First time watercooling n00b
First time watercooling n00b
Hello community,
I'm a newcomer to water-cooling and wanted some input on the parts I'm considering. Here’s what I’ve got so far:
Components I’ve purchased or plan to buy:
- NZXT S340 Elite (white)
- AMD Ryzen 1700
- AMD Vega GPU (awaiting release)
- MSI B350 Tomahawk Arctic
- 16Gb 3200mhz Corsair Vengeance (white)
- NZXT Hue+ lighting
- XFX XTR-850W PSU
- 12mm chrome-plated copper pipes
- XSPC EX280 radiator
- Barrow pump
- CPU block
For the cooling setup, I’m taking a somewhat unconventional route and would like advice on whether this will actually work. Any tips or warnings would be greatly appreciated:
I’m planning to use 12mm chrome-plated copper pipe fittings (cutting the copper instead of bending it, using a hacksaw):
- elbow joints
These would connect the cut pipe sections.
For linking the pipe into the radiator, pump, and CPU block, I intend to use:
- Barrow elbow joint
- Standard fitting
My preferred color scheme is white/silver. I’ve never watercooled before and don’t know anyone with experience, so any guidance would be invaluable.
Thanks a lot!
P.S. If you have any suggestions, please keep in mind I’m based in the UK and sometimes prices can be different compared to US users.
Yes, many people dislike Plexi for that reason, so I’d recommend going with acetal instead; you can always paint it afterward.
The pipe cutter works well, but you’ll still need to clean up the cuts inside to avoid flow loss and noise-causing turbulence. Make sure the edges are smooth outside to protect the fitting 'O' rings.
What I meant by decoupling was something like this:
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/modmymach...l#comments
Or you can use a medium-density foam, though it’s less effective.
I also suggest checking out these options:
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ek-water-...95-ek.html
It connects to the...
Are you certain you'll achieve the desired results with a $9.00 water block?
It could function if the hard tube fittings truly seal against copper pipes and you can achieve a completely leak-proof joint using the elbow connectors. My main worry centers on the pump and CPU block, especially with multiple 90-degree elbow connections in the loop. You'll likely need a decent pump to move coolant through it, as the cheap Chinese CPU block is made of aluminum. While it won't fail outright, its performance will be poor. Mixing metals in a liquid loop is problematic—check for 'Galvanic corrosion' to understand the risks.
biglizard :
Do you really believe you can achieve the performance you want from a $9.00 water block?
About the water block:
I don’t have much idea, it just looks like a copper block to connect to the CPU?
What are your thoughts on that instead?
Barrow block
coozie7 :
My main worries are about the pump and the CPU block, especially with several 90-degree elbow fittings in the loop. You’ll need a decent pump to push coolant through it, since the cheap Chinese CPU block is made of aluminum.
I think the CPU block should be copper (at least, based on its description). What do you think about the one above?
Regarding the pump, it’s rated at 960L/H with an output lift of 5.5M—do you think that’s sufficient for a loop with many corners?
Also, this loop will only cool the CPU, not the GPU.
The pump's strength is sufficient for just a single CPU in operation.
I've consistently followed the advice of avoiding cost-cutting when constructing a loop. Affordable options can be problematic, and I strongly caution against using cheaper components. Placing liquid inside your computer isn't something to experiment with—it carries risks of leaks.
If you've seen positive feedback online about the products you're considering, and you've experienced no leaks or problems with the loop over time (such as residue buildup or discoloration), then it might be safe.
Conduct thorough research on mixing metals, as suggested by earlier users, including the fittings.
Not every CPU block is identical... therefore, I wouldn't choose the most inexpensive one.
Make sure you use an additive for the distilled water you plan to use in the loop. Products like EK's clear concentrate contain additives to maintain cleanliness. If you're using colored coolant just for visibility in your results, there are other colored options available too, though some may be superior or inferior compared to others.
The pump specifications seem acceptable, but without proper control it might become quite loud. I hope the PWM function works; if not, there are alternatives to reduce its speed or manage it manually.
I'm extremely hesitant about recommending the Barrow CPU block, as its fins are spaced far apart and it likely won't perform better than the standard AMD air cooler. However, I suggest considering a higher-end alternative.
My primary worry is ensuring the pipe and fittings are properly sealed. It's crucial to match the pipe diameter with the fittings. Although the parts you've mentioned appear compatible, proceed with great caution after completing the loop and before filling and bleeding it.
Some general tips:
- Opt for a good pre-mixed coolant or combine concentrate with distilled water. Additives help maintain cleanliness, prevent corrosion, and stop algae growth.
- Copper pipes are naturally soft; use a fine-pitched blade with 32 TPI for best results.
- Hacksaw blades should be set to cut forward, not backward, to improve control.
- Apply gentle, steady strokes without applying pressure. Let the blade do the work without rushing.
- Protect the pipes and chrome finish by using soft rubber jaws in your vice. Cut an inner tube and secure it with a small amount of silicon sealant.
- After cutting, clean the area with a fine file and a 600-grit wet/dry paper to ensure a smooth, clean surface—especially important for the exterior to avoid damaging the 'O' ring seals.
Remember the old saying: 'Measure twice, cut once.' Plan the loop carefully; every detail matters here. Be sure about the pump's position and radiator placement before moving forward. Also, keep in mind that the pump may generate some noise, so consider using decouplers to reduce it if needed.
Marko55 mentioned that not every CPU block is the same and wouldn't choose the cheapest option. Coozie7 expressed hesitation about using the Barrow CPU block due to its spacing and performance expectations, recommending a higher-end alternative. They thanked everyone for their quick replies and apologized for being slow. Marko55 then explored other CPU water blocks outside of Chinese brands and found the EK Supremacy MX (plexi) and Plexi versions. They noted concerns about Plexi's leak issues and considered Acetal as a safer choice, leaning toward it for a white build. They also decided against using a hacksaw for cutting copper pipes, opting instead for a pipe cutter for a cleaner cut. They appreciated the decouplers' design and mentioned they would share a picture if the setup works well.
Yep, quite a few don't like Plexi for that reason, I'm one of them so I'd suggest you go acetal, you could always paint it after all.
Good idea with the pipe cutter but you'll still need to clean up the cut-inside to prevent flow sapping and noise inducing turbulence, outside to ensure the edges are good and smooth so they don't damage the fitting 'O' rings.
Actually by decoupling I meant something like this:
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/modmymach...l#comments
Or you can use a medium density foam but it's not as effective.
I also suggest you get one of these:
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ek-water-...95-ek.html
it hooks into the main ATX (motherboard) plug of the PSU and allows you to run the pump without power reaching the rest of the system.
A few other suggestions:
When you come to fill the system, only use pure, distilled water, contrary to popular belief, it's actually a very poor conductor of electricity and will evaporate leaving no residue, so if there IS a leak it won't be fatal, just switch off, dry the effected areas as well as possible then allow the system to dry for a couple of days.
Run the system for a couple of hours at least to be sure it's leak free, when, and only when you're 100% drop forged steel certain it's leak free, add the coolant dye/concentrate.
And you must use some sort of additive to control corrosion/oxidation/discolouration and also to keep algae under control, and yes, the little darlings WILL get in! Apart from looking ugly in the res tank they'll block the waterblock internals and once established they can be hard to remove.
If you're in ANY doubt that the hard tube fittings won't seal against the copper pipes try an external build first, nothing elaborate or big, just pump/res>CPU block>res and run the pump off a spare PSU lead this way if it leaks all you'll get is a wet carpet.
😉