CPU upgraded without post, further downgrade also no post.
CPU upgraded without post, further downgrade also no post.
Hello, I switched from a 3700x to a 5800x3d recently. It seemed like a small change, but after about twelve hours I’m no longer stuck on fixes. Previous setup: (purchased Q3/2019) CPU: AMD 3700x Cooler: Be Quiet! Dark Rock 4 Pro Mainboard: Gigabyte x570 Aorus Ultra (I updated the BIOS a few months back to F36d, which remains current.) RAM: 16GB Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 PC 3600 CL18 (QVL verified) Graphics: Gigabyte GTX 1070 PSU: be quiet! STRAIGHT POWER 11 650W I performed a few benchmarks today just to see how the new CPU performs. Then I cut power, changed the CPU, and attempted to boot. But everything spun up at full speed, the mainboard’s CPU light flickered briefly for about half a second, then the DRAM light stayed on and the screen went black. Past troubleshooting steps: - Replaced the CPU multiple times (over ten attempts now, since I often pull it out with the cooler while swapping RAM) - Adjusted cooler mounting pressure - Borrowed a g.skill Trident Z 4400 CL19 RAM from a friend, but same issue - Tried flashing the F36d BIOS a couple of times - Reconnected all power cables, rechecked PSU - Tested RAM in dual channel, single channel, and various slots - Cleared CMOS (disconnected power, removed battery, waited 15 minutes, then bridged contacts at least twice for about 20 seconds) Now the challenging part: - I reinstalled the old 3700x and the problem continued, so the system is non-functional. - It’s already past 2 a.m. again, and I’m struggling to find any other solutions in forums that work for me. Usually they just recommend updating the BIOS. I’m running out of options and would really appreciate any help, except "R.I.P. mobo". Thanks ahead!
Did you clear the BIOS settings? The guide didn't mention it. While taking out the CPU, I twist it gently from side to side before pulling straight up, which helps release the cooler before removing it. This method avoids pulling the CPU out with the cooler stuck inside.
Install the previous CPU and refresh your motherboard's BIOS settings. I faced the same issue when moving from the 3800X to the 5900X.
Resetting the BIOS is similar to clearing CMOS. If you've already done that, you're right to note it. You disconnected power, removed the battery, waited 15 minutes, and then bridged the clear CMOS contacts at least twice for about 20 seconds each. You carefully moved the cooler, but the CPU remained stuck. I used fresh paste from Thermal Grizzly, though I've tried it before and the issue persisted.
It seems the AM4 socket design doesn’t have the expected gap between its top and bottom sections. When I apply pressure, everything functions normally until I release it. I’m currently stuck without much luck except for a new approach. I’m having trouble finding detailed guides or CAD diagrams explaining how the two halves connect or how the locking system operates. Perhaps I missed something and can reattach it by applying force to the side?
Well, it seems my main opponent is the poor quality control. The shelf section above the metal rod is slightly bent. It looks like it warped while cooling. The T-shaped sections weren’t pulled out straight up; they were cut sideways from a tiny piece of plastic, but even a light touch was enough to remove them. I’ve seen many similar issues with broken socket covers—mostly from Gigabyte, all using the Lotes AM4 cover. Whenever someone tried to return the items via RMA, Gigabyte insisted the problem was on the customer’s end. Clearly, they never noticed the cover had been bent slightly from the start. When I first locked it in three years ago, I thought everything was set right with the 3700x. Now I’m about to attempt a repair tomorrow. If it works, I’ll post an update; if not, I’ll order a new cover.
Operation finished without issues! I applied a special plastic adhesive to secure the pins on the shelf section. After that, I gently heated the shelf to reshape it slightly. While fitting the CPU, I maintained pressure on the shelf's edge (just to ensure alignment) since there was still a minor gap. Everything functions properly now! If anyone faces similar challenges and feels comfortable experimenting, please proceed carefully when removing the sliding cover. The locking system isn't designed for repeated disassembly and is quite delicate—glue was necessary too. Wishing you success!