CPu block has arrived
CPu block has arrived
We have some background in trying things in the cooling area mentioned, but we’re not here to endorse or reject any experiments you might be doing. I support it myself, and if you’re willing, I can share some lessons learned from experience.
If you’re not interested, I’ll just encourage you and keep away!
The only problem that I'm anxious of at this moment is that it simply doesn't cool the cpu enough. I've checked the whole rig for a week for leaks and run it on the draining board and ironed out a few problems here and there I could also trim one of my feed hoses & I'm just about to insulate the back of the cpu block against condensation, beyond that I don't think there is anything more I could do.
I have some confidence that this set up is capable of cooling & will probably work well at stock specs but as with all coolers the real question is how does it do on an overclock?
I'm just taking some pics of the rig in situ before I attach the cpu block - how do I post them here do I need a 3rd party web hosting service?
When i've sort that out I'll shut down attach the block fill the reservoir and away we shall go. I still have my air cooler to fall back on & the only thing that can happen is I just over heat the cpu beyond repair which I will carefully try to avoid. I don't think I will have any difficulty with stock specs. tho.
If you have any words of caution, speak now or forever hold thy peace! I don't feel like anything terrible is about to happen - but don't make any sudden loud noises, plz!
Here are the images you provided:
- http://m40i.imgup.net/frankenrad0530.jpg
- http://h78i.imgup.net/4716mhzddr8437.jpg
- http://h01i.imgup.net/torture2ee1.jpg
- http://p78i.imgup.net/4716mhzddr90f1.jpg
- http://h01i.imgup.net/ (link not fully visible)
Back! It took me some time to encounter issues with the compression couplers. Nothing can push you crazy like a twisted olive, but I realized I had mostly damaged them, so I should have checked them sooner. It took me about an hour and a half to connect a few tubes.
http://m83i.imgup.net/desktop4f17.jpg
Still, it was worth it! Here’s another of my new water-cooled thermals. I’ll take a photo of the insulated block in place soon. Now I’m going to play Far Cry 3 for about half an hour just to see how it compares.
Non-water cooled:
http://i25i.imgup.net/stocksetti244f.jpg
Water cooled:
http://p32i.imgup.net/Farcry3wc076b.jpg
Same game, different cooler. If I calculate the CPU temperature using an open hardware monitor, I see a 16°C drop with the water cooling loop.
If I look at core temperatures, I notice a 21°C reduction compared to the 150W Arctic freezer.
The water in the loop is supposed to be around 28.9°C, while the ambient is 25.5°C in my room—because it’s really tough to release the heat from here unless I open all the windows and the front door for a few hours in the evening.
I thought I’d managed to reduce the pump noise, but I’ll have to work on that more. It sounds a bit noisier in place than at the sink. Maybe too much air is passing through it.
Looking at my bank account, here’s what I spent on this project:
£10 for 2m of 12mm copper pipe (vat + delivery—could have been cheaper at a metal shop, but I got a brand new one)
£13 pump
£5 from a bargain bin (should be £35 retail)
£10 for compression couplers, cable ties, PVC tubing and other miscellaneous items
£5 on the hozelock
£15 for the CPU block
Besides that, if I think about it, I spent a bit on glue and some small extras, but that’s not really necessary since I can use the rest for other things. I guess I used around £2 to round it up to £60.
Now I just need to spend some time getting familiar with this device before starting any overclocking. I’m concerned about the pump temperature, so I might have to install a backup plan before trying anything else.
I don’t think I’ve done very badly in my first attempt at building a custom water cooling loop—there are plenty of options now for me to explore, like adding more fans (only two are really working on them directly). I’m hoping to get close to the CPU’s limits with acceptable performance and a solid overclock. The pump warning about not exceeding 35°C could limit things.
That's a great Frankenbuild, you should be proud!
What's Next Professor?
It's uplifting to hear that! Thank you sincerely for your support and for sharing your insights and cautionary tips.
I’m planning a few adjustments since the reservoir is only temporary. I combined some nearly empty CD/DVD cases and will switch them out for a hammered copper planter roughly 7x8 inches—slightly larger, yet fitting into my hanging basket. This led me to consider using an AC/DC PSU for one of the peltiers I already have, which would cost around £20 just to keep the water cool.
I still have some leftover thermal epoxy, so I can attach a heatsink to its reverse side and simply chill the base of the copper planter.
This should ease my concerns about the pump and likely resolve most of my heat issues for an overclock, as well as prevent condensation since I’ve insulated the CPU block. I could also wrap the tubes with insulation tape.
Next, I’m thinking about testing the idea of extending its lifespan—adding a GPU block might help, even though the R7 370 already runs at 62°C with dual heatpipes and two fans. It’s running at 2 extra fans and re-applied MX-2 firmware, but it makes little difference. I’m aware one of the heatsink screws feels loose, but the attachment is secure.
I could also explore adding more fins by electroplating them with copper (if possible), or alternatively, buying copper sheets and applying copper every fifth fin to boost radiant heat. I’m still figuring out the best approach, but it’s working.
I’ve checked the pump’s specifications, and it doesn’t mention a temperature threshold, so my plan remains intact. I’ll also be reaching out to potential vendors for backup parts.
My final setup includes a copper planter, a peltier, and an AC/DC PSU, costing about £80. The peltier I received is a TEC1-12704 (3A @12V, 36W cooling). My old ATX PSU has 165W, 14A on +3.3V, 25A on +5V, and 10A on +12V.
For powering the peltier, I’m considering using the -5V rail (0.5A), -12V rail (0.5A), and +5V rail (1A). I tried a 12V peltier with my ATX PSU; it didn’t cool well and stopped working after a few tests. Now I’m experimenting with a 5V peltier on the 25A rail, which worked—cooling the old Arctic freezer effectively.
I’m still testing different setups, but I’m hopeful this will keep me entertained for a while. Gaming is my priority!
I have three weeks left before I need to start installing hardened shields.
I’m also thinking about analyzing the setup mathematically—it’s not straightforward. The idea that heat conduction speeds up with temperature and thicker materials helps, but I’m not the strongest in numbers.
Additionally, I was considering electroplating copper fins (similar to aluminum), which would require some research. Alternatively, I could buy copper sheets and apply copper every few fins for extra radiance.
I might be able to keep refining this indefinitely if I really wanted to. My new project should keep me engaged!
FrankenDesign shared their setup with a copper planter, a Peltier device, and a power supply unit priced at £80. The Peltier model they possess is a TEC1-12704, which the online datasheet indicates delivers 3 amps at 12 volts and offers 36 watts of cooling capacity. They also mention having an older ATX power supply from before, featuring 165 watts, 14 amps on the +3.3V rail, 25 amps on the +5V, and 10 amps on the +12V. They are seeking advice on which pins to connect for the Peltier and are curious about the pin configuration for the -5V, -12V, and +5V rails.
They recount their experience with a 12V Peltier unit, using an ATX PSU to test it. The 12V unit failed to cool effectively, remaining hot on both sides, which led to power loss. They suspect the PSU's automatic controls (OC/UC/SC) may have intervened. When they disconnected the Peltier and shorted its output pins, the fan activated. Upon reconnecting, the PSU shut down after a few attempts.
Currently, they are testing a 5V Peltier on a 25-amp rail, which proved successful by cooling their Arctic freezer setup. They mention experimenting with a 2-inch Peltier and a 5V rail, noting it worked well for short periods before overheating. They also tried another PSU from under their desk, which failed to activate.
They are considering freezing water in a copper heatsink with a water reservoir to test cooling performance, noting the fan activated and the unit warming the freezer quickly. However, they are unsure about the optimal conditions for testing and plan to try again later. They also mentioned having spare ATX units available for future experiments.
The overall tone remains informative and practical, focusing on troubleshooting and learning from past experiences.
FrankenDesign:
The main concern is figuring out the power consumption of the CPU during a high overclock, comparing it to the cooling capacity of your water cooler. This is something you should determine yourself, as overclocking levels vary between users. You can check your TDP and CoreTemp will give you an accurate reading.
I shared my link about chilled water cooling; please make sure to check the power supply details.
FrankenBuild:
Your project sounds solid—just remember to pay attention to the power source. It’s wise to avoid running a Peltier from a single 12V rail and stick to proper supplies.
Igor, where do I find my voltage boosters?
Also, don’t rely solely on a 12V rail power supply for your Peltier; use a proper 8 or 4-pin power source.
Avoid drawing power from the 18g wired Molex or SATA cables. Opt for either an 8 or 4-pin motherboard or PCI-E cables, which are thicker and more suitable.