Leak testing power up
Leak testing power up
So I'm still struggling to figure out how to connect power to my first water cooling loop and of course the most scared at this point as I'm worried water will spray over all of my components.
I keep reading directions on how to connect power only to the pump/reservoir combo I have, but I just don't seem to be able to make heads or tails of the wording. Perhaps my lack of pc water cooling vocab.
I am wondering if this piece at the top simply plugs into the back of the psu to trick it into thinking it's plugged into the motherboard???
Then can I simply connect the cable in the middle with the ability to plug into the psu with attached sata connectors?
And then use the adaptor on the bottom to attach the sata connectors to the pump?
Then I simply power on the psu until there is room in the reservoir for more coolant, so I power off the psu, add more coolant and power back up again?
Thanks. I just want to make sure now that I have my loop set up, that I only power the loop in case there are leaks on my first every installation.
It might be necessary to connect the motherboard power cable to the PSU, but instead of linking it directly to the motherboard, you could insert the plug at the end to make it appear connected and allow it to start.
Don't let things become distant,
- ATX bridge included
- SATA power for pump adapter with 4 pin molex connector
- SATA power for radiator fans using 3 or 4 pin adapter
■ Take out your PSU from the system, unplug the power cord, ensuring the switch is off if applicable.
■ Link the 24-pin ATX header to the bridge; avoid using the case's power button during pump priming. Pumps require constant power, otherwise they may fail.
■ Attach the adapter to the pump power cable; later you can add radiator fans.
■ Verify all connections are secure and intact.
BLEEDING ME (metallica)
■ Clean the radiator thoroughly; any welding residue could harm the pump.
■ Position your chosen mounting area, then pour coolant into the reservoir. If using a multi-port radiator, fill it up to the thread limit. Avoid exceeding threads or the plug won't seal properly. Use a clean funnel, coffee/tea filter paper, and a clean hose.
■ Lay a paper towel over all joints.
■ Secure the power cord, aiming to eliminate bubbles; a typical loop with a 1-meter tube for about 12 hours usually works, but if bubbles remain, adjust or flip your case to direct coolant into the reservoir and let it rise.
■ Add coolant as needed.
■ Hopefully, no leaks occur.
Thanks. That helps. It's a new build and new loop, so nothing is attached with power yet. So that helps. I guess if I do it wrong, it won't power and I'll try again. Read to use and old PSU because all of the on offing can be hard on a PSU. Sounds like the filling process can take quite a while with all of the incremental coolant fills.
The bridge and connector won't secure properly when connected in reverse, similar to inserting a USB drive. We would really appreciate it if you could share your finished and functional build with us.
I originally intended to do petg but received many recommendations to start with the kit and focus on water cooling first. Afterward, I plan to revisit tube bending later. It was a good decision overall. The learning process has been quite steep. I recently came across a work log featuring steel tubing that would complement my all silver and black build perfectly.