Looking for someone familiar with pico power supplies?
Looking for someone familiar with pico power supplies?
You're starting this process right. Let's break down what you've learned so far and figure out the next steps.
First, the setup is working with your power brick and the board, but the pico PSU isn't turning on. You mentioned a few things that might be causing trouble:
- You broke part of the socket, which could affect connections.
- You're considering plugging the pico directly into the brick for testing.
- The RAM is acting as an interference, making it hard for the pico to connect properly.
- Your new socket seems to work fine in your main system.
From what you've tried:
- The power brick lights up when connected.
- The pico PSU lights up when connected.
- The LED on the pico turns on with the brick plugged in.
- You suspect the RAM is causing issues, especially since it's near the pins and doesn't fit perfectly.
You're also testing different RAM sticks to see if the problem is with the RAM or the socket.
You're checking the hardware you plan to power. Is it the genuine PicoPSU or a copy from another brand? Also note if it's the original: - For reduced fan noise, check the 3.3V and 5V outputs—aim for about 35% less power or keep the PSU surface under 65°C at all times. - Combined output shouldn't go over 65% of total power, or maintain a surface temp below 65°C. - Current draw must stay under 8A. For heavier loads, consider a 2x2 mini FIT JR as a connector. - Each rail's peak should not exceed 60 seconds. - To ensure longevity, keep the PSU surface temperature under 65°C.
It's this one: https://www.amazon.com.mx/gp/product/B07...UTF8&psc=1 N ot sure if that one is legit. It was imported from the US (I'm in Mexico) Wait, does that mean I should not use my 12V 12.5A brick? Oh no... Motherboard: https://www.amazon.com.mx/gp/product/B08...UTF8&psc=1 Ryzen 5 5600G (bios update seemed to go well, first time doing a bios update cpu-less and ram-less) a 1TB M.2 and 2 sticks of 3200Mhz 8GB RAM Also, My problem just got weirder, I pulled out the pico and the RAM stick next to it, then plugged the pico back in and it turned on. So yay! I was thinking, the RAM really is interfering with the other connectors on the pico. However, I tried the other stick in the slot that is out of the way and then it didn't turn on... Ok, so, bad RAM right? Well I used the "good" RAM stick on the slot that is right next to the 24 pin and... it didn't turn on. Ok, so bad slot as well? or maybe it still does interfere with the pico connections (everything seems to be plugged in and completely making contact though). So, "bad" ram eh? well, I put it in my main computer and... there it is, detected, no problems apparently (so far, haven't tried testing it on it's own without my other RAM, probably should try that after writing this) Ok, WEIRDER still, I close the case with the configuration I know works, press the button and... it doesn't turn on... Wait, what did I do wrong? Well, just to try something... Well, my pico comses with a ground wire that seems to want to be screwed into the case, I removed it from the screw and... It turned on? I am so lost...
You'll see it costs significantly more. It's possible the issue lies in how the product is built. I personally tried an unofficial version before switching to the official one, which had inconsistent compatibility—eventually settling for the authorized model that performed flawlessly.
It's a bit of a surprise that it costs four times what you expect. I thought about purchasing a 160W kit from Mini Box directly, but the entire set came to around 90 USD (a solid deal with the brick included), and shipping was about 80 USD—way too high for the value.
DC to DC converters are quite unpredictable, offering low-quality options that make it hard to judge the build quality. When I first used it for my DIY router, I switched to components built right into the motherboard. It’s disappointing that there aren’t standard AM4 boards supporting 12V natively. This highlights why Intel’s push for a 12V PSU is worthwhile. If 12V becomes common, we’ll have more choices for compact builds, even if they need extra space on PCBs. Right now, the smallest case that fits an SFX or full ATX PSU is the most practical. It could resemble a NUC using laptop parts, relying on a 19V external unit, but this limits upgrade flexibility.