Is this a faulty PSU?
Is this a faulty PSU?
I just got this PSU and hooked it up to my PC with no avail. I am a first time pc builder and was wondering if it’s supposed to do this during paperclip test. It seems I need to give it a tiny movement for the fan to go for like 2 seconds. It’s a Lian Li edge gold 1000W PSU
The summary provided effectively captures the key points. Here it is rephrased while keeping the original structure and intent intact:
Expected Behavior for Lian Li EDGE PSU in Paperclip Test
Standard Paperclip Test:
Connecting the green wire (pin 16) to a black ground wire (e.g., pin 17) on the 24-pin connector mimics a motherboard’s power-on signal. For most ATX PSUs, including the Lian Li EDGE EG1000G, this should trigger the PSU to power up and deliver voltage to its rails. The fan usually starts spinning, though some newer models, such as the Lian Li EDGE series, might operate in a zero-RPM mode where it only spins when under load or heat. During the paperclip test, the fan often spins briefly or stays on as the PSU gets up, depending on its design.
Lian Li EDGE Specifics:
The Lian Li EDGE EG1000G is an 80 PLUS Gold or Platinum rated PSU featuring a removable USB/fan PWM hub and a 120mm FDB fan. User reviews highlight strong performance and dependable power delivery, though no specifics are given about fan behavior during a paperclip test. As it meets ATX 3.1 standards, it likely operates in a semi-fanless mode, but the fan should still spin at least briefly during startup in this test, as expected for most PSUs to signal power-up.
Analysis of the Issue (Fan Twitches When Tilted)
The observed pattern—no response when paperclipped, but a brief fan twitch upon tilting—points to a possible fault. Possible reasons include loose internal connections, faulty components, or insufficient power supply initialization.
Diagnosis: The paperclip test bypassing the motherboard confirms the problem lies within the PSU itself. The twitch implies some power reaches the fan, but the PSU isn’t fully engaging or maintaining operation.
Action: Do not use further unless necessary. Check for visible damage or loose wires if you’re comfortable opening the unit, though this may void any warranty.
Defective PSU:
Cause: The unit might be faulty, unable to power on properly during the test. A twitch without sustained operation could signal control or regulation failure.
Diagnosis: A successful paperclip test usually leads to continuous or at least short fan rotation (e.g., 15 seconds). If the Lian Li EDGE PSU doesn’t maintain fan or output, it’s likely defective.
Action: Use a PSU tester if available, or retry the test with correct pin connections (green to black). If unsuccessful, the PSU is probably bad.
Zero-RPM Fan Mode Confusion:
Cause: The PSU could enter a zero-RPM mode, preventing fan spin without load, even during the test. However, the twitch when tilted suggests this isn’t the main concern, as a working PSU should still power on and fan should spin briefly at startup.
Diagnosis: Attempt the test with a load (like a hard drive or fan on the PSU’s output) to see if the fan activates. If only a twitch remains, the PSU is likely defective.
Action: If the load causes fan operation, it’s probably a control issue; otherwise, proceed to warranty or professional evaluation.
Physical Damage or Dust Accumulation:
Cause: Dust or debris inside the PSU could hinder fan movement or disrupt connections, and tilting might dislodge it temporarily, causing the twitch. The removable dust filter suggests regular maintenance is important.
Diagnosis: Inspect the dust filter and exterior for blockages. Tilting could move debris, leading to a brief fan movement.
Action: Clean the filter and clean the exterior. If safe, check the fan for obstructions, but avoid opening the unit unless you’re experienced, as this may void any warranty.
Misconfigured Paperclip Test:
Cause: Incorrect setup—such as wrong pin connections, a loose paperclip, or an unplugged PSU—can result in no response. The twitch when tilted might reflect inconsistent contact.
Diagnosis: Confirm the paperclip is correctly inserted into pin 16 (green) and a ground pin (e.g., pin 17, black) on the 24-pin connector. Ensure the PSU is powered and the connection is secure.
Action: Retry the test with proper setup, or try a different pin configuration if possible.
Overall, the situation points toward a potential PSU failure, with the fan behavior being a clear indicator of internal issues.
Thank you for the reply. I plan to test my board by connecting it to a monitor to check functionality, and if that fails, I’ll explore replacing the PSU.
If the PSU is unstable, avoid connecting it to your motherboard just in case it leads to harm. Instead, consider investing 10 dollars in an ATX PSU tester. These inexpensive devices don’t simulate a full load on the PSU, yet they provide a basic check of the off-load voltages for 12V, 5V, and 3.3V rails.
https://www.amazon.com/Supply-Diagnostic...B0CNGKCLSV
The accurate voltage ranges are detailed here:
https://www.lifewire.com/power-supply-vo...es-2624583
PSU Tolerance Table
Voltage Rail
Tolerance
Minimum Voltage
Maximum Voltage
+3.3VDC
± 5%
+3.135 VDC
+3.465 VDC
+5VDC
± 5%
+4.750 VDC
+5.250 VDC
+5VSB
± 5%
+4.750 VDC
+5.250 VDC
-5VDC (if used)
± 10%
-4.500 VDC
-5.500 VDC
+12VDC
± 5%
+11.400 VDC
+12.600 VDC
-12VDC
± 10%
-10.800 VDC
-13.200 VDC
Money and time wasted.
It can display voltages when the PSU is idle, but it doesn't confirm proper operation under load. PSUs are built to function with load, not just when idle.
Using a PSU tester is like checking a car's roadworthiness when the engine idles, without actually taking it for a test drive.
You don't actually require a specially made PSU tester to measure voltages during idle or even when under load — a DMM would suffice. A PSU tester that can somehow capture the smallest and largest voltage spikes on a line would be quite handy.
Yes, there are load regulators designed specifically for PSUs, but they come at a high price. Further reading: Setting up a PSU test requires a budget of around 10K, and it also demands the right expertise to handle properly. This isn't something a typical user can manage.
There are intermediate PSU testers that work well for regular computer users. They cost a few hundred dollars and check ATX specifications such as ripple and holdup time, providing a pass/fail result. Passmark offers one of them. For around ten dollars, it’s better to invest in a 25 dollar multimeter that can test voltage, resistance, diodes, and connectivity. However, thorough PSU testing usually needs a more expensive setup. The best option for most people is to connect the PSU to a computer with spare parts, if available.
I own a pair of PSU testers now, they don’t advertise testing “load” but instead confirm the wiring is correct and the PSU functions properly. If the wiring is faulty (as happened with a previous batch of EVGA PSUs), the unit will display a red flash on the affected lines. This isn’t a waste of money. The tester also includes a power switch, allowing you to activate or deactivate it during testing—useful for priming pumps in a custom water-cooled system.
Typically, a reliable PSU offers a jumper connector instead of relying on unsafe paper clips. Invest in the $15 unit; it’s worth it. I wish I had one sooner, because an EVGA PSU damaged a SATA device.
I mentioned in my initial comment that these testers don't put stress on the PSU. As someone involved in MilSpec and AeroSpace projects, I’m familiar with testing ATX PSUs, but I don’t have the necessary equipment at home (digital loads, meters, scopes, etc.). If needed, I could connect power rheostats to the rails or use car headlight bulbs (tungsten) instead of risking a fully functional PC.
Some users may not be comfortable using a digital multimeter, which is why I recommended the ATX "tester." If you accidentally connect a DMM lead to the 10A current socket and attempt voltage checks, you could short-circuit the PSU and blow the fuse in the meter. An ATX "tester" is generally more intuitive for beginners.
I own a few inexpensive and less reliable multimeters, some under $10. I carry one with me on trips to inspect batteries and verify cable continuity. I keep more advanced testing tools at home in my workshop.
The most affordable meter I found on the Farnell website is about US $4.15 not including tax. I don’t assume the CE/UL certification on the device indicates the design has passed safety standards.