Issues with BSOD and BCD after upgrading to Ryzen 7 5800x
Issues with BSOD and BCD after upgrading to Ryzen 7 5800x
Hello everyone,
I recently upgraded my CPU from a Ryzen 5 1600x to a Ryzen 7 5800x. Since then, I’ve faced system instability and random crashes such as “page fault in non paged area” and “driver overran stack buffer.” As these issues became more frequent, I thought about performing a system restore. During a Windows reinstall attempt, I encountered a BSOD loop with the “critical process died” error (Error code: 0xc000001) followed by a message saying “boot configuration data file doesn’t contain valid information for an operating system” (File:/bcd, Error code: 0xc0000098).
I’ve observed several Windows files, including regback, are missing or corrupted. I’ve used a bootable USB to run sfc, bootrec, chkdsk, and rebuilt the BCD. However, when trying to modify attributes with the command ‘attrib E:\boot\BCD -h -r -s’, I received a ‘path not found’ error.
To give you some background, I’m running a UEFI system. I’ve also changed CSM support and secure boot on and off without success. Unfortunately, a fresh Windows installation isn’t possible because I need to recover important work files. I attempted to create a new partition on my SSD for a clean Windows install (to transfer missing files), but I suspect there might be a GPT vs. MBR conflict. My hard drive is supported, though I encountered an error when trying to shrink a 30GB volume.
Here are my system details:
• Motherboard: Aorus Pro B450
• CPU: Ryzen 7 5800x
• GPU: RTX 2070
• RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance RGB (XMP enabled at 3.2GHz, also tried disabling)
• Storage:
- 1Tb NVMe WDC (boot drive)
- 1Tb HDD
- 250gb SSD
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.
My first thought is this isn’t a hardware issue but could be related.
My PSU is an Evga 600 W1, 80+ White 600W. It’s quite old and suited for my 1600x well. I performed a stable undervolt (PB02) and ran it in eco mode at 65W.
Despite that, crashes kept happening, the latest being caused by attempting to modify the Windows installation, which led to a BSOD loop (I can’t even enter safe mode).
It seems like you're asking about the power supply unit and the CPU. You're also inquiring about whether you purchased the CPU new or used and where it came from. Additionally, you're wondering if the stock cooler is suitable for your setup.
I recently purchased a new AMD Ryzen 5800x processor from Amazon and installed a Cooler Master CPU cooler, the Hyper 212 model. This cooler isn’t the top choice but was part of a build I assembled about five years ago. At first, temperatures were high when running the processor at its default settings (80 at load). After turning on eco mode and PBO2 with a negative offset around -20, things improved, and it now stays around 70 degrees Celsius under full load.
I didn’t run into many problems until a certain game forced me to enable secure boot, which caused crashes with messages like “page fault in non-paged area” and “driver overran stack buffer.” These crashes were rare, and I only tried to play Windows because I was crashing every 2–3 hours.
My current issue is getting stuck in a BSOD loop, and I can’t perform a system restore using “rstrui.exe” because of the error “0x80070002 system failed while restoring the registry.” I do have backup copies of my registry in the documents folder, which I can access.
I’m planning to upgrade both the CPU cooler and the PSU, but right now my main concern is fixing the boot problems, as I have important deadlines and all my work is on the affected system.
Do you know how to resolve these boot issues? Thank you for your help.
So the term "full load" is quite personal. Many view it as pushing through their toughest game or using tools like Cinebench. That doesn’t qualify as a full load. A true full load requires a "steady state" and cannot be achieved with games or programs such as Cinebench, which don’t provide a consistent core load. Only specialized software like Prime95, Heavyload, OCCT, etc., deliver a full load, and none are as widely recognized by the industry as Prime95 Small FFT.
Therefore, my inquiry is about how you measured your thermal output during a full load. If you were using Small FFT, then as long as you kept the temperature under 80 degrees for 15 minutes—while keeping all AVX options turned off (AVX, AVX2, AVX512)—you’re fully within acceptable limits. Running at 70 degrees offers no advantage over 80 degrees, so as long as you stay below 80-85°F during actual full load testing, there’s no issue. This means you shouldn’t restrict yourself by using ECO mode or adjusting offsets unless AVX settings are relevant. In most cases, setting the AVX offset in the BIOS is advisable.
Addressing boot problems usually means abandoning attempts to rely on saved system images or backups. It’s likely there’s an issue with those files—either corrupted or incompatible with your current BIOS. I’d suggest a clean installation if you suspect this. To be honest, unless you have a verified good system image from a reliable backup like Macrium Reflect or Acronis True Image, I wouldn’t recommend it. Windows restore hasn’t consistently worked for me; most systems that failed restoration using their restore images didn’t function properly afterward. Everyone I’ve assisted with this issue has found the same problem. Some insist on using it, but I disable system restore on every Windows installation unless explicitly requested to keep it enabled. This helps free up system resources and prevents lag during backups while others are in use. I advise using genuine backup software and creating weekly backups on a separate drive—this is far more dependable than anything Windows provides.
Additionally, ensure your drivers come exclusively from the AMD (Chipset driver) and Gigabyte (network, including LAN/WiFi, audio, Bluetooth) support pages. Always select the correct Windows version driver, as many Windows 10 and 11 drivers differ even for the same product or device.
What you’re likely facing may require replacing your drive entirely. Avoid attempting another Windows installation on the same drive where one already exists—it won’t work. Instead, install a fresh copy of Windows to that drive, then transfer your necessary files from the old drive to the new one, and reinstall any programs you need.
At this stage, it seems you’ve tried numerous solutions on that drive, which may have led to further complications. If you manage to boot into Windows in Safe Mode, that could be the next step.