Issue with questioncase swap, new pc build, temp problems/other
Issue with questioncase swap, new pc build, temp problems/other
So I owned an Alienware Aurora R12. I thought it was because the CPU temperature kept going over 90°C even though everything seemed normal and there were no obvious issues. I replaced the VRM heatsink and installed a Corsair H60 water cooler, and everything worked well for the past year.
Later, I swapped in a Hyte Y60 case and found that the front panel connector didn’t match the motherboard from Alienware. I removed the bottom of the Alienware and fitted it into the Hyte Y60. It started working fine except for the display not showing anything, though it stayed on for hours.
I checked each component one by one, tried all possible fixes, but unfortunately, the motherboard failed after the case swap. I ended up buying a new one—best buy or a local store would have been better. The 11th generation mobos are no longer available there.
In the meantime, I had a Ryzen 7 5700G from my wife’s old PC and upgraded to an MSI B550 motherboard. I also installed a Corsair 150i Elite CAPLAX 360mm cooler, added 64GB of RAM (64GB kit), upgraded to Corsair DDR4 3200MHz dual-channel, and replaced the PSU with a Corsair RMA850X. The only parts I kept from the Alienware were the RTX 3070 and two NVMe SSDs, which were still running OS.
After setting everything up in the Hyte Y60, it booted up and worked fine. However, the temperature stayed at 95°C. I checked the BIOS/HSM monitor and confirmed it was stuck at 95°C. The PC didn’t shut down, so I could still play games normally. It’s been a frustrating couple of days.
I’m really looking for a solution to this issue.
As my system is brand new—about 95% of it—and the temperature problem persists, I tried applying new thermal paste (Corsair M30) on the CPU. How could something be so similar to the Alienware? The headache is real.
I also wondered if the pre-built model came with an i7-11700F and would switching to a Ryzen 7 5700G change performance significantly? I haven’t used AMD much in a while.
Also, I should note that the ICUE software shows coolant temperature at 30°C. Everything else was running at full load. This happened even with a 12% CPU load. The fans and pump were spinning at maximum RPM.
This situation is definitely frustrating.
Welcome to the forums, newcomer!
I own an Alienware Aurora R12. I believe this was because I wanted to perform a case swap due to the CPU temperature reading over 90°C, even though everything functioned normally and there were no major issues. You might have just decided to let it sit and sell it, as some recommendations suggest it's not worth spending that much on a hot box. Room heaters are more affordable than an Alienware R12.
It would be wise to list your current specs, such as:
CPU:
CPU cooler:
Motherboard:
Ram:
SSD/HDD:
GPU:
PSU:
Chassis:
OS:
Monitor:
Include the age of the PSU along with its make and model. Also, mention the BIOS version for your motherboard.
It looks like your other components could still be useful and your setup might be in a better situation than what you found.
CPU: ryzen 7 5700g
CPU cooler: Corsair icue 150i elite cappalax
Motherboard: Msi b550
Ram: Corsair vengeance 64 gb kit, two 32 gb sticks, DDR4 3200 mhz
SSD/HDD: western digital 2th m2
GPU: rtx 3070 dell
PSU: Corsair rm850x, brand new, received yesterday
Chassis: Hyte y60
OS: Windows 11
Monitor: two msi 32inch curved, 165 hertz
Bios: 7C91vAE
I will return the motherboard and cooler to Best Buy for $350, I can get it back.
I still have around $400 cash.
I still possess my Intel i7 11700f CPU.
A rtx 3060 12 gb
A Corsair 120 mm aio
And yes, I should have sold it already—I regret it now, but I learned a lot.
Thanks for getting back to me.
Do the two pipes leading into the radiator sit at the peak of your cooling system? If yes, the pump might be drawing air bubbles trapped at the top of the radiator. Most AIO water coolers hold a bit of air along with the coolant. This air naturally climbs to the surface. Excess air intake from the pump can cause temperatures to climb.
So the cooler is located only on top, which is the best spot for mounting. I’ll add pictures once I’m back home. Yes, it’s at the highest point, the cold plate is connected correctly with pea-sized thermal paste, and the paste was brand new.
I don’t hear anything even when running at maximum speed—the fans are faintly audible, but that’s about it. The coolant reads 30°C, which is fine. I remember from my first build, around 10 years ago, I had a Kraken setup with a pump and fan that felt like a jet engine—so the pump definitely wasn’t working?
I didn’t adjust any settings, so it seems automatic handling is happening. Still, I don’t want to overclock, though I do want to keep the boost enabled.
I’m not really into AMD anymore since the FX series came out and I had some issues then. I also tried disabling the CPU integrated GPU to check if temperatures would drop, but it still stays at 95°C.
Honestly, if it’s the CPU, it’s definitely not new. I have two weeks before I might need to return the motherboard and cooler.
I should have pointed out the issue with the radiator's orientation—specifically, that it should be mounted vertically, like behind the front panel with pipes at the top. There shouldn't be a problem if the radiator is placed horizontally at the top of the case. If you're not familiar with modern AMD overclocking methods, verify the BIOS settings and ensure Precision Boost Override is enabled. It can be confusing to interpret what AUTO means for this configuration. I think Auto typically means PBO is off by default, though I'm not certain.
Yeah, it’s just installed normally at the top. I’m aware of some overclocking attempts, but I don’t usually do them. I’ll check the BIOS when I get home, though I don’t recall seeing that option before. One change in the BIOS was adjusting the RAM XMP profile from 2133 to 3200, that’s about all.
Are you permitted to simply upload the pictures yourself? If not allowed, these links may be removed. Please create a new account and check the rules. I'm trying to display the system build and temperature readings. Should I consider replacing the CPU entirely? To determine if the problem continues or if everything should be returned and replaced?
Or the cpu cooler might be installed incorrectly or is faulty (such as a dead pump or blocked CPU block). Reinstall the cpu cooler correctly. If this doesn't resolve the issue, consider replacing it with a new one.
I understand it ended up being the CPU cooler because the manual wasn’t included. I watched the YouTube video and installed it as shown, following the instructions for the black plastic mounts that hold the backplate. The YouTuber mentioned using them during installation, and I thought he was correct since there were no other brackets or backplates compatible with the cooler.
The black plastic pieces actually created a very small gap, preventing the cool plate from touching the CPU. After removing those pieces, I simply attached the standoff to the backplate and secured the CPU cooler in place. Now my temperatures are within normal ranges—still around 40°C during idle and about 60°C during basic gaming, which is much better than the previous 95°C.
I’m okay with my Intel i7-11700F, though I don’t notice a significant performance boost. Probably due to some random factor. For other reasons, my games look sharper than on the prebuilt GPU, and the colors are more appealing.
Thanks again for your help. I’m curious about the best way to position the case fans. I currently have three 120 mm fans on the radiator, two 140 mm fans at the bottom, a 120 mm fan on the rear, and two non-glass side fans. Should I keep them in this arrangement, or should I consider swapping any of them to see if it affects temperatures?