Determining if the issue lies with the port or the cable.
Determining if the issue lies with the port or the cable.
I checked the setup and looked into the connections. To find out if the problem lies with the port or the cable, you can test each port individually by disconnecting the modem and checking for internet access. If one works while others don’t, the issue is likely the port. If none work, the cable may be faulty.
The easiest approach without extra tools is to change the cable to a known good port and check if the issue continues. Try Switch Port 1 to Kitchen and Switch Port 2 to Den. If the network fails in the kitchen, replace it with a working port (Switch Port 1 to Den, Switch Port 2 to Kitchen). If Den functions and the kitchen doesn’t, the problem likely lies in the cabling or LAN ports on your switch.
For clarity, I'll use "LAN port" for your router connections and "network drop" for the wall outlet. You can still proceed with the same steps. Replace the faulty Ethernet cable from the router to the non-working network drop with a verified LAN port on the router. At the same time, reroute the working Ethernet cable from the network drop back to the LAN port that was causing issues.
Check the wall outlet in the attic. Test if the cable works there. If it does, the issue is likely with the cable itself.
Unless the person who set up the network made a mistake while connecting the twisted wires to the plate, a failure in that plate is uncommon. You might find cable testers useful for checking continuity and ensuring the stands were connected correctly. If any twisted pair is out of sequence, it can lead to no network connection.
According to @BlueChinchillaEatingDorito, pay attention to the connections at the end. Remove the wall plate and verify that the wires are fully inserted into the keystone jack. Check the wiring layout—most setups use the 'B' pattern (about 90% of cases). Inspect the connector on the attic side to confirm all contacts are tight and making good contact with the wires. Review the wire colors against the reference image provided; ensure they match the sequence: orange/white, orange, green/white, blue, blue/white, green, white/brown, brown. If you're not sure, capture some photos and share them here. Assuming the RJ45 end and wall plate are correctly connected, use a wire tester or tone to verify continuity and identify the correct pairing. This process is simple but crucial—run tests before finalizing. If you find any faults like shorts or damaged wires, it might not seem serious until you try plugging something in. It’s best to get a proper tester and double-check everything before proceeding.
A network tester will indicate whether the cable is damaged or improperly connected. It cannot confirm if the cable is fully broken. For cost-effective solutions, you can cut an Ethernet cable in half and remove the insulation from the ends. Attach the connected ends to jacks. Then link two wires at one of the stripped ends by twisting them in groups of four. Use a multimeter to test for continuity at the other end. If no signal appears, connect a tone tester and trace the wire until you locate the break.
A cable certifier can indicate how far along the run a wire is damaged, but these services are significantly pricier than simple continuity tests. They also confirm whether a cable’s connection meets standards, which the basic indicator you see wouldn’t. (The wires are too loose, and there shouldn’t be loose ends hanging from the connector. The person who made that connection likely did it incorrectly.) Unless you’re willing to spend hundreds for a tool you’ll use once, or you can rent or borrow one, you probably don’t need it. It’s usually cheaper to replace the entire run. (About 99% of the time, the issue is a bad connection, not a problem somewhere in the cable.)