Find the model name of your motherboard.
Find the model name of your motherboard.
He has a motherboard without a label and it won’t power on. It makes a Morse code signal—one long beep followed by two short ones repeated. One top case fan isn’t working, while others spin and lights stay on. The PC didn’t boot before. Dust might be the issue. The system functioned normally an hour ago. After installing a new SSD, the symptoms appeared again, even when switching back to the old drive.
The board has a name displayed below the GPU. Remove the GPU and place it directly in its position. It's an ASUS model from around 2014, which is a memory issue. This isn't resolving the problem, so clean the system first. Also, reinsert memory and test each slot for proper operation.
Start with single sticks in each slot and check functionality. If it only works in specific slots, those areas are non-functional. If it responds only to certain sticks, the remaining slot is faulty. If nothing activates, possibilities range from motherboard failure to CPU memory controller issues, or simultaneous RAM stick failures (rare but doable). Without additional verified hardware, it's unclear which exact cause applies.
Searching for that model number brings up a specific page on the ASUS website. To diagnose Memory (RAM) issues, start by removing all but one memory stick and attempt to boot the PC. Then move that single stick into each available slot on the motherboard until you either find a slot that allows booting or run out of slots. If running out, repeat with another stick, assuming multiple sticks were present. The goal is to isolate whether the problem lies with the RAM sticks or the slots by systematically testing them one by one. If none of the sticks work in any slot, it suggests both components may be faulty. Subsequent steps could involve testing this computer’s RAM in another functional machine OR using compatible RAM to evaluate the motherboard’s condition.
We attempted to fix it in various ways but nothing improved. Both RAM sticks were present in each slot after the SSD swap. This occurred right after installing the new SSD, and we double-checked all connections. We also ensured cables were fully seated and even reinstalled the old SSD. One fan wasn’t spinning while others did, which raised questions about the SSD’s Windows status versus the new one. The presence of Windows on the new SSD might matter. Would resetting the CMOS be a viable option?
The software isn't related to whether the system will boot into BIOS, so you might want to reset the CMOS to check. Follow the steps in the motherboard user guide on the manufacturer’s site. Share your experience.
We attempted to reset the CMOS right away, following the instructions in the manual, but the issue remains unchanged. Tomorrow we plan to test various methods such as removing RAM from another computer, swapping out the PSU, and experimenting with other possibilities, just trying anything that comes to mind. I suspect my friend might have accidentally damaged something during an SSD replacement, which explains why it stops working even after switching back to the original SSD. Thank you for your assistance and advice so far—it really helps.