High-temperature i7 7700k processor paired with H105 chipset
High-temperature i7 7700k processor paired with H105 chipset
I replaced a 2600k i7 with a 7700k i7. I purchased the new processor within a month. Before reaching maximum capacity, my temperature was around 68º in FullLoad, but now it hits 95ºc. I used an H105 cooler and Artic MX4 thermal paste, applying it three times correctly with minor adjustments in the center. I cleaned the radiators thoroughly and everything seems fine. Idle temps stayed between 28-32ºc. During FullLoad Prime95, the temperature rose to 88-95ºc within 25 minutes. Core voltage was 1.36v, PLL voltage 1.15v, core ratio 50x, cache ratio 42x, AVX disabled, clock ran at 5.0ghz under normal use and 4.8ghz during stress tests. Fans setup: top has H105 with PushPull (exhaust), rear has one cooler (exhaust), front two coolers (intake), bottom has H75 with PushPull (intake) for the GTX 1080.
The CPU tends to get quite hot since Intel stopped using solder between the IHS and the die. It seems similar to my setup, a decent overclock capable model. Adjustments in BIOS can help reduce heat and voltage, but the most effective solution is replacing the CPU IHS with liquid metal.
nitinvaid20 :
what are the temp of the AIO cooler? when you have situations like this make sure that the cooler is working properly
Tube of H105, are a little hot.
Because I used this same cooler on the 2600k and it worked perfectly.
And also the temperature in iddle is 28-30 degrees.
And I also feel a small vibration in the tubes. But one of the tubes vibrates a little more than the other.
The CPU tends to run quite hot, as Intel has stopped using solder between the IHS and the CPU die. Your unit is similar to mine, a decent overclock capable model. There are certain BIOS settings that can help reduce heat and voltage, but overall, the most effective solution remains removing the IHS and applying liquid metal.
Below is an image showing the highest temperatures achievable with my CPU, just a few seconds after completing the test. I’m using a Noctua U-14S with an air cooler, which caused the temperatures to drop rapidly.
My CPU at 5.2GHz running around 1.47 volts fluctuated between 74 and 77 degrees Celsius during a very demanding benchmark, after installing Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut (http://www.thermal-grizzly.com/en/produc...ctonaut-en).
There are several YouTube tutorials on this method; some are more effective than others. Thermal Grizzly also offers guidance for the tool.
Please note: Trim a small section at the tip of the applicator to slow down the liquid flow. For better control, hold the plunger between your thumb and forefinger at the tube’s “wings” – this gives excellent flow regulation. Otherwise, excess liquid may spray out, which is undesirable. Use only a minimal amount.
Additionally, wrap the resistors on the PCB (which will be covered by the IHS) with liquid tape or regular black electrical tape; scissors can help cut a small piece if needed.
I use delid and Relid tools from Rocket Cool (https://rockitcool.myshopify.com/products/rockit-88).
For the silicone application, I use a very thin line of head gasket maker or high-temperature silicone with an extended applicator tip. I apply it only to two sides of the bottom of the die. I avoid covering the entire underside for two reasons: 1) Two sides are sufficient to hold the CPU in place, and 2) Uncovered areas allow gas to escape under the silicone, which is why Intel leaves a small gap.
Detailed steps are available on Rocket Cool’s YouTube channel.
Without liquid metal, further temperature reduction is unlikely. Be patient, follow the instructions carefully, and you should achieve success.
The CPU tends to run hot due to the lack of solder between the IHS and the die. Many users find similar results with a moderate overclock, but lowering temperatures remains challenging. Adjusting BIOS settings can help, though the most effective method is removing the IHS and applying liquid metal. The latest benchmark shows the CPU reaching up to 1.47 volts at 5.2GHz, dropping quickly after using Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut. Some tutorials on YouTube demonstrate these steps, though quality varies. Using a small amount of silicone on the PCB can aid in sealing, but be cautious not to cover too much. Follow detailed instructions from Rocket Cool for best results.
ArctiClean [1&2] performs exceptionally well. Wipe away as much TIM as possible with a paper towel, taking care not to disturb it and avoid leaving paper bits behind. Conclude the process using coffee filters, which prevent any lint or tiny debris from remaining.
Another note, you might try ArctiClean on the old sealer Intel used. It helps soften it and makes removal easier. If you find any ArctiClean 1 at the bottom of the PCB, don’t worry—it will be fully removed with ArctiClean 2. For a spotless result, finish with 91% alcohol and coffee filters.
Note, I’m very careful and detail-oriented with computer hardware and always aim for perfection using every method available.