Custom water cooling setup for high temperatures.
Custom water cooling setup for high temperatures.
Okay, I've been water cooling for a while now, about 7 years and I've been having problems with the 6700k. I have a water cooling loop that goes through my cpu as well as my motherboard. Now considering the ambient temperatures in my room ( which I have monitored all the time by my CPU ) my cpu package is running at higher temperatures than I would prefer. I'm wondering if it's something I can fix. I have a EK supremecy EVO Elite water block. I've made sure that it's mounted the correct way ( yes they recommend an optimal way to mount it ) I also have the correct jet plate inserted in the block for my CPU right now I have two D5 pumps running in a tandum pump system to increase water pressure throughout the loop as the loop also goes through the PWM area of the motherboard, and finally through a top mounted radiatior with a push pull configuration using 6 Corsair Air Series SP120 120mm PWM High Performance Edition High Static Pressure Fans. It's a 360mm radiator: a black ice I believe, I've kept the radiator clean of dust as I remove and blow it out regularly.
Now when people are talking about temperatures and the temperatures they get I've realized that since it's a water cooling system without a external cooling element, that you cannot decrease your CPU or any of your components below room temperature. This is specifically why I keep a thermometer close to my computer as I realized that it's not as important how low your temperatures are, as opposed to what temperatures you're getting compared to ambient temperature.
Right now my computer is running 3 monitors. One is a gaming monitor an ASUS PG278QR 27" 1ms 165Hz G-SYNC Eye Care Gaming Screen LCD Monitor. This is my gaming monitor and it's connected too my graphics card. which is two MSI GeForce GTX 980 Ti GAMING 6G SLI'd together. My second monitor is an HP POS monitor I use for multi tasking while I'm gaming or coding or something in which it's convenient to have a second monitor in order too keep track of more shit. The HP is connected via a HDMI cable to my motherboard and runs off the onboard graphics core of my 6700k. The third monitor is also connected to my onboard graphics off my CPU and is a 55' samsung TV connected by a display port cable. I use the TV to stream and watch movies and the like.
Okay long story. Short version of how messed up I believe my temperatures to be. At Idle, or very near while streaming or playing video on my TV my temps are consistently 10 to 12 degrees Celsius above ambient. My cpu is over clocked to 4.6ghz which it runs at constantly, I've got my Vcore set to 1.275v. The problem is unless I drop my temperatures dramatically using air conditioning to about 18 degrees Celsius or 64 degrees Fahrenheit I can't even get it to pass Intel burn test or prime95 without going into the red zone ( 90 -95 degrees ). At current the ambient temperature in my room is 26 degrees celsius. My CPU package which shows on a two digit display on my mobo at all times is 38 celsius. The only thing I'm doing is typing this diatribe out and playing American Dad on my 55' TV. This seems very high for a custom water cooling loop and I'm not exactly sure how I can get it down.
To Sum up my build
Mobo: MSI Z170A GAMING M9 ACK
CPU: I7-6700k running at 4.6ghz consistently Vcore 1.275v
CPU water block: EK-Supremacy EVO Elite Edition - Intel 115x using Insert 1 and Jetplate 2
Thermal Paste: Shin-Etsu X23-7783D Silicone Thermal Compound
Graphics Cards: MSI GeForce GTX 980 Ti GAMING 6G x 2
Pumps: D5 x2 with two Drok step up converters 12v -24v synced in a Bitspower G 1/4 Thread Dual D5 Mod Top
Tubing: 1/2' diameter primochill tubing
Radiator: 1 x Black Ice® GTX Gen Two Xtreme 360 Highest Performance Radiator (GTX360)
Radiator Color Onyx Black top mounted with 6 Corsair Air Series SP120 120mm PWM High Performance Edition High Static Pressure Fans in a push pull configuration pulling air from outside the case.
If anyone has any suggestions or comments, I'd be interested in reading something about if my temps are too high compared to ambient room temp, or if there's something I can alter in my bios too bring my temps down. As you can see I've thrown a lot of cash at this bitch and it's not really working, there's something I'm missing and I haven't been able to figure it out. Or this is completely normal ( what I don't like is people post their temperatures, however they never include ambient room temperature ). If I lower my room temperature dramatically, under load I can top out at about 75 or 80 degrees which doesn't really add up to peoples posted temps. However I'm not sure if they're putting as much load on their CPU's graphics processor.
There are several points to consider here, mainly related to overclocking. First, increasing the OC and voltage will inevitably raise temperatures, whether idle or under load, since you're pushing the CPU to generate more heat through higher clock speeds and voltage per cycle. Also, the need to watercool your motherboard is questionable—most of the time I advise against it because the benefits don't justify the effort, and you might face unnecessary flow restrictions.
The only thoughts that come to mind are reseating the block and verifying you have smooth flow in your loop. You might want to consider delidding your 6700k. Due to the risks involved, I can't officially suggest it, but I've done this several times without issues. Just proceed carefully at each step or use a delidding tool—they're not too costly. It can lower your temperatures by 8 to 10C, which worked for mine; many people report higher numbers, but realistically, 8 to 10 is quite good. Also, confirm you're using the correct Prime95 version. The target is 26.6, after which the processor stress increases significantly—on my old system it would be around 60C (about 33°C above ambient), while newer models hit 90-95°C instantly. Consider getting a Thermal Grizzly; it seems to be the top TIM available right now. There are several options for different cooling types, including water, LN2, and conductive solutions. The water-based ones are great, but more than necessary.
The only considerations that immediately come to mind are reseating the block and ensuring smooth flow in your loop. You might want to explore removing the 6700k. Given the risks involved, I can't officially suggest it, but I've done this several times without issues. Proceed slowly and carefully at each step, or consider using a delidding tool—they're not too costly. This process can lower temperatures by 8–10°C, which is noticeable for my setup; others claim higher drops, but realistically it's a solid range. Also, confirm you're using the correct Prime95 version. The target is 26.6, after which the processor stress increases significantly—my old model would reach about 60°C (roughly 33°C above ambient), whereas the newest Prime models hit 90–95°C. I’d recommend a Thermal Grizzly, likely the top TIM available. There are several options for different cooling needs: water-based, standard, LN2, and conductive. The water-based is excellent, but overkill for most users.
Regarding delidding my CPU, I’ve done it before. Intel warns about warranty issues, so I returned it via RMA and received a replacement. I’m not just taking chances twice—previously I sold that 4790k, which helped fund my new CPU purchase. A delidded CPU that performed well and improved temperatures was too valuable to keep on Ebay. I managed to get a fresh processor for my RMA’d unit. To fix the case, I moved it fully and cleared out air bubbles, which restored normal pressure performance. My case is large and heavy, so cutting it wasn’t ideal. For the TIM, I’ll research further but am cautious about buying another one right now.
Currently, I own a range of coolants and TIMs: Shinestus Micro, Arctic MX-2, Arctic MX-4, IC Diamond, Gelid GC-Extreme, Cool Laboratory Liquid Pro, Ultra, Metal Pads, plus several EK-TIM indigo XS models, plus various other random purchases.
Sedivy is seeking clarification on their setup and the reasons behind certain fan configurations. They describe their build with a Corsair 900D, featuring top intake fans and rear exhausts, while other fans are outlet fans. The goal is to optimize cooling by placing the radiator in a high-traffic area near the air conditioner, which helps when the AC is running. They mention using Corsair Air Series SP120 fans for performance and static pressure, except for a 140mm rear fan. They also note two fans are mounted on the hard drive cage to ensure airflow over graphics cards and explain that the top mounting is logical for a large radiator in the case. The reasoning behind using an intake rather than an outlet is based on the idea of directing hot internal air upward, which can be counteracted by adjusting fan placement.
MadHacker asks for a way to check the flow rate and notices any significant drop. They inquire if the heatsink base is getting hot and suggest it might be due to a loose connection requiring reattachment. The person mentions not having invested in a flowmeter but finds the outlet in their reservoir to be consistent and strong. They describe the heatsink as not warm at all, with the back being hot to the touch but warmer than the block, not reaching 40 degrees Celsius. They plan to remount it, noting the connections are secure but tight, requiring tools to tighten further if needed.
The issue lies in the fact that you're drawing warm air from the top and forcing it out through the sides and front. Additionally, you're pushing a significant amount of air out through the power supplies. Once the air leaves the case, it ascends and is drawn back in by the upper and side exhausts, which restricts the circulation of warm air and reduces cooling efficiency. You also maintain negative pressure inside, which usually causes dust problems. However, in your situation, air entering from the rear open cutouts (the only unpowered area) is actually warm air that was expelled from the power supply. This design is poor for airflow, which is why cases are typically built with a bottom-front orientation (away from exhausts), and a top-back orientation to prevent mixing of warm and cool air. The placement of your case—often on the floor under a desk—also restricts air movement further. Consider raising it and avoiding any enclosed or boxed configurations.
The issue lies in the way warm air is being expelled. You're directing it through the bottom and front vents, while also pushing a significant amount out through the back via power supplies. As the air leaves the case, it ascends and is drawn back in by the top and side exhausts, which creates a looping effect that reduces cooling efficiency. Additionally, you're maintaining negative pressure inside, which usually causes dust problems. However, in your setup, warm air from the back open cutout holes (the only unpowered area) is actually entering through the case. This air comes from the power supply exhaust and is simply being expelled from the front. It’s a poor airflow arrangement, which is why cases are typically designed with intake at the top and exhaust at the bottom—far from the power supply vents—to avoid mixing warm and cool air. Your current setup, especially if placed on a desk under a desk that traps air, will further restrict circulation. Consider raising the case and avoiding any enclosed confinement.