Identifying Issues with Failed POST Requests
Identifying Issues with Failed POST Requests
Hi Everyone,
I'm an intermediate PC builder who's built a few systems but never faced this kind of problem. I'm reaching out for some guidance.
My current setup includes:
LianLi LANCOOL 217
ASUS ROG Strix Z690-A Gaming WiFi D4
Intel Core i7-13700K
64 GB Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 RAM at 3200MHz
AMD Radeon 9070XT
Noctua NH-D15S
Corsair RM850x GOLD
I've been experiencing odd CPU performance issues in Battlefield 6. It turns out I'm running RAM that's close to the minimum recommended for the game. I wasn't expecting a RAM upgrade to solve everything, but I was interested in testing its impact on speed. I decided to use the QVL for my motherboard and CPU to explore faster options. I ended up getting Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro DDR 4 at 3600 MHz and a 32 GB 2x16 GB configuration. Thinking a performance boost would be worth it, I considered adding more sticks to reach 64 GB—though that seems excessive for most games, except for the occasional Star Citizen.
However, upon returning home, I realized this RAM wouldn't fit with my cooler due to orientation constraints. Another suboptimal choice on my end. Additionally, two slots were blocked by the cooler, preventing me from selecting the correct configuration. I wondered if running in the two farthest slots from the CPU might have contributed to the problems.
To address this, I ordered an Arctic Liquid Freez III Pro 360 as a new cooler, drawn to its positive reviews for AIO systems. This morning, I installed both the cooler and the new RAM, making sure to properly align the contact frame and tighten the screws securely. Initially, the MX6 paste from the cooler seemed overly thick and difficult to apply, but I decided to test it with a fresh tube of MX4 paste. I reconnected everything using the cooler's power cables: pump to pump head, VRM fan to CPU head, and radiator fans to case fan.
After a few minutes, I powered off the PSU and rebooted. The system failed to boot, though RGB lights on RAM, motherboard, GPU, and the front case fan lit up. I waited a couple of minutes, then turned off the PSU and restarted. This time, the radiator spun up at high RPM, but nothing happened. I tried again, rebooting multiple times. The CPU light flashed bright red, and this continued across several attempts.
I suspected either poor CPU seating or the paste issue. I removed everything, cleaned the CPU and cooler, re-seated all components, and reapplied the paste (which was much easier). I also took out the radiator from the case and re-seated the CPU power cables. At this stage, the PC completely failed to POST, though the RGB lights remained active.
I attempted a workaround by swapping in the old RAM and testing the original configuration, but still got no POST. I noticed the GPU was getting warm—just a bit, like a hot cup of coffee.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I'm concerned about potential CPU damage, so I'm considering removing everything and trying the old cooler with the original RAM setup. However, I thought I'd share my experience here for advice before making further changes.
If photos could help, I'm happy to send them.
Also, thank you in advance for your support!
Welcome to the forums, newcomer!
ASUS ROG Strix Z690-A Gaming WiFi D4
Intel Core i7-13700K
Many 13th and 14th Gen Intel chips had problems from manufacturing.
I bought some Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro DDR 4 3600 MHz, a 32 GB 2x16 GB setup.
Thinking I could add more sticks for a 64 GB configuration, though that’s probably too much unless I play Star Citizen often.
Just in case, are you combining different RAM kits? It might help to explain your current RAM setup. Also, if you’re mixing and matching, sharing images of the PCB versions would be useful. Including purchase dates for the RAM would also be helpful.
With the RAM you have, what BIOS version is installed on your motherboard?
And how old is your power supply unit?
CPU should be fine, but MoBo, in the other hand, is different story.
I'm suspecting CPU socket pins bent/broken.
Since the contact frame installation of Arctic cooler is the hairy part of it, whereby you need to remove the default ILM when installing the contact frame. At that point, there's nothing that holds the CPU in place in the socket, other than the gravity. And pressure on top of the CPU (e.g at the corner of it), is very easy to bend and break the tiny pins in the LGA1700 socket.
Just to confirm it, take the CPU out and go over the LGA socket with magnifying glass, to see if any of the pins are misaligned (bent) or completely gone.
Since just replacing CPU cooler won't brick the build. Unless something happened during the swap.
Overall, it doesn't look good. You could breadboard the MoBo and also removing GPU from the build (hook monitor to MoBo), to see if it helps. Also, only use one DIMM of RAM.
Just to make sure, you did screw down the contact frame in X pattern, as shown in AIO manual, right?
I'll give these tips a shot.
For my RAM setup I'm trying to stay consistent—don't mix kits.
I've experimented with:
- one stick from each kit in each socket individually
- then both sticks of one followed by the others in the correct dual-channel slots
I'm worried about the pin placement—I used the x-pattern and tried to avoid over-tightening, but it seems I might have been too careful.
I also discovered my power cord setup was incorrect; from further research, the pump cable should connect to the CPU fan head to avoid POST failures. I'll check the pins and try re-seating using the single cable configuration.
Thanks for the advice, I'll share what I learn. If the worst happens and the CPU breaks, I'll go with AMD anyway—I was planning a new build next year with an AMD processor, which could push my schedule forward.
I don't prefer those CPU coolers that require removing the ILM when installing them, as it can easily cause damage to the CPU socket. For AM5 builds, I've chosen the Thermalright Royal Pretor 130 Black, which stands out not only for its excellent cooling but also because I didn't need to remove the ILM during installation. According to the AIO installation manual, you can install it without removing the ILM for AM5 systems. However, on Intel platforms, you must remove the ILM before installing.
For more details, refer to the online manual: https://support.arctic.de/liquid-freezer-III-pro-360. Although Intel MoBos have openings that allow installation without removing the ILM, such as in my previous Z170 chipset build (Arctic Freezer i32), it's still recommended to avoid attempting repairs yourself due to the small and delicate pins.
If you need a repair, consider sending your Intel MoBo to a repair shop like Northridge Fix, which is reputable: https://northridgefix.com. They accept international orders and can handle repairs globally. If you're outside the USA, this option is available.
Additionally, Alex, the founder of Northridge Fix, frequently shares electronics repair videos on his YouTube channel, which I find both engaging and educational. You can watch them here: https://www.youtube.com/@NorthridgeFix/videos.
Some pins on the CPU socket can be bent back, but this should be done carefully. For further assistance, Asus also offers a service for full CPU socket replacement and repair, though their customer support has been criticized in recent times.