F5F Stay Refreshed Hardware Desktop Damaged a USB 3.0 port on a solid motherboard

Damaged a USB 3.0 port on a solid motherboard

Damaged a USB 3.0 port on a solid motherboard

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robindv
Junior Member
2
05-10-2017, 01:43 AM
#1
While removing the PSU cable, I accidentally dislodged the USB 3.0 plug from my motherboard. The board isn’t in use anymore, but I’m considering selling it or giving it to a friend. Do you know any simple solutions to fix this issue similar to a USB 3.0 PCIe connection? I believe MSI requires a $45 return and replacement fee for such items, so I’m looking for more affordable options. It’s an MSI Z370 gaming M5.
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robindv
05-10-2017, 01:43 AM #1

While removing the PSU cable, I accidentally dislodged the USB 3.0 plug from my motherboard. The board isn’t in use anymore, but I’m considering selling it or giving it to a friend. Do you know any simple solutions to fix this issue similar to a USB 3.0 PCIe connection? I believe MSI requires a $45 return and replacement fee for such items, so I’m looking for more affordable options. It’s an MSI Z370 gaming M5.

C
cyberbarn9
Junior Member
14
05-10-2017, 06:09 PM
#2
It's the upper-right option.
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cyberbarn9
05-10-2017, 06:09 PM #2

It's the upper-right option.

C
109
05-10-2017, 07:41 PM
#3
It appears the connection is damaged or bent. There remains a USB 3.0 header, which should be sufficient for most users. You might still think about giving it to a friend, just let them know clearly. Alternatively, you could attempt to solder a replacement yourself, though I don’t advise that. If you plan to stop using the port entirely, ensure the broken pin doesn’t contact any other pins.
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CapnCrunchz559
05-10-2017, 07:41 PM #3

It appears the connection is damaged or bent. There remains a USB 3.0 header, which should be sufficient for most users. You might still think about giving it to a friend, just let them know clearly. Alternatively, you could attempt to solder a replacement yourself, though I don’t advise that. If you plan to stop using the port entirely, ensure the broken pin doesn’t contact any other pins.

J
Jimbub
Junior Member
8
05-10-2017, 09:32 PM
#4
The pin isn’t working at all. I believe my soldering abilities are solid, which might help, but I’m leaning toward cutting about $50 from the cost.
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Jimbub
05-10-2017, 09:32 PM #4

The pin isn’t working at all. I believe my soldering abilities are solid, which might help, but I’m leaning toward cutting about $50 from the cost.

S
Shadowbird_
Member
71
05-11-2017, 06:36 AM
#5
I know of some motherboards where those pins are soldered right through the entire PCB. With careful heating and fine motor skills, you might be able to resolder and replace if you can see the traces on the other side of the board. If there are seemingly no correlating traces present, it's a lost cause. You can get an idea of a header that goes through the PCB here . Take a look at the 5th picture and see if what you find on the other side of the board is similar. You have another connector, I wouldn't sweat it.
S
Shadowbird_
05-11-2017, 06:36 AM #5

I know of some motherboards where those pins are soldered right through the entire PCB. With careful heating and fine motor skills, you might be able to resolder and replace if you can see the traces on the other side of the board. If there are seemingly no correlating traces present, it's a lost cause. You can get an idea of a header that goes through the PCB here . Take a look at the 5th picture and see if what you find on the other side of the board is similar. You have another connector, I wouldn't sweat it.

B
betomblok
Member
196
05-20-2017, 04:41 PM
#6
I believe the openings might be too small and the plastic covering could be an issue. What are your thoughts on this?
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betomblok
05-20-2017, 04:41 PM #6

I believe the openings might be too small and the plastic covering could be an issue. What are your thoughts on this?

J
johnsrealm
Member
176
05-20-2017, 06:52 PM
#7
The top pin is an ID marker—it seems unrelated to any connection, likely there just to stop incorrect placement of the connector. The header features two rows, each containing pins for a USB 3 device. The upper row shifts left by one pin (or the lower row moves right), in the worst case, the USB 3 port linked to the top row may fail or only function in USB 2.0 mode, while the lower row remains unaffected and should work.
J
johnsrealm
05-20-2017, 06:52 PM #7

The top pin is an ID marker—it seems unrelated to any connection, likely there just to stop incorrect placement of the connector. The header features two rows, each containing pins for a USB 3 device. The upper row shifts left by one pin (or the lower row moves right), in the worst case, the USB 3 port linked to the top row may fail or only function in USB 2.0 mode, while the lower row remains unaffected and should work.

H
HCFEotw
Member
132
05-20-2017, 10:06 PM
#8
Great job! The analysis was helpful.
H
HCFEotw
05-20-2017, 10:06 PM #8

Great job! The analysis was helpful.

M
Minigunner500
Member
235
05-22-2017, 01:52 PM
#9
I located this and feel more at ease now. Appreciate the help from all of you.
M
Minigunner500
05-22-2017, 01:52 PM #9

I located this and feel more at ease now. Appreciate the help from all of you.

P
Pingleo
Junior Member
8
05-23-2017, 05:33 PM
#10
They won’t be pleased about the broken board unless it’s available for free, where they can purchase a PCIe USB 3.0 card that includes an internal USB 3 header.
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Pingleo
05-23-2017, 05:33 PM #10

They won’t be pleased about the broken board unless it’s available for free, where they can purchase a PCIe USB 3.0 card that includes an internal USB 3 header.