Keyboard not working
Keyboard not working
I have attempted to upgrade my PC by replacing the CPU, GPU, adding 8GB RAM, and updating the power supply. Still, after turning it on, the BIOS fails to start, and the computer won’t boot normally. Connecting the keyboard doesn’t work unless it’s already plugged in, and pressing any keys doesn’t trigger a response. The screen appears black even when powered, and I suspect the GPU might be outdated. After previous BIOS updates, the process ended with only a black screen. I tried changing components again, hoping it would help, but now I’m stuck trying to get the system to boot. Can you help me resolve this issue? How can I make my PC work again?
Welcome to the forums, newcomer! We require additional details to understand your problem. When sharing a troubleshooting thread, it's important to provide your complete system specifications. Please list the following details for your build:
CPU:
CPU cooler:
Motherboard:
Ram:
SSD/HDD:
GPU:
PSU:
Chassis:
OS:
Monitor:
Please include the age of the PSU along with its make and model. Also, provide the current BIOS version for your motherboard. Because you've changed components, we're comparing two sets of specs—one before the upgrade and one after.
I encountered an issue with the BIOS update prior to changing parts. The update appeared complete, but when I tried to power on the PC, only a black screen appeared, no text at all—not even an underscore, just illumination without content.
Some motherboards require a specific sequence during BIOS upgrades. Could you confirm the BIOS version before proceeding with the upgrade?
Moved thread from Computer Peripherals to Systems
Original configuration (2018)
Processor: AMD Ryzen 5 2600
Cooler: included with CPU
Motherboard: GIGABYTE B450 AORUS M
Memory: Patriot 8GB DDR4 2666MHz
Storage: WD Green SSD 240GB 2.5"
GPU: ASROCK Radeon RX 570 Phantom Gaming D 8G OC
Power Supply: Corsair VS450
Case: Zalman T5
Operating System: Windows 10
Display: LCD monitor 22" Philips 226E9QHAB
Upgraded version (2024)
Processor:
AMD Ryzen 7 5700
Cooler: included with CPU
Motherboard: GIGABYTE B450 AORUS M
Memory:
2x
Patriot 8GB DDR4 2666MHz
Storage:
WD Green SSD 240GB 2.5"
GPU:
GAINWARD GeForce RTX 4060 Python II 8G
Power Supply:
Seasonic G12 GC-650 Gold
Case: Zalman T5
Operating System: Windows 10
Display: LCD monitor 22" Philips 226E9QHAB
Interesting. I hadn’t encountered that before. My issues tend to arise when connecting a monitor to the incorrect port, such as using the motherboard iGPU output instead of a PCIe GPU card. At times, the BIOS won’t attempt alternative graphics outputs if the video lead is inserted into the wrong socket.
Which CPU enables you to access the BIOS? The 2600, the 5700, or both?
If you manage to enter the BIOS, it suggests the motherboard hasn’t been completely damaged by an unsuccessful update, which is encouraging. Of course, it might still not be fully functional—potentially causing some corruption. You may not be permitted to re-flash the BIOS to an older version, but you could attempt to re-flash the same version again.
Once inside the BIOS, verify that your RAM is recognized and all connected disk drives are detected.
Turn off any XMP memory overclock settings.
Ensure the BIOS is targeting the drive with your Operating System rather than a non-bootable or networked drive.
Remove any USB memory sticks that might be attempting to boot from USB.
Power supplies behave similarly to people—new ones are like newborns (0 years old), while older ones reach their first birthday, then second, and so on. After several years, they approach the end of their warranty period. Low-quality PSUs usually come with a 1-year warranty, slightly better models with 3 years, and more reliable ones with 5 or 7 years. Longer warranties typically range from 10 to 12 years.
Using a PSU outside its warranty, particularly one with a very short warranty, increases the likelihood of failure sooner than using a longer-warranty unit. This is why it’s important to consider this.
Warranty duration reflects a manufacturer’s confidence in not needing to replace many PSUs before the warranty expires—essentially a measure of quality. Cheaper components tend to age faster and fail earlier.
I'm not sure if "enter" is the correct word, I can only reach the screen displaying the motherboard logo and have an option to open the BIOS setup, but pressing delete doesn't work and it stays on that screen even without pressing any keys. The 5700 shows the logo, while the 2600 shows a black screen.
Also, I wasn't sure these signs were useful for fixing problems, but the VGA LED stays on. It seems there might be a driver problem. The keyboard doesn't light up when I connect it after turning on the computer, and it also doesn't respond at all even though it's plugged in and lights up later. It's like the capslock or numlock keys don't work properly.
It seems like accessing the BIOS isn't possible. That's disappointing. It suggests your BIOS might be damaged or not functioning properly. If you're skilled with a desoldering tool and chip programmer, you could potentially remove the chip, reprogram it, and install a new BIOS. Alternatively, if it's soldered in, it might still be worth checking.
I recently reflashed an older AM4 motherboard to accommodate a newer CPU, but I lost the ability to fit older 1000 Series CPUs because the BIOS chip lacked sufficient space. It's clear that support for older processors was removed after the update. It's possible your updated BIOS no longer recognizes 2000 series processors.
If you can't enter the BIOS using a USB keyboard, consider using an older PS/2 keyboard, especially if your motherboard has a 6-way mini-DIN port. I have several boards where accessing BIOS requires a PS/2 connection rather than USB. While I can press 'Del' or 'F2' on a USB keyboard at startup, the process stops once Windows loads and the OS starts. By then, the USB keyboard works normally.
If you connect a PS/2 keyboard and repeatedly press 'Del' or 'F2' during startup, the BIOS screen appears, allowing you to adjust settings. My assumption is that once the system detects the USB keyboard, the chance to press 'Del' before the window closes has passed.