Does your system have a fix for overheating without needing additional components?
Does your system have a fix for overheating without needing additional components?
I have been working on fixing a bunch of system problems because my old components are no longer performing well. Through several purchases that haven’t been thoroughly researched, I now own these parts: CPU – Intel Core i9 9900K, Motherboard – MSI z370 Gaming Plus (MS-7B61, UEFI version 1.A0; originally part of the system), Cooling – Corsair iCUE H150i ELITE CAPELLIX.
Based on what I’ve read, it seems I’m facing overheating issues. Running my three radiator fans at 70%-100% capacity keeps my idle system around 30°C. When I run the Prime95 stress test from the provided link, individual cores heat up to over 80°C within fifteen minutes as the overall package temperature approaches that level. I’ve also seen HWMonitor show the CPU VCore fluctuating between 1.1V and 1.472V while maintaining around 5GHz per core under full load (though it doesn’t stay there constantly, ranging from 4998 to 5006 MHz). Additionally, my motherboard’s temperature sensors labeled CPUTIN and TMPIN5 can reach 100°C in 15 minutes, with TMPIN3 reaching 80°C.
I’m really struggling here. I’ve been assembling systems since 2008 for myself and friends, so these problems are unfamiliar to me. My main hope is to undervolt the processor without needing to replace parts or buy new ones. I attempted the steps from the guide linked, adjusting UEFI settings to try lower voltages that might keep speeds similar. The first attempt after memtest set the CPU VCore to 1.066V and boost multiplier to 100 MHz x 50, which surprisingly let my motherboard run at 3.6 GHz despite my settings. My second try using information from another source didn’t boot.
Anyone have ideas on how to resolve this without swapping components yet? If I do need to replace parts, is there a way to swap just the AIO or the motherboard to improve CPU performance?
Occasionally, particularly with high-end setups, it seems there really isn't a suitable solution without incurring extra costs. I believe you made the correct decision overall. If you manage to position the radiator front in an intake setup and ensure the hoses are correctly placed at the bottom, you might notice a 5-8°C improvement in temperature differences. This could provide some extra margin for your clocks, though it’s unlikely to be essential given your current thermal situation.
Where is the radiator positioned? Are the fans arranged to draw air in from outside or to expel it from inside, meaning intake or exhaust? Are they placed on the side nearest the exterior or on the inner surface of the radiator?
Case:
https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categ...40...9011030-WW
Additional Fans:
https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categ...SP...9050094-WW
The radiator is positioned at the front of the case, with tubes extending upwards, and the fans are arranged for intake along the interior. The remaining fans are placed for exhaust, located on the upper and rear sections of the case.
Based on information from sources such as
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BbGomv195sk, I understand it is preferable to position the radiator tubes downward. Until I discover a suitable vertical GPU mount kit—either in a physical store or through an online retailer—I am hesitant about potential scams. I also favor having the intake fans positioned against the case to draw fresh air as close to the exterior as possible; this was my original setup. Unfortunately, the tube orientation did not allow fitting the top fans inside. This situation is reflected in the picture you mentioned.
I was monitoring HWiNFO64 concurrently with a Prime95 stress test. The majority of the readings in the Maximum column correspond to those results.
OK....ALL airspace in that rad/tube setup will be positioned exactly where the tubes are located at the top.
"I understand it's far more advantageous to place the radiator tubes lower."
This is completely accurate.
I think it's better up at the top of the reservoir than in the pump (though I take this on other's authority as opposed to knowing anything myself). I've heard no gurgling. The AIO has managed to cool the CPU as much as 20 C in a second after I stop the stress test. The AIO does seem to be doing SOMETHING... just not enough.
The AIO also can't do anything about the VRMs which I have seen described on various sites using expletives.
It is definitely happening "something".
However, your presence is because of a problem.
Correct the obvious points first.
Water requires 100c to boil. You're still not there.
Your screen displays a peak of 84c during a stress test—seems fine.
Interestingly, 100c is also the threshold at which the CPU will slow down or shut off for safety.
For fun, experiment by leaving the side panel open and blowing air through the interior. If performance improves, consider upgrading to a better cooling case.
You might notice if the front air filter affects results.
I'm unsure if this requires flipping your radiator before any solution works. The chipset heat sink, SATA ports, GPU length, and tube lengths suggest you can't route the radiator tubes under, over, or around the GPU. You're searching for a vertical GPU mount kit but aren't sure when one will be available. I'll try to find a workaround that isn't blocked.
I plan to open a case, place a box fan inside, and run Prime95 again. If I manage to figure it out, I'll share a full report.
I had to halt the test in just under 11 minutes. The CPU package reached 95°C. A motherboard temperature sensor (MOS?) failed at 100°C and remained elevated until I stopped the test.
Apparently, increasing airflow inside the case didn't improve things, even after removing all grills and filters.
I wasn't able to create a log, so here are some HWiNFO64 screenshots.