Gather insights and engage in conversations about premium water cooling and hardware solutions.
Gather insights and engage in conversations about premium water cooling and hardware solutions.
Now my question is: can we fit enough radiators into this case to keep all his gear at a safe temperature (under 60°C)? Or should I suggest he switch cases, even though it’s already delivered?
I’d probably prefer changing the case instead, just so he has more space for a custom loop and additional radiators. But with such expensive hardware, I really want to hear opinions from others who’ve watercooled similar setups. Since I haven’t watercooled anything like this before, I’m not sure it’s worth it. Also, he’s really attached to his current case, so convincing him to switch without solid proof or expert advice would be tough.
Please share your thoughts below, and any feedback from people who own multiple watercooled systems would be super helpful. Thanks!
Hey everyone, just wanted to share what I’m seeing here. My friend is really determined to build the most complicated computer possible. He’s already got an I7 6700K, a ROG motherboard (which costs more than the CPU), 32GB of 3200Mhz RAM, and two Titan Xs. His only use for the PC is playing Minecraft and watching YouTube. His dad works on high-end 3D modeling for his business, but that’s not the main focus. He’s aiming for a fully custom setup, but he didn’t mention it before ordering the case (the Phanteks Ethoo Evolv). He thought he could cool everything with just one 240 radiator, so I was surprised—and even a bit moved—to see he wasn’t joking.
Now my question is: can we fit enough radiators into this case to keep all his gear at a safe temperature (under 60°C)? Or should I suggest he switch cases, even though it’s already delivered?
I’d probably prefer changing the case instead, just so he has more space for a custom loop and additional radiators. But with such expensive hardware, I really want to hear opinions from others who’ve watercooled similar setups. Since I haven’t watercooled anything like this before, I’m not sure it’s worth it. Also, he’s really attached to his current case, so convincing him to switch without solid proof or expert advice would be tough.
Please share your thoughts below, and any feedback from people who own multiple watercooled systems would be super helpful. Thanks!
And keep in mind that the rated noise level for a fan only applies at its highest speed. Unless you intend to run them at full power, they will be significantly quieter. When you examine the fan specifications (EK Vardar F4, Noctua F12, and FD HP-12), you'll notice they follow a fairly consistent pattern with respect to RPM. The HP-12 would match the airflow of the Vardar at higher speeds, the F12 would provide similar pressure levels as the Vardar when spinning faster, and the Vardar would be comparable in quietness to the Noctua if it operated more slowly. The HP-12, however, deviates slightly from this trend, generating more noise relative to pressure compared to the other two models.
Yes, it will be feasible. He'll need to install a 240mm radius mount and a 360mm radius top mount. I recommend using EKWB parts along with XPSC 240mm and 360mm rads, since you can leverage EK's QDC feature to connect graphics water blocks to the CPU loop. Advise him to acquire three Fractal Design HP-12 fans and two HP-14s, all positioned internally to push air outward, including one 140mm HP-14 at the rear. If he uses that setup, installing the S&K Photorealism mod would be a good idea—it really stands out. 😉
An additional radiator later on wouldn't cause too much trouble.
I'm considering a 280mm front instead of 240mm, since the case specs allow it. This would provide more surface area, but what FPI and thickness suggestions do you have? I was thinking about a 45mm thick unit (about as dense as possible) and would appreciate your thoughts.
Thanks for the advice, I hope you're not too concerned.
😉
UniPopCorn
04-07-2016, 04:35 PM #4The airflow concept seems ideal, placing the intake above the IO shield and directing all exhaust out. I'm a bit concerned about the temperatures, as from my travels around the web it's recommended to use 240mm for each OCed piece of hardware. Given we're dealing with large components, the heat they generate will be significant, though I might be mistaken. Still, budget is always a factor.
An additional radiator later on wouldn't cause too much trouble.
I'm considering a 280mm front instead of 240mm, since the case specs allow it. This would provide more surface area, but what FPI and thickness suggestions do you have? I was thinking about a 45mm thick unit (about as dense as possible) and would appreciate your thoughts.
Thanks for the advice, I hope you're not too concerned.
😉
280mm is fine, I was trying to say that above, but I meant 240 instead! xD
It's odd I talked about fans for a 280mm, sorry about that.
Keep the thread open, it's always nice to hear more opinions.
AquaTrees123
04-07-2016, 04:54 PM #5No problem, Titans don't generate that much heat.
280mm is fine, I was trying to say that above, but I meant 240 instead! xD
It's odd I talked about fans for a 280mm, sorry about that.
Keep the thread open, it's always nice to hear more opinions.
If he lacks knowledge about watercooling, building loop pieces separately can lead to missing details or using mismatched components. Check EK's new kits— I examined two of them. Each includes all required parts in the box, which is helpful for beginners. If he doesn’t overclock frequently, a single 360 rad should be enough. However, if he wants maximum performance, you’d need at least 480mm. The most economical approach is to purchase the L360 kit and then add an extra PE240 or CE280 rad with suitable fans and two compression fittings (16/10 for the L kits). Everything should stay under $400, provided his GPUs already have waterblocks and fittings. If he prefers spending more, the P360 kit offers a superior waterblock, larger reservoir, and a stronger pump. Just note it uses 13/10 fittings instead of 16/10.
Anyway, those kits could be a good idea, but I don't think any Titans come with waterblocks already installed. Also, he wants to overclock a lot, so I think the 360mm + 280mm setup would be better. I'll definitely check it out, but he mentioned doing some serious overclocking (he was watching a YouTuber's PCs and thinks he can too :rolls eyes
. So it might mean changing the fittings if needed, unless I can persuade him otherwise. Thanks for the reply, it's really helpful.
Spaceface16518
04-14-2016, 09:37 PM #7Dude, this person is getting two Titans and a motherboard worth over 600 euros, believe me when I say money isn't an issue. 😉
Anyway, those kits could be a good idea, but I don't think any Titans come with waterblocks already installed. Also, he wants to overclock a lot, so I think the 360mm + 280mm setup would be better. I'll definitely check it out, but he mentioned doing some serious overclocking (he was watching a YouTuber's PCs and thinks he can too :rolls eyes. So it might mean changing the fittings if needed, unless I can persuade him otherwise. Thanks for the reply, it's really helpful.
So I taught my friend some basics about watercooling and he put together this list. I managed to get him to buy just one big fan now, and if needed he can add more later with another one. I checked the list and don’t see any major issues (personally, I think the resistance is a bit low), but I’d appreciate your thoughts too. Would you recommend any fans instead of the vardars? Is the radiator really of poor quality? Any suggestions for improvements? Thanks again for your help.
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-140-re...-incl-pump
For fans, consider the Fractal Design HP-12s or HP-14s, they appear well while offering similar performance to Noctua static pressure oriented fans and running quietly.
It is indeed a bit small, obtain this:
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-140-re...-incl-pump
For fans, consider the Fractal Design HP-12s or HP-14s, they appear well while offering similar performance to Noctua static pressure oriented fans and running quietly.
The fan has a 140mm size, even though 120mm mounts are offered. The actual dimensions remain 140mm x 140mm, so you can only fit one on a single 120mm mount, such as the back of your case. You cannot place them side by side on a radiator with 120mm spacing. The optimal arrangement would be to position one fan at each end of a 360mm radiator, leaving the center empty.
The Vardars are perfectly suitable for this setup since they were built specifically for radiators. HP fans operate quieter because their rotation speed is limited. Manufacturers provide fan specifications for maximum performance, so higher speeds usually mean louder operation. For example, the Vardar measures 33.5 dBA at 2200 rpm compared to the HP-12’s 31.7 dBA at 1800 rpm. At those speeds, they would sound almost identical. The F4 Vardar offers a higher top speed, greater airflow, and increased static pressure if needed.
The XE radiator is 60mm thick—more than double the thickness of standard 25mm models. You’ll need maximum pressure to push through it.
Because of its thickness, ensure sufficient clearance inside your case. Most liquid cooling systems require at least 50mm space (25mm for the radiator and 25mm for bolted fans). The XE is already thicker than that. For fans, expect around 85mm clearance. You might need a case designed to accommodate mounting fans externally under the shroud while placing the radiator internally, but you’ll have to find a suitable option.
Lastly, adding a second GPU later isn’t practical with standard hard tubing—it often demands replacing a significant portion of the tubing.
Do not use the HP-14 with that radiator.
The fan has a 140mm size, even though 120mm mounts are offered. The actual dimensions remain 140mm x 140mm, so you can only fit one on a single 120mm mount, such as the back of your case. You cannot place them side by side on a radiator with 120mm spacing. The optimal arrangement would be to position one fan at each end of a 360mm radiator, leaving the center empty.
The Vardars are perfectly suitable for this setup since they were built specifically for radiators. HP fans operate quieter because their rotation speed is limited. Manufacturers provide fan specifications for maximum performance, so higher speeds usually mean louder operation. For example, the Vardar measures 33.5 dBA at 2200 rpm compared to the HP-12’s 31.7 dBA at 1800 rpm. At those speeds, they would sound almost identical. The F4 Vardar offers a higher top speed, greater airflow, and increased static pressure if needed.
The XE radiator is 60mm thick—more than double the thickness of standard 25mm models. You’ll need maximum pressure to push through it.
Because of its thickness, ensure sufficient clearance inside your case. Most liquid cooling systems require at least 50mm space (25mm for the radiator and 25mm for bolted fans). The XE is already thicker than that. For fans, expect around 85mm clearance. You might need a case designed to accommodate mounting fans externally under the shroud while placing the radiator internally, but you’ll have to find a suitable option.
Lastly, adding a second GPU later isn’t practical with standard hard tubing—it often demands replacing a significant portion of the tubing.