Many problems after setting up the new motherboard, CPU, and RAM?
Many problems after setting up the new motherboard, CPU, and RAM?
I no longer require assistance; I've installed a new SSD and performed a fresh Windows installation. Everything is functioning smoothly now.
Recent upgrades to key components of my PC have caused some bothersome problems. Previously, everything operated without issues. Occasionally, when using the mouse and keyboard—especially during gaming—they become unresponsive. The screen may freeze briefly, after which previously pressed buttons remain held until re-pressed, and the mouse moves erratically. During restarts, my keyboard and/or mouse disconnect, requiring me to unplug and plug them back in to restore functionality. The mouse will power on but not respond, and the keyboard will shut off after being on for a short time. I also have a Tourbox connected via USB, which experiences similar issues at times, sometimes stopping completely and needing re-plugging to work again.
I've replaced my RAM with new, different brand modules and obtained a replacement motherboard from Asus under warranty. I've attempted driver updates and temperature checks while gaming, but no abnormalities were detected. I've experimented with various keyboards and mice, using them in different USB ports, yet nothing resolves the problems.
Perhaps unrelated, but just in case it's connected, while playing Overwatch, the game crashes unexpectedly during matches. This issue stands out among all the others I've encountered.
Welcome to the forums, newcomer!
Did you reinstall the OS after the parts upgrade/swap? If not, that's the root of your issue.
Motherboard- Asus Tuf Gaming B650-E Wifi
Ram-Corsair Vengeance 32GB DDR5-6000 CL36
CPU- Ryzen 7 7800X3D
GPU-Radeon RX 7800 XT (Just in case it matters. I got this after these issues happened, I had a 3060ti when I replaced the other components)
When posting a thread of troubleshooting nature, it's customary to include your full system's specs. Please list the specs to your build like so:
CPU:
CPU cooler:
Motherboard:
Ram:
SSD/HDD:
GPU:
PSU:
Chassis:
OS:
Monitor:
include the age of the PSU apart from it's make and model. BIOS version for your motherboard at this moment of time.
Moved thread from Components section to Systems section.
I needed to switch from Windows 10 to 11, would that be considered a reinstall?
Are you running your RAM at XMP/EXPO/DOCP 6000MT/s or at the JEDEC default of 4800MT/s?
If you're overclocking your RAM, disable DOCP (Asus BIOS) and check stability at 4800MT/s.
I recommend booting the machine from a USB flash drive containing MemTest86 and leave it running for at least one complete pass (2 to 4 hours). Repeat a full MemTest86 test scan at each RAM speed you set in the BIOS, e.g. at 4800MT/s and 6000Mt/s. Aim for zero errors in MemTest86. Even one error means your RAM is not stable.
https://www.memtest86.com/
If 6000MT/s is unstable in MemTest86, learn how to manually overclock RAM and try 5200MT/s, 5400MT/s, 5600MT/s, 5800MT/s, until you start to get errors in MemTest86. Then reduce the speed by at least 200MT/s to return a stable setting. Slower stable memory is far more important than flaky high speed memory settings.
According to CPU World, the 7800X3D is "guaranteed" up to 5200MT/s. You may simply be running your CPU's Integrated Memeory Controller channels too fast if you're using 6000MT/s. There's an art to overclocking RAM and automatic XMP settings don't always work.
https://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/Zen/AMD-Ryzen 7 7800X3D.html
Memory controller
Memory channels (total): 2
Supported memory: DDR5-5200
ECC supported: Yes
If you upgraded from Windows 10 to 11 on a drive connected to the new motherboard, you should be OK.
If you upgraded from 10 to 11 on a drive connected to the old motherboard, then moved the drive to the new motherboard, this can cause problems.
Some people (including myself) get lazy and transfer old Windows SSDs to different motherboards. Windows may seem to work fine in the new system, but wierd things can happen because you failed to observe "best practice"". On one of my systems, things ran incredibly slowly, until I reinstalled Windows properly from scratch.
It takes me 15 to 20 minutes to install Windows on an SSD, plus several hours to tweak settings and install all my favourite programs. Total time 4 to 5 hours. Contrast this with 60 seconds to plug an existing Windows drive into a new system and you can see why some people take a chance.
If you have any doubts, reinstall Windows 11 from scratch, e.g. on a spare drive (even a 120GB SATA SSD will do as a test). Once you've sorted things out, you can wipe your main boot drive (M.2 NVMe?) and reinstall Windows.
It's often best to "nuke it from orbit" (Aliens quotation) by wiping the drive and performing a clean install (no old data or settings retained). Backup any important files elsewhere if necessary.
Make sure any other hard disks and SSDs are physically disconnected during Windows installation. This is to ensure all necessary hidden and visible partitions created by Windows are written to the correct (boot) drive only.
You can reconnect any other drives, after booting into the new Windows Desktop for the first time.
Whilst fault finding, unplug all external hardware apart from the essentials (mouse, keyboard, monitor). Get the basic system working first, then add peripherals.
I haven't overclocked anything, so it's whatever the default setting is. I might attempt an Auto Overclock using AMD Adrenaline because I'm not familiar enough with it to do it safely on my own.
After resetting my PC and reinstalling Windows a few days ago, there were no noticeable improvements.
Also, my operating system is running on an HDD that hasn't been upgraded since my first installation nearly ten years ago. I intend to upgrade soon and move all files to a new SSD, which will help eliminate the old drive.
If your system remains unstable while operating at "stock" frequencies, I recommend against attempting overclocking. Doing so could further complicate the situation. I would suggest a thorough inspection, particularly checking whether your RAM is being overclocked. If the BIOS configuration isn't clear, consider using some diagnostic tools and examining the memory frequency readings.
For reference, you can visit:
https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html
https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html
Should your RAM be adhering to standard JEDEC specifications, you should observe a 2400MHz clock speed (for DDR this translates to 4800MT/s, which might appear as 4800MHz). A frequency of 3000MHz (or 6000MT/s) indicates overclocking. Disable the overclock if it is active.
Beyond the performance issues with hard drives—especially older ones that may have "bad blocks," "pending sectors," or corrupted files—it's worth noting that Windows will run significantly slower on such drives. If your hard drive is ten years old, it might be nearing the end of its lifespan.
Three potential actions you can consider:
- Run CHKDSK
- Execute DISM
- Perform SFC
For CHKDSK on drive C with the /F option, you can assess the hard disk for errors and attempt repairs.
https://www.howtogeek.com/1033/how-to-us...n-windows/
Running sfc /scannow via Command Prompt (with administrative privileges) followed by DISM should resolve most operating system issues.
https://woshub.com/dism-cleanup-image-restorehealth/
A reasonably priced 120GB SATA SSD costing around $15 can be used to install Windows temporarily, or as a backup. If you have the budget, investing in a 500GB or 1TB SATA SSD with DRAM cache would be more advantageous.
Generally, DRAMless SATA SSDs are approximately half the price of their DRAM-equipped counterparts. Adding a DRAM cache can enhance Windows performance, though it's not essential. If your motherboard includes an M.2 port, verify whether it supports SATA (slower) or NVMe (faster) interfaces.
Ram is operating just under 2400, around 2394/5.
The scan indicated an error in the drive, and I'm currently working on a fix. It's extremely slow, so I'll check again once it's resolved. It might have been smarter to do this at night instead of risking being locked out for 12 hours...
Regarding the SSD, I intend to purchase a 4tb 990 evo plus. The extra space would be useful anyway, it's better to have more than less.
The memory clock is around 2400MHz, which means the DDR speed is 4800MT/s and should remain stable with two DIMMs installed. You might consider overclocking the RAM at some point, but only after confirming everything else is functioning properly.
For a more detailed assessment, download a trial version of Hard Disk Sentinel and perform a non-destructive disk surface test. This will provide a map of the drive, highlighting any errors such as bad blocks. The results could either confirm a flawless disk or reveal significant issues. I recommend running these tests during the night. On a recent 6TB hard drive, this process may take over ten hours if successful.
For a smaller 2TB Seagate ST2000DM08-2FR102, expect around three to four hours. If major problems are detected, the scan will stop abruptly, and you might need to halt the test entirely. This could extend the duration significantly.
https://www.hdsentinel.com/help/en/61_surfacetest.html
This indicates a healthy disk, suitable for both hard drives and SSDs.
If you notice several red blocks, it’s wise to back up your data immediately. Dark green blocks suggest some sectors are harder to read but still acceptable temporarily.
If this occurs, ensure all critical files are saved elsewhere on another physical drive or USB drive. Archive any remaining files and dispose of the drive at a recycling center after breaking it with a sledgehammer to avoid data recovery attempts.
Good luck.
FYI: a reset and a complete wipe plus reinstall are completely different.