the manual, but it only mentioned it as reserved. I didn’t search extensively on the internet for this model. It seems unlikely the GPU is causing the issue. The power supply also appears less likely since the 2080 consumes significantly less power than the 3080ti, though it’s still possible. I’m running low on replacement parts—I haven’t changed the PSU, motherboard, or CPU. The PSU is the cheapest option, but it feels like the most probable cause. CPU and motherboard are both costly and tricky to replace... (I’m not a hardware expert; my background is mostly in software). Thanks for your help and support! I really appreciate it, especially since half my computer’s parts are scattered around my home office.
I would examine the CPU pins and socket. If nothing seems off, I’d suspect a problem with the motherboard. If a new motherboard doesn’t fix the issues, you’ve got a failing CPU—definitely a rare case. The power supply is unlikely to be the cause. When PSUs fail, a PC shuts down instantly without any delay. Another possibility is a loose standoff screw that has been pushing into the motherboard over time, leading to shorts or physical damage. Such a screw would likely be in an area where the motherboard lacks a screw hole for attachment. Diagnosing the motherboard and CPU first makes sense, as these are the most probable culprits after checking everything else.
It makes sense. After everything, the motherboard seems like the most probable cause. I was just hoping it could be something cheaper!
Thanks a lot for your assistance!
I’d have to concur that adding a few more questions wouldn’t be a bad idea. Initially, if this device was assembled two years ago, your motherboard should still be covered under warranty. Warranty periods for motherboards typically last around three years. I wouldn’t purchase another board unless you’re able to get it replaced at no cost, except perhaps if the delay causes issues and you end up needing a different board—then you’d send it back for replacement so you have a backup. This would be useful for future troubleshooting or in case one of them fails over time.
I’d definitely inspect the CPU for bent pins. Yes, I understand it was functioning well for a while, but seeing a system with bent or poorly bent pins isn’t uncommon. Problems usually appear after some wear—like vibrations, moving the case, or simply the gradual buildup of heat from the cooler. This isn’t typical, but it has happened several times.
Regarding memory, Ryzen is quite sensitive to changes. Have you made any adjustments to the hardware, BIOS version, or settings around the time these issues started? Even minor tweaks can sometimes trigger problems if the system decides to alter its configuration.
Does this machine continue to run without starting up into Windows? If so, when entering BIOS, does it still freeze or hang?
I reached out to Gigabyte earlier today to initiate a process for replacing the motherboard under warranty. I haven't received a response yet, but I'm hoping they can assist me.
I haven't inspected the CPU for bent pins, so I'll proceed with that check. I didn't want to risk damaging it, but it's a quick way to verify.
I haven't made any hardware modifications recently before the issue appeared. About a week or two prior, I ran a Windows memory test, and aside from that, I think a Windows update might have triggered the problem at first. Most of my BIOS settings were set to automatic defaults. I only entered the BIOS when trying to adjust the boot order or view certain options.
The machine doesn't freeze while in BIOS; it only freezes after exiting the BIOS, such as when connecting a USB drive or booting from the OS drive. I've used several bootable USB drives and different operating system partitions so far.
All the memory appears to be Corsair memory. The original is a Corsair Vengeance RGB, while the smaller one is a regular Corsair Vengeance. I haven't tested any individual DIMMs yet, but I plan to try tonight. I wasn't aware there was a specific slot for it, so I'll ensure that spot when I test.
I think the RAM was purchased in two-packs, with each set of four bought together in the same order. The larger one was a gift from Corsair, so I'm not sure how it was listed, but everything came together as intended.
Thank you very much for your support and guidance. I've gained a lot of knowledge through this process, even if it wasn't the most enjoyable way to learn. (It was much more enjoyable learning about hardware when I built this machine two years ago!) I hope some of the tests you recommended will provide more clarity so I can resolve this issue soon!