Does my Copper Block have any issues with water cooling?
Does my Copper Block have any issues with water cooling?
Yes, I agree they appear fresh. How long did you keep the 50% vinegar solution in the loop? Typically, I’d limit it to 25-30% vinegar and only use up to 50% for a brief duration.
I still don’t believe the pitting is a cause for concern, and although it looks rough, it shouldn’t worsen or affect cooling performance—provided you don’t apply any cleaning solution continuously over time.
Make sure all components (rads, fittings, tubing, blocks, etc.) are cleaned thoroughly to remove any residue, particularly if storing the loop before refilling.
Process the item first, then resend the image. It appears to have a lot of debris, but it shouldn't damage the block. If it still looks that way after cleaning, consider replacing the block.
Process it first before sending another picture. It seems to have a lot of debris, but it shouldn’t seriously damage the block. If it still looks that way after cleaning, it might be better to replace the block. Vinegar and a toothbrush—should you let it sit overnight or just begin brushing?
It depends on the specific issue, but beginning with a firm toothbrush and regular soap is safe. If that fails, vinegar works well; copper is less reactive so an overnight soak followed by another scrub might help. If none of these succeed, consider using an electrical contact cleaner—available at auto parts or electrical supply stores—but always use it outside or in a well-ventilated area away from ignition sources. If that doesn’t work, try a needle or pin and run it along the cooling grooves.
The approach varies depending on the specific item, but beginning with a firm toothbrush and plain soap is a safe start. If that fails, vinegar works well; copper is less reactive so an overnight soak followed by scrubbing may help. For further issues, consider using electrical contact cleaner—available at auto parts or electrical supply stores—but ensure it’s used safely, away from ignition sources. If none of these work, a needle or pin can be inserted along the cooling grooves.
Hi friend,
Thanks for your advice. Tonight I intend to purchase two items: white (corn) vinegar for the vinegar and salt cleaning method, and also "Bar Keepers Friend" cleaner, which is said to be effective for copper. After cleaning, I plan to let it sit in a water and baking soda solution to neutralize any residue.
Unknown to me about Bar Keepers Friend, but standard guidelines still apply with various cleaners; follow the instructions carefully and avoid mixing them, rinse the vinegar thoroughly first, then proceed with the other cleaner, and repeat rinsing before applying baking soda.
BarKeeper's friend is a type of 'metals' cleaner often used for stainless steel, akin to Bon Ami or Comet. They work similarly in application but use different cleaning agents. I would suggest using a toothbrush—this should remove most of the residue. It's hard to say whether it's due to microbial buildup, coolant sediment, or a chemical precipitate.
coozie7 :
Depends on exactly what it is, but you won't hurt by starting with a stiff toothbrush and just plain soap.
If that doesn't work, vinegar is fine, copper isn't that reactive so an overnight soak followed by another scrub may shift it.
If they don't work try using some electrical contact cleaner, either an auto parts store or electrical supply store should have it, just be sure to use it either outside or in a WELL ventilated room and away from any source of ignition.
Still no go? Try a needle or pin and run it along the cooling grooves.
rubix_1011 :
BarKeeper's friend is a kind of 'metals' cleaner that is typically used for stainless steel, similar to Bon Ami or Comet. They are similar in use, but have different cleaning chemicals.
I would at least recommend a toothbrush...I would imagine this will get most of the grime out. I can't quite tell if it's microbial build up or if it's coolant 'sediment' or precipitate.
Hi friends, I have an update. I bought some Distilled Vinegar and used a new toothbrush I had. Soaked the copper block in Vinegar for 20 minutes. Then started brushing and brushing and brushing. The black did not go away. It was just a little better than when I started.
So I went to step two. Barkeeper's Friend. I rinsed my block well with water. Then put some of the BarKeepers powder on it and started brushing. WOW! It came out so easily and now my copper block looks nearly brand new. Here's a pic of what Barkeeper's Friend cleaning powder is capable of:
NOTE
: As you can see in the pic, the right edge of the fins still have some powder in inbetween the fins. I'll clean that tonight. To be honest, you can't really see it with your eye. But when you take a picture, then you see it. I just noticed it now looking at the picture.
As a reference, here is the block again, but how it looked dirty:
http://i67.tinypic.com/2extwug.jpg
So, the vinegar barely did anything to clean it. But this Barkeeper's Friend is AMAZING!
I have two questions now.....
1.) The backside (smooth part that gets thermal pasted to CPU) of the copper block is pictured here:
http://i64.tinypic.com/29xsuvb.jpg
Thoughts on the condition of it? Bit of a far cry when I first peeled the plastic coating off of it 5 years ago to thermal paste it to my CPU
🙁
2.) I use an XSPC custom watercooling loop. The head unit that that the copper block attaches to is pictured here:
http://i66.tinypic.com/zx1z07.jpg
That is a picture of when it was first opened up, so it is dirty.
When I went to clean that inside, that metal strip easily detached. I put no force on it, it just came out. Pic here:
http://i67.tinypic.com/igywp0.jpg
As you can see the metal contact strip has 4 notches along the edges that correspond to 4 bump outs on the actual head unit. They kind of hold it on when I try putting it back on. Pic here:
http://i64.tinypic.com/2ymgggy.jpg
Anyways, does this metal contact strip need to be adhered back to the head unit? What kind of adhesive should I use? Or should I just put it back on the notches and carefully try to place the whole thing back together. I forgot to take a picture of the back side of that metal contact strip but it clearly looks like adhesive was used to join it to the plastic head unit. And over time and heat that adhesive just gave out.
THANK YOU for all the help
The plate with the slot serves as the directional nozzle for input flow across the block, guiding the flow downward over the die. It may also be applied to the CPU side of the block if the surface remains intact without damage.
That plate with the slot is the directional nozzle for the input flow over the block. It guides the flow downward across the die. You can also apply that cleaner on the CPU side of the block, provided there’s no gouging or pitting on the surface. Ahh yes, that’s a much clearer explanation. I struggled to put it together. The directional nozzle plate seems to have been stuck to the plastic. Is this normal? Should I use some kind of adhesive or something?
Also, regarding the CPU side of the copper block, I was worried about damaging micro-scratches from cleaning. Wouldn’t it be harmful to use a toothbrush or similar on that area because it could worsen the situation? My block has only stains, no gouging or pitting.