Hard crashes frequently; no BSODs across various hardware configurations!
Hard crashes frequently; no BSODs across various hardware configurations!
System experienced repeated reboots after forced restarts; replaced power supply unit. Successful runs on TS Extreme. Consistent issues with RAM modules. Swapped out another stick, same outcome. Temperatures remain stable. Installed a new power strip using the same outlet. Continued problems persist. Removed FPANEL header and external USB keyboard, still facing the same challenge. Attempted direct connection to the wall, tried placing it outside the case—still encountering issues. About to test without a GPU, seeking advice from others (equipment includes 10900K, Z490, multiple RAMs, 12900K, z690, 2 GPUs, and several PSUs).
It seems you're referring to electrical setup details. Could you clarify the age of the house and your location? Also, what other devices are connected to that circuit—like a microwave, fridge, or AC? Knowing this will help with the next steps. Your current unit is a Cyberpower 1500VA.
It refers to restarting a system or application repeatedly until it functions properly, often due to software glitches or configuration issues.
Tested multiple outlets and power strips; problem appeared suddenly over the last month or two. Mini fridge works on this circuit, other devices remain unaffected. Located in U.S. Iowa, older housing but not excessively neglected. Occurred during an OCP/OPP shutdown, similar to a relay being cleared.
It seems the focus is on safeguarding against voltage spikes on the AC side of the power supply unit. A UPS is a solid choice for protection. If problems arise, the UPS usually switches to battery power briefly during such disturbances. This isn't a permanent solution, but it's wise to have your gear protected, and it records events if the model supports it.
Absolutely! On various circuits, I'd expect similar behavior. The compressor accelerating would drop voltage across the whole system, triggering the PSU to shut down in anticipation of a brownout. That's why you hear the click. A UPS would provide a few seconds of protection before power stabilizes again. If you connect the USB cable and use the monitor tool, it will alert you to issues. I imagine it would react strongly whenever the mini fridge activates the compressor.
I believe the whole apartment runs on one circuit, which is why only me is experiencing problems. I tried using an SSD and it worked again. This has been happening over the past month or two. It’s really frustrating to figure it out with all the tools available. What do you think about getting a used UPS and swapping the batteries?
Honestly, fixing this has been super frustrating for me. I get the idea behind a UPS, but I didn’t want to invest another time after hearing it was a "definitely bad power supply." It actually worked well on my 10900K and 6900xt 700w Antec negz C tier models.
I've found the CyberPower PFC Sinewave series to be reliable. The CP1350PFCLCD comes with a $230 MSRP and handles 1350VA or about 880W of power. There are smaller versions in the 510W and 600W ranges, which should work if you don't need high power from a UPS. The APC Smart-UPS models also provide pure sinewave output but tend to be pricier.
Many devices operate independently using their own circuits. Microwaves usually work alongside dishwashers, refrigerators, electric stoves, and HVAC systems often have multiple units. Bathrooms typically run separately, and lights are powered distinctly from outlets. I get it you're living in an apartment, but do you have access to the circuit breaker? If not, would you like a friend with spare outlets to test? Ideally someone who doesn’t use them much. Consider running a stress test on their power supply for a short time and see if it fails. If it doesn’t, the issue is likely with your wall power. If it does, it’s probably a hardware problem—don’t waste time on a UPS unless you’re sure. As for UPS units, I really like the CyberPower 1500VA series (I own around a dozen across different models). They’re built to handle as much power as a computer would, and they’re only about 20% more expensive than the cheapest option.