I have some issues with this NAS build?
I have some issues with this NAS build?
I came to a halt uncertain about whether my setup would function properly, as several issues emerged. This NAS is primarily intended for sharing files among a few PCs and laptops at home, and I also plan to run PLEX. To address this, I assembled an affordable NAS build using the Jonsbo N3 enclosure, featuring eight bays for 3.5" HDDs plus one SSD native spot with an ASRock C236 WSI Mini ITX LGA1151 motherboard, equipped with two 16GB ECC RAM slots and a Xeon E3-1200 v5 CPU that supports video transcoding without needing a GPU. Since the motherboard only provides one PCIe slot, I considered adding a 10GB NIC card to accommodate future needs, given the default two 1GB LAN ports.
While searching for a PSU, I noticed the ASRock motherboard uses a 24-pin connector, whereas most compatible PSUs have an 18-pin design. Additionally, PCpartpicker indicated a missing USB-C power port on the front panel, which I’m willing to overlook as I don’t anticipate using it. I’m unsure what else might be missing or if an adapter could resolve the 24-pin to 18-pin discrepancy.
But then while searching for PSU, I noticed the ASRock motherboard uses a 24-pin connector, whereas all the SFX PSUs I checked that fit into the Jonsbo N3 case (limited to 105mm length) had only 18-pins.
I'm trying to understand what you mean by an 18-pin connector.
https://www.asrockrack.com/general/produ...Model=C236 WSI#Specifications
The motherboard requires a single 4-pin EPS port in addition to the 24-pin one, and I'm not sure what you're talking about with an 18-pin connector from the PSU. The power supply's wiring might split at one end with an 18-pin connector and another with a 10-pin connector, both ending up connecting to the main 24-pin port for your motherboard (thanks to double wiring).
You'll find this setup on most modular PSUs. I've seen it on Seasonic's M12II, Thermaltake's GF1 and Lian Li SP850 (which is an SFX unit), among others.
You can follow this video as a reference;
View: https://youtu.be/GNMtmUOCtwI?t=2087
ohhhh... I didn't know
there's
a cable that converts 18-pin into 24-pin in single cable.... I don't often build PC so I kept thinking the output connectors (numbers of pins) has to match the destination.... thanks for a quick tip, I learn something new every now & then
So all in all, is that a decent build for a NAS? Do you recommend I get a 10gb NIC card for the PCI slot?
Even with slower RAID-Z2 hard disk arrays in True-NAS core, I achieve an additional 30MB/s compared to Gigabit speeds. 10Gb performs better during data transfers between NVMe devices on different machines.
I employ Solarflare SFN5122F ex server SFP+ NICs (more affordable than 10Gb Ethernet) paired with a Mikrotik switch.
You might consider the newer SFP7122F or a Chinese equivalent of the 5122. Note that the 5122 supports PCIe Gen.2.
You can also find the 5122 on eBay here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/394229691187?_s...BM2PG02INm
I also possess several Asus XG-C100C Ethernet NICs:
https://www.asus.com/networking-iot-serv.../xg-c100c/
Another alternative 10Gb switch is available here: https://www.servethehome.com/the-ul...er...rotik-qct/
Appreciate the advice! Just got my Mikrotik switch and SFN5122F.
The Gigabit Ethernet port on the Mikrotik serves both as an input and an output.
I use a 30-meter fibre cable from the broadband router upstairs, connected via a Netgear 10G switch, to the Mikrotik downstairs. I link the 1G Ethernet port on the Mikrotik to a basic 1G switch for internet access on devices lacking 10G fibre ports.
Remember to include DAC cables or OM3 fibre optic cables along with transceivers for longer distances.
For more details, see:
https://www.servethehome.com/what-is-a-d...dac-cable/
https://edgeoptic.com/kb_article/multimode-fiber-types/
I purchase inexpensive second-hand optical transceivers on eBay for less than $10 each, though compatibility isn't guaranteed with every SFP+ card or switch.
Occasionally, you may need dual transceivers to handle mismatched cards and switches—for example, using an HP transceiver at one end and a Cisco transceiver at the other.
Ensure you select an OM3 fibre cable compatible with the dual socket on the transceiver, preferably LC to LC.
Also verify your transceiver supports 10G SFP+, not just 1G SFP.
Direct Attached Copper (DAC) is a simpler solution; I usually buy affordable second-hand DAC cables on eBay.
If you encounter difficulties, refer to this forum:
https://forums.servethehome.com/index.ph...=relevance
Wow... I don't really understand all those details, but I'm trying to keep it simple. In my apartment I set up:
Wall coax connect to this modem:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007IMPMW4?ref...in_title_2
Then the modem connects to this router:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ABOJKS?ref...in_title_2
From there, I'll link the router to the Mikrotik switch using those RJ45 cables:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KXM1WF2?ref...tle_1&th=1
Then I'll use the same RJ45s to connect the switch to my PC and a few laptops, which were connected via Wi-Fi. For any tasks that require uploading, I'd use my PC with the RJ45 cable, while the laptops stayed on Wi-Fi to stream media from the NAS.
That should work?
The setup is fine as long as you don’t rely on RJ45 cables to join the Mikrotik switch with your computers, since you’ve already utilized the single Ethernet port on the device. The remaining three ports are SFP+ 10Gbps, suitable for direct copper cables or fibre optic connectors, and OM3 type which can reach up to 300 meters at 10Gb/s, though most commercial OM3 products cap at around 200 meters.
The main goal of this compact Mikrotik unit is to interconnect four devices at 10Gbps using SFP+, with an optional fifth device operating at 1Gbps via RJ45 Ethernet. It can serve as a monitor port, PoE source, or as a 1Gb/s output to another switch for internet access on computers lacking native 10G NICs.
I link one of the four SFP+ ports to a 30-meter fibre connection in the computer room above, where my broadband router is installed. The router’s output is standard 1G Ethernet, and I opt for the slower 100Mbit/s option due to budget constraints—$100 per month would be too costly for 1,000Mb/s service.
I also run several DAC cables from the Mikrotik downstairs to two HP servers, which are heavy (around 50kg each) and difficult to move up the stairs, helping save floor space. The remaining SFP+ connections are shared with other machines.
Upstairs, I have a 10Gb 10-port Netgear switch connected via a 30m OM3 fibre link with SFP+ transceivers at both ends.
Some product examples:
- A typical DAC cable, about 2 meters long; longer or shorter versions are available depending on placement.
- Ensure DACs support 10Gbps, not 1Gb.
- Copper-based DACs are limited to short distances (around 0.5m) in compact racks, so I use 2m and 3m units but rarely exceed 5m.
- OM3 LC-LC fibre cables come in various lengths up to 200 meters.
- 10G LC transceivers are essential; avoid 1G models for 10G links.
- Brand new OM3 cables are preferred, though second-hand DACs and SFP+ transceivers are common.
- Fibre is typically used for short distances (0.5m) due to its limitations compared to fibre optics.
This setup allows efficient data transfer between devices at high speeds while managing costs and physical constraints.
I reviewed your links on DACs and optical fibers... it looks like even if I wanted to keep them, my apartment physically isn't suitable. The coax from the wall is fixed in my bedroom, and my apartment doesn’t let me change it. I can’t make holes or reposition cables or electrical lines. So I’m limited to using the wall outlet in my bedroom, which houses my modem and router. There’s only one RJ45 (50 meter) cable linking the router to the switch. I’m planning to install a short hallway cable from the study room next to the bedroom through a door, hiding it with cord hiders along the wall and around hinges. Currently, I only have that single long RJ45 cable from bedroom to study room, so it will be used solely for connecting the router to the switch. Even with your suggested setup using SPF cables and a Mikrotik switch, I’d still need a second SFP port NIC on my main PC in the study room. That was originally intended for a future media center, so I’m not planning to invest much there. If I stick with your plan, it would be a waste—especially since I won’t have dual-port cables for security and redundancy. Plus, I don’t have a server rack and no intention of needing one soon. I’m not interested in creating a dedicated space for it now, which would allow room changes or swapping gear later. That’s why I’ll keep using basic RJ45 cables until I find a more permanent place to set up a “server-like” area for SFP cables. I found online that SFP types or fiber optics can’t bend or handle stress, so they won’t work here. Without straight-through holes between walls, connecting long SPF or fiber cables would be impossible. Despite appreciating your setup’s affordability and speed, I can’t use it right now. For now, I’ve canceled the order for the Mikrotik switch and will get an Intel X550T2 NAS instead.
After facing difficulties navigating the dense "wall of text" (no paragraphs makes reading hard for me), here are some thoughts on fibre if you decide to use it later.
It’s not possible to bend fibre through a sharp right angle, but it can easily follow gentle curves with a surprisingly small radius—just a few inches. I’d hesitate to push fibre through trunking, particularly with those tricky sharp bends in wall-mounted patresses. I’m confident professional installers handle this and know exactly what they’re doing. They likely blow the fibre in using compressed air before securing the ends.
I didn’t bother removing floorboards or drilling holes in the ceiling to conceal the fibre link from the computer room upstairs to the servers/desktops downstairs. Instead, I simply tucked the fibre up against the wall, under the door, around a few corners, and along the staircase side, securing it with tape to the skirting board. From the hallway downstairs, the fibre runs under the kitchen door, behind the fridge freezers, and into the server room. There’s no risk of tripping over it, though I take care when vacuuming carpets.
I don’t hide both ports on my dual port SFP+ NICs because they were cheaper at the time than single-port NICs. I only use one SFP+ input out of two and don’t worry about redundancy. I can always rely on the Ethernet cables that run alongside the fibre. Adding another 30m would take just a few minutes.
I spend more time moving files between standard desktops over the 10G LAN than connecting to/from the servers, which aren’t active daily. My servers have four 1G Ethernet ports and two 10G fibre ports on the back panels. I choose the port that makes the most sense.
Upstairs, I’m using 10G Ethernet between four desktops via a Netgear switch. Downstairs, I’m connecting multiple systems with 10G fibre through the Mikrotik. The two floors are linked by two 1G Ethernet connections and one 10G fibre link. It’s not particularly elegant or hidden, but it functions.
Wishing you good luck with your decision.