Issue with desktop PC not booting post-sleep, despite several component swaps
Issue with desktop PC not booting post-sleep, despite several component swaps
Hi,
My brother is using a Windows 10 Desktop PC with these components:
MSI RTX 4060Ti Ventus 3x, MSI B550 Gamer Plus Motherboard (previous model: MSI B365M Mortar), AMD Ryzen 7 5800X (previous CPU: Intel i7 9700KF), 32GB GSKILL Ripjaw 3200MHz, Thermaltake 600W Smart Series, random WiFi card, 1TB NVME M.2 Samsung, and a 1TB SSD.
He put the machine to sleep overnight with the old parts. In the morning, it didn’t boot and there was no response or lights from the motherboard. We thought the power supply unit might be faulty, so we performed a paperclip test and used a multimeter to verify the voltages. Everything checked out, and the system was able to run the fans, so we believed the PSU was fine. We figured the issue was likely with the motherboard or CPU. Eventually, we replaced both with the new parts listed above. After rebuilding everything, the same problems persisted—no motherboard lights, no boot, and the PSU seemed normal. We’re considering replacing the PSU as a last resort, but we’d like a second opinion before doing so. Could the PSU actually report “power good” and stable voltages across all pins of the 24-pin motherboard connector, yet still fail to function? Please let us know, as we’re quite concerned about this situation!
Thanks,
Jacob
Was Windows nach den Upgrades erneut installiert oder wurde lediglich der Bootlauf übertragen?
Wie wurden die PSU-Stromspannungen bestimmt?
Zum Beispiel:
https://www.lifewire.com/how-to-manually...er-2626158
Ist der M.2-Slot der Bootlauf?
Wird das System in den sicheren Modus starten?
Hast du versucht, die SSD zu trennen?
As discussed in the thread, the computer does not POST — the motherboard lights are not on and no fans operate. It is a total failure, making it impossible to reinstall Windows or access the BIOS. I am experienced with a multimeter and verified the voltages in the motherboard power connector pins after connecting them together. Each regulated voltage (3.3, 5, 12, -12) is within specifications. The M.2 drive is not the boot device, and the system does not enter safe mode. Regarding disconnecting the SSD, it might influence power delivery to the motherboard since the SSD is connected directly to the power supply.
This is essentially two systems that don’t even display any signs of functioning.
So I need to consider possible explanations, no matter how absurd they might seem.
Is the wall outlet operational? Yes, you mentioned testing the power supply, but I’m unsure if it was checked on the same outlet. I’m trying to eliminate possibilities.
Have you attempted to jump the motherboard pins for power and avoided using the case wiring for the power button?
A simple test would be to use his old board, power supply, and memory, then place them together on a table and jump the power pins with a small screwdriver. Would it reach the BIOS?
SSD being powered (C and M.2 handling data) is correct? I mistakenly believed otherwise. Regardless, taking out nonessential parts—like an additional drive—is a method to rule out possible causes. It’s odd that the PSU voltages match the specifications (referenced on Lifewire) yet the motherboards remain unresponsive. Could there be a single point of failure in the electrical paths or schematics that would stop both motherboards from receiving power? Possible points include the wall outlet, the PSU connection, or even the PSU itself, which doesn’t explain the readings. A break or short circuit might be the issue.
Per @stonecarver and @DSzymborski, I recommend rechecking everything thoroughly. I also suggest considering a replacement CMOS battery.
Hi,
We have tested two different wall outlets and two power cables that match the current requirements. We also attempted to jump the reset-sw motherboard jumpers using solder, but no improvement. Our main idea is that the power supply can generate acceptable voltages with minimal load (paperclip test), yet it might not provide sufficient current for the system to start properly. This could mean the motherboard doesn’t even try to boot, and we’re not seeing the expected status lights (like RGB) before startup.
Hi,
these are indeed my thoughts. We've already invested about $350 in replacement parts, so we're seeking advice before spending another $80 on yet another new component. This seems to be our next step. I'm mainly concerned that if the PSU replacement doesn't help, we might end up with a haunted PC and have to call in an exorcist.
Hi,
You're right about the M.2 being data and the SSD acting as the boot drive. I should have mentioned that in the specifications. From what you shared, it seems we tested several wall outlets and power cables that matched our requirements, but nothing worked. It appears the issue is with the PSU—it might not be delivering enough current for a proper startup. It could handle light loads and produce the right voltages without load, but it can't supply power effectively now. We’d probably see some motherboard indicators after turning on the PSU power, indicating it’s only drawing a small amount of power.
For some reason this brings me to question:
"We also attempted to jump the reset-sw motherboard jumpers using a piece of solder"
Is soldering without heat correct?
Compare that to just using a bare copper wire...
= = = =
During the PSU voltage tests: the PSU was fully disconnected from the host computer, and all measured voltages (3, 5, and 12) were within acceptable limits?
But when the PSU was reconnected to the motherboard, it seemed completely inactive.
The next step, as I see it, would be to replace the PSU with a known working unit using only the cables that came with it.
For reference, check the voltages on the replacement PSU.
Also, before installing the test PSU, examine the motherboards for any signs of damage: swollen capacitors, blackened or browned patches.
Start with the original motherboard and set aside any immediate cable organization until you can confirm everything is intact.
Carefully inspect all cables for damage, kinks, pinching, exposed conductors, melted insulation, etc.
The goal is simply to get the original motherboard operational if possible.
If that fails, proceed with the second motherboard using the swapped PSU.
In short, a very methodical, careful, and thorough "restart" approach, keeping things as simple as possible.
Hopefully the PC will function again or we’ll identify the exact cause.