Looking to buy a router for your home internet setup?
Looking to buy a router for your home internet setup?
I’m gathering information about network equipment for your home setup. The system was installed in 1996, so you’re currently using older technology like powerline and wireless connections, which are slow. You’re considering installing a 12 or 16-port switch in the master closet, connected to a larger patch panel that will eventually link to RJ45 ports throughout the house. I’m unsure what specifications to look for, so I’ve done some research and formed some ideas: you’ll likely need a router that connects directly to the internet and then links to a switch port. This keeps the switch protected from direct firewall access, so you won’t require advanced firewall or management features. You want a switch that operates smoothly without causing delays when many devices are active on it. Auto-negotiation is probably built-in on modern switches. You’re aiming for plug-and-play setup—no need to manually set up each new device. You don’t mind paying extra for managed switches, but you’re looking for something affordable. For security, you’re not overly worried. Regarding your questions: I believe the link you provided is a good starting point. Are there any overlooked features or options that could help? Would a 10 Gbps switch under $200 with similar capabilities and at least 12 ports meet your needs? You’re planning to upgrade to CAT 8 cable later, so now buying a 10 Gbps model makes sense for future-proofing.
the link you mentioned is a more affordable option, but I’m not familiar with 10Gbe switches. I need to check the Amazon page you shared.
To safeguard your network for the long term, opt for fibre-optics. Although more costly, it’s worth the investment. For budget-friendly alternatives, use Cat 6a cable—Cat 8 is usually unnecessary at home. If you have room in the storage area, install a server rack. It supports future upgrades such as NAS devices and other equipment. Racks are available in various dimensions; their standard size is U, measuring 44mm tall and 19 inches wide. Options range from 5U to 48U, with internal racks typically 1U to 4U, sometimes larger. When selecting a switch, consider used Enterprise models. I own Dell Powerconnect 2848 units, but other reputable brands like Cisco, Juniper, Ubiquity and HP are also good choices.
I’m taking the CAT 8 test because the expected run length requires it. The expense is about three times higher for cable versus 6a—300 dollars for 1000 ft versus 100 dollars for the same distance—which only adds a few hundred dollars. That’s a cost I’m willing to accept since it avoids running and terminating over 16 connections multiple times. A 10 Gig connection is more than enough for a home network, so the switch seems unnecessary. Also, ordering pre-cut cables would limit my ability to customize lengths and terminations. Maybe I can use the main cable for the trunk from router to switch, but we don’t have gigabit internet yet, so it won’t be useful for at least another two decades. None of my devices are set up for fiber, meaning I’d need adapters for all machines (five currently, not counting the switch), which is more expensive than affordable plug-and-play options that work with almost any computer. Probably not 10 Gb unless it’s limited by the device’s controller, but it should be straightforward. I’m planning a server rack in this closet and need a bracket similar to Craft Computers’ design for a non-19" form factor. Likely just a 2U unit, since I’m building a 8U storage/monitor setup for my workstation and daily driver. I don’t need extra space for ventilation, or it would overheat. A switch that handles this load is ideal—something robust enough for a full server or PoE device, not just a basic adapter. Also, none of these points matched exactly what you asked for in your last paragraph. Your note about the price is correct, but I’m okay with a modest increase to get it from Monoprice instead of Amazon, especially if it’s a better deal elsewhere.
I share your thoughts on the assumptions and the linked switch choice is solid. Based on the setup environment and your tolerance for failures, I’d recommend the GS116NA. It includes a lifetime warranty, one business day for replacement, and all solid-state parts—no electrolytic capacitors.... at roughly double the cost.
It's only a 1600 square foot house, so I won't "need" more than 16 ports. I was actually already planning on buying the 24 port version of the netgear switch, except I have no idea where I'd ever put all those ports. The shop is getting its own switch because I only want to run one cable out there, and that brings me to 14 ports. So I'm probably going to go with a 16 port switch, 24 port patch panel. I can then just patch in different ports, since some of the are going to be in places like "behind the dining room table" and "over the sink" and the odds of all of them getting used at once is low. But it's only 40$ extra for the 24 port one, so maybe I just get the 24 port one. Except there's exactly 0 gain besides not having to switch around patch cables, so maybe not. Idk. As for Cat8 vs Cat6A, yeah you right. I didn't dig enough, and thought Cat6A just had the increased frequency capability but didn't have a longer ranger. 100m is plenty good for my house. Running the network out to the shop is another project, and one I'm not quite ready to start buying parts for.