Is the motherboard stuck with a VGA LED issue during the boot process?
Is the motherboard stuck with a VGA LED issue during the boot process?
Motherboard remains stuck on VGA LED during startup. After upgrading CPU, motherboard, and RAM, I installed a 14700K, Aorus z790 Elite with Wi-Fi 7 and Corsair Dominator DDR5 RAM (16x2 GB). I followed all steps carefully, including installing the RTX 4070ti and updating Windows 10 using Q Flash plus the button with newmicrocode. Performance improved significantly, allowing smooth playback of Avowed and BLOPS6 with strong gains. However, I noticed CPU temperatures reaching 100°C, which fluctuated but never stayed below it. At idle, it averaged around 50°C, though it frequently hit 100°C. Checking the Intel XTU showed thermal throttling. Because I was new to applying thermal paste, I initially used the pre-applied paste from the original CPU model. When installing my cooler on this newer CPU, I didn’t apply any new paste, relying instead on the residual paste already present in the cooler’s heat pipes. I assumed the paste issue was the cause of overheating. Despite this, I followed all procedures—re-seating GPU, CPU, cooler, thermal paste, RAM, and cables—but the problem persisted. The PC remained stuck at POST after four hours, with status LEDs cycling, CPU blinking, and no display. VGA LED wouldn’t move. I’ve tried everything possible; I’m stuck in a loop and need any advice or solutions.
Remove the GPU from the system and plug monitor to MoBo. This bypasses the VGA error.
If still no image, one of the following (or all of them) are dead: CPU, MoBo, RAM.
But when image does come back and you can boot to OS, while PC works otherwise fine, then your GPU is toast.
Btw, PSU make and model (or part number) is? Also, how old the PSU is, and was the PSU bought new or used/refurbished?
Hello, thank you for your reply. I plan to give it a shot and I hope it works out fine, as I can't afford a new GPU right now. My PSU is a Gigabyte Greenmax, which seems to be quite old, but so far it hasn't caused any problems.
EDIT: I also want to mention that while I kept trying to fix the issue, I removed the GPU and restarted the PC—it still stuck on the VGA LED.
So far, things remain the same.
Then costs will rise.
It’s essential to upgrade to a new PSU, as GreenMax GreenMax came out in 2011 (GreenMax Pro in 2013), and the original GreenMax was a more affordable option. The upgraded version is still better but, given its age, isn’t recommended for modern high-end or expensive equipment.
Not much can be done to determine which part—CPU, motherboard, or RAM—is failing.
For RAM, it’s wise to remove all DIMMs and test one at a time, checking the results. It might be useful to evaluate all RAM slots on the motherboard, though I doubt success.
Regarding CPU and motherboard, you should opt for a compatible system where you can thoroughly test both components. Avoid using donor parts from previous builds, as GreenMax has already caused issues.
If you’re certain that the CPU or motherboard is dead, it’s best to take your PC to a repair shop for diagnostics.
The GPU can be tested in a second system to confirm functionality; if it doesn’t work there, it’s likely also dead.
Based on what happened, my assessment is:
Your old PSU has given up and left behind other components, which is a significant trade-off. This is the price you’ll have to pay for using low-quality power supply units, particularly very outdated ones.
Since the PSU supplies power to everything, it’s the most critical part inside the PC.
Therefore, never compromise on quality when it comes to PSU! Also, avoid purchasing used units.
A useful lesson: never use a cheap PSU, especially for extended use.
For high-performance gear, you’d expect top-tier PSUs such as Seasonic PRIME Titanium, Corsair AXi, or Super Flower Leadex Titanium.
At the very least, ensure you have a reliable PSU. At the very least, consider upgrading your motherboard and RAM.
In the worst case, everything connected to the old PSU—CPU, RAM, GPU, and SSDs—might fail.
Typically, if the PSU is problematic, the motherboard follows shortly after, then the GPU, with CPU and RAM being more resilient but not completely immune.
If you’re replacing your PSU, aim for an 850W model (assuming your i7-14700K and RTX 4070 Ti are still working). Preferably a modern ATX 3.x model; link: https://hwbusters.com/best_picks/best-at...busters/4/
Thank you for your detailed account. I plan to consider a replacement soon. Also, wow, this happened. Thank Allah the problem is resolved now. The situation was when I had to shift my monitor to create room for applying thermal paste to my PC case. It’s an H9 model from NZXT, quite large, so I needed extra space. After moving the monitor to the edge of my desk, the power cable stretched and fell off. I noticed the monitor’s power LED was off, so I checked the cable—it was unplugged. After reconnecting it and restarting the PC, the VGA LED blinked and then turned off. The display came back and POST was successful. I logged into Windows and played BLOPS6 for an hour. Temperatures are still a bit off, because I re-applied the paste after reseating the CPU, but it worked fine enough. I’ll buy new thermal paste next week. For now, the computer is fully functional.
I spent four hours yesterday trying to fix something that didn’t seem to be broken!
Strange feature.
🤔
Although I understand its purpose, it also imposes a significant limitation: any PC running this MoBo cannot function as a headless system. Perhaps you can turn off this setting in the BIOS.
However, most computers start up and work without a monitor at all. The display device isn't essential for the PC's own operation; it's only required for users to observe what the PC is doing. There are alternative methods to monitor the PC's activity, such as network control.
👍
But consider replacing the PSU soon. Otherwise, you risk accumulating many unnecessary components if the PSU fails unexpectedly.
You're completely right about this odd behavior, so I'll check the BIOS to see if it can be disabled on the ASUS ROG Strix Z490-H. I wasn't expecting this to occur. I need to secure a PSU soon, so I'll start searching for options soon—thank you for your help!
EDIT: Should I consider purchasing a 1000W power supply since I plan to get a RTX 5080?
A 1kw unit works well for the RTX 5080, so proceed with it.
Top 1kW PSU options:
https://hwbusters.com/best_picks/best-at...busters/5/