Issue with PC: No startup, no boot, extremely outdated version.
Issue with PC: No startup, no boot, extremely outdated version.
Hi, I'm having trouble resurrecting a very old PC build...like probably 10+ years ago that has sat idle for at least 4 years. Hopefully someone can help me with this. I've followed this post https://forums. as despite the PC working perfectly previously the sympoms match mine but I still have the problem. The problem...On powering on the lights come on, the cooling fans spin, the GPU fans spin, the pump (water cooled CPU) power indicator lights up but I don't think the pump starts up as I can't feel any vibration in it for the one or two seconds it has power. No post, no boot and no video output. Now let me clarify about the water pump at this point. With the pump correctly mounted I get nothing at all, no lights, no fans spinning, just dead, however, if it turn the pump on its side I get the above symptoms. So I'm thinking dodgy power lead connection, dodgy USB connection or seized/ faulty pump. What I've tried...Reseated the RAM, tried with each stick on their own, reseated the GPU, checked all power cable connections and reseated, removed CMOS for 5 minutes, unplugged the USB 2.0 (one of the USB connectors on the front is damaged). The PC does not power up long enough to get a Q code, it just says 00. At this point I'm thinking dead RAM, dead MB, dead PSU or the pump. For me the pump is the smoking gun as if I turn it on its side I get power albeit briefly but when correctly positioned I get nothing. I also can't feel it turn for the brief moment it has power. So I guess really my question is would a faulty/ seized pump cause these symptoms? Or is the problem likely elsewhere bearing in mind it may well have multiple issues. I think I should probably be stripping it right down and doing a full re-build, rescuing anything I can but it's become a bit of challenge now and I'd like to get it boot at least. Many thanks Fritz
I'm facing difficulties bringing back an old PC build, possibly from over a decade ago that hasn't been used for at least four years. When sharing troubleshooting threads, it's important to provide detailed system specifications. Please list your build details as follows:
CPU:
CPU cooler:
Motherboard:
Ram:
SSD/HDD:
GPU:
PSU:
Chassis:
OS:
Monitor:
Please include the age of the PSU along with its make and model.
Here are the make/model details of all parts.
I anticipate the cooler will be included.
After a decade, it's probable that air has entered through the tubes.
If the motherboard fails to recognize a cooler, the system won't boot.
This could indicate excessive RPM on the CPU cooler fan or pump.
Adjusting the unit may shift where air bubbles form.
It might be advisable to switch to an air cooler—they're affordable.
Apologies specs are as follows:
i7-4790K
CPU is water cooled with an Aquastream XT usb pump & EK water block
Maximus VI Formula MB
2 x Ballistic 4 Gb DDR3
500 Gb SSD for OS & 1 TB HDD storage but can't remember the brands
GTX 1660Ti air cooled. Orignally 2 x AMD water cooled can't remember which but replaced with a single 1660 Ti a long time ago without issues.
Win 10 Pro
Fractal Newton 1000w (10 years old)
Benq generic monitor at the moment
@geofelt
There's currently a small air lock in the EK block and quite possibly in the pump as tipping it at least powers it up momentarily but I'm unsure of that's an air lock or an eletrical cable fault (I've reseated but ot replaced any cables). I'm kind of hoping it's the pump and from your post it sounds like if the MB doesn't detect a pump operating then that may be the issue?
The 10-year-old PSU you have was initially covered by a 3-year warranty, which doesn't reflect high quality. If possible, check if you can replace it with a new one.
Afternoon, here’s a brief update on my situation.
I replaced an old PSU (non-ATX) and hooked it into the water pump, which is working properly.
I did the same by taking out the 24-pin ATX from the motherboard, and again the pump ran fine—so the PSU must be supplying at least 12V to the pump. Still unsure if that rules out a U/S issue.
I swapped in new RAM sticks thought to be reliable, but I haven’t seen any post or booted up.
The GPU was removed and the monitor connected via integrated graphics through HDMI. Still no sign of a post or boot.
All drives were unplugged (SATA), but the MB lights came on with power and provided power to the USB ports for the keyboard and mouse.
So far, it seems I’m left with the PSU, MB, or CPU—does that make sense?
Additionally, I found two wires in a ribbon cable that appear to be damaged. Tracing the path shows they start from the system panel connector on the motherboard, with remaining wires in the ribbon linking to the power switch (four wires) and the HDD light (two wires). They seem to end up at the front panel of the case (Thermaltake Level 10 GT), but I’m not sure what they’re connected to.
The front power switch could be loose, corroded, or otherwise faulty.
Consider beginning the motherboard by briefly touching the PWR and GND pins on the front panel connector.
In fact, your motherboard features a red START button to initiate the system.
Initially, the first check will focus on the memory.
You should see a MEM OK indicator that confirms memory passed inspection.
If all else fails, consult your product manual—it is quite detailed.