Could you check for any possible problems with this build?
Could you check for any possible problems with this build?
After about 8 years, my current PC is on its last legs, and it's finally time to invest into a whole new rig. After spending an ungodly amount of time reading reviews and watching videos, comparing pretty much everything, I've finally put together a system which looks good to me, at least on paper.
I have never built a PC myself, but I always hand-picked everything that ends up in the case, and fully trusted my tech guy's expertise when it came to there being anything wrong. Unfortunately, both shops he worked at in the past have closed, and I have no idea where he is at nowadays. So here I am...
Now, what I want to know is if there are any potential issues, those being either physical (clearances) or compatibility-wise. I am NOT looking for alternatives, supposedly "better choices", etc. I picked all the things for a reason.
So here's the list:
CPU: Intel Core i7-14700K
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 (SE) 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler
Thermal: Thermal Grizzly KryoSheet 38x38mm
Mobo: MSI MAG Z790 TOMAHAWK WIFI ATX LGA1700 (DDR5 version, obviously)
RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws S5 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30
Storage: a) Crucial P5 Plus 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME (OS drive)
b) Crucial P3 Plus 4 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME (Games drive)
c) Crucial MX500 1 TB 2.5" (Downloads and archives-related drive)
d) Seagate Exos X20 20 TB 3.5" 7200 RPM (Cat pics... lots of cat pics...)
e) TEAMGROUP T-Force Vulcan Z 4 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Moar games!)
GPU: MSI SUPRIM X GeForce RTX 4080 SUPER
Case: Antec Performance 1 FT ATX Full Tower Case
PSU: SeaSonic VERTEX GX-1000 1000 W 80+ Gold
I know this is pretty much overkill for most current applications and games, but like I said, I have my reasons. My main concerns are cooling, silence and longevity, not overclocking potential, RGB, looks or anything like that. I want to put the case down, hook up all the cables, and not have to think about it for the foreseeable future.
My current PC has a 980 Ti STRIX, which still handled most modern games just fine, and apart from a couple of HDDs and the middle fan on the GPU, nothing failed. If the PC with the parts listed up above lasts 6+ years without any major issues, I'll be more than happy, and by then I'll be too old for an enthusiast gaming build anyway. Or we'll all be dead considering the current worldly issues...
AFAIK, clearances shouldn't be an issue at all when it comes to GPU length, RAM and cooler, cable managment, etc.. GPU and motherboard both being MSI should make them happy as well. Is there anything I've overlooked?
[EDIT]: Updated the setup with most recent picks.
Hey there,
The only thing visible is that the mobo might lack the necessary bios to support the 14700k. It should be confirmed to run bios version 7D91vH8. You could also look at the mobo's revision, which will indicate the included bios without needing a replacement.
Otherwise, I'd recommend the Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 Evo – it offers better cooling performance overall, even compared to the older NH-D15.
Retrieve the standard K model for Intel support. This ensures functionality if your GPU fails. KF models don’t include IGP—check if the MX 500 is from your previous configuration. Assemble your system with PCPP and share the link for easier recommendations.
Not an error, but a potential one.
Spend the extra $25 for the non F suffix processor.
If you should ever have a gpu failure or problem, integrated will bail you out.
Fwiw, for a first time builder, this may help:
MY build process:
Before anything, while waiting for your parts to be delivered, download
and read, cover to cover your case and motherboard manual.
Buy a long #2 magnetic tip philips screwdriver.
A small led flashlight is also useful.
I find it handy to buy a power switch like this for testing.
https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E168121..._s...-_-Product&quicklink=true
1. I assemble the critical parts outside of the case.
That lets me test them for functionality easily.
A wood table or cardboard is fine.
2. Plug in only the necessary parts at first. Ram, cpu, cooler, psu.
Do not force anything. Parts fit only one way.
Attach a monitor to the integrated motherboard adapter if you have one, otherwise to the graphics card.
3. If your motherboard does not have a PWR button, momentarily touch the two pwr front panel pins with a flat blade screwdriver.
4. Repeatedly hit F2 or DEL, and that should get you into the bios display.
5. Boot from a cd or usb stick with memtest86 on it. memtest will exercise your ram and cpu functionality.
They boot from a usb stick and do not use windows.
You can download them here:
MemTest86 - Official Site of the x86 Memory Testing Tool
MemTest86 is the original self booting memory testing software for x86 and ARM computers. Supporting both BIOS and UEFI, with options to boot from USB.
www.memtest86.com
Memtest86+ | The Open-Source Memory Testing Tool
Memtest86+ is an advanced, free, open-source, stand-alone memory tester for 32- and 64-bit computers (UEFI & BIOS supported)
www.memtest.org
If you can run a full pass with NO errors, your ram should be ok.
Running several more passes will sometimes uncover an issue, but it takes more time.
Probably not worth it unless you really suspect a ram issue.
Opinions vary on updating the bios.
Normally, one does not update a bios unless there is a fix for something that is impacting you. I violate this rule on a new build and will update to currency up front.
Use the usb option, not the windows option.
If there is a severe problem, the impact is small.
6. Install windows.
7. Install the motherboard cd drivers. Particularly the lan drivers so you can access the internet.
Do not select the easy install option, or you will get a bunch of utilities and trialware that you don't want. Drivers only.
7. Connect to the internet and install an antivirus program. Microsoft defender is free, easy, and unobtrusive.
8. Install your graphics card and driver if you tested with integrated graphics.
You will need to remove the graphics card later to install your motherboard in the case.
As a tip when screwing the motherboard into the posts, give the screw a small counterclockwise turn until you feel a click.
That lets you know that the screw will engage properly.
Make a note of how the graphics card latches into the pcie slot.
The mechanism will be hidden under the card and may be difficult to work if you have not previously checked how.
9. Update windows to currency.
10. Only now do I take apart what I need to and install it in the case.
11. Now is the time to reinstall your graphics card.
Everything looks compatible! Few comments on "cooling, silence and longevity": Like @Roland Of Gilead suggested, get the Phantom Spirit Evo. If you are going for the chromax covers for specific colour coordination, then thats different. If you want a better mobo, consider the taichi lite: https://asrock.com/mb/Intel/Z790 Taichi Lite/index.asp Regarding storage: Get the P3 1tb for OS. You dont need that burst speed for OS and other softwares. Or, if you really want a good drive, get the Crucial T500. Same for the game drive: get the T500. My Novlus modded skyrim takes almost a minute to load with my p5 plus drive. The MX500 1tb has 360TB drive endurance compared to 600tb for the T500 1tb. look for endurance and random read write speeds for storage and archive disks. imho, you could go for 2 x T500 drives. 1 for OS and games and the other for downloads and archives. I dont know if the 800DX would be silent compared to any other mesh front case. It hasn't got any sound damping panels. it comes down to GPU, PSU and case fan noise. The 160mm fans in the Lancool 216 is quieter than comparable 120/140mm equipped cases. https://www.techpowerup.com/review/lian-...rgb/8.html you can see the bequiet purebase 500 FX trailing the 216 in the noise test list. The top exhaust fans may not be required with a dual tower cooler with 2 fans and the rear fans pulling hot air for exhaust. But you might want to consider the GPU fan that can be mounted on the pcie bracket area for improved GPU thermals. And if the GPU runs cooler with the extra GPU fan in the lancool 216, the GPU fans would not ramp up as much - quieter GPU operation. The seasonic is not the quietest PSU. Its quiet, but not the best. Refer the average noise table in the below link: Best ATX v3.x & PCIe 5.x Ready PSU Picks 2024 – Hardware Busters - Page 4 of 8 - Hardware Busters Hardware Busters - Best ATX v3.x & PCIe 5.x Ready PSU Picks 2024 – Hardware Busters - Best Picks hwbusters.com Do you have any reason to go for the Intel platform when it wont support the next gen CPUs? The 7800X3D and B650E Taichi lite offers better performance for about the same price and supports next gen CPUs...
I accept the advice provided above.
Additionally, I recommend the following options:
G.Skill Ripjaws S5 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory
offers a similar price and performance with reduced latency.
Alternatively, if minimizing latency is not a priority and you prefer stability without extra features or heatsinks, the Crucial CT2K32G48C40U5 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR5-4800 CL40 Memory is a solid choice. It provides ample RAM, remains fast, and doesn’t need overclocking or XMP settings. Simply install it and it will work seamlessly.
Both models are compact, making them compatible with tower coolers without issues.
Thanks everybody for your suggestions. I took some to heart, and also did a bit more research, which led me to a few changes.
- A friend pointed out that the Shadow Base would require extra HDD cages, which are not included and would cost extra. As I found that a bit scummy from be quiet!, I've decided to instead go for the Antec Performance 1 FT. This one already comes with 4 pre-installed fans as well, so I won't need to buy any extra ones, as would have been the case with the Shadow Base. According to a video by HardwareCanucks, the stock setup of 3 intake 140 mm and the 120 mm exhaust would even be best in terms of airflow over adding more fans to the top and bottom.
- The 14700KF will indeed be switched to a K model. I've never had a GPU fail on me in the past, but you never know and better safe than sorry indeed.
- Seeing how 2 HDDs seem to be an issue for many cases these days (they really want you to go for SSDs and NVMEs only, it seems), I've decided to go for a single 20 TB drive instead of the 2 12 TB ones, which should fit nicely in the bottom of the Antec.
- As for the CPU cooler, the Noctua would indeed be overkill as I don't really plan on massively overclocking the CPU anyway. I have a Thermalright Macho Rev.B in my current PC, which has been running 24/7 just fine, so why not stick with the brand. I've decided to get the Shadow Spirit 120 non-SE, if possible, but I'll take the SE as well. Not a fan of the EVO if only because of the RGB on it.
😛
On the PCPP list I had to pick the SE model as the non-SE was not listed for some reason.
- With all the money I saved from those changes, I even managed to squeeze in another 4 TB SSD for even more gaming into the setup. Bring on Star Citizen and GTA VI!
- The G.Skill Ripjaws S5 are a solid pick as well, and will add them to my potential alternative list.
Here's the planned rig on PCPP:
https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/FyMCkJ
(with TEAMGROUP RAM)
or
https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/wy3gHG
(with G.Skill)
Thanks again everybody. This will be quite the upgrade from my current i5-6600K and 980 Ti, I'd say. Really quite excited about it, even though the price at the bottom line makes me wheeze... oh well, these are the times we live in, I guess.
I've always been loyal to Intel and Nvidia, so I'm probably a bit of a fan. I rarely chase the newest tech; I tend to wait at least two or three generations before upgrading. My setup went from a GeForce3 to a 6800 GT (maybe?), then a GTX 570, the ASUS GTX 770 DirectCU II—what a huge machine back then—and finally the 980 Ti. Had things been different, I might have gotten a 2080 or 3080 three years back.
It was the same with the CPUs; next-gen ones aren't really on my radar now. I also don't like the push to make everything faster for AI. The Gemini AI mess really highlighted that it's the developers who matter, and with what we have today, things seem pretty grim. I wouldn't want my PC to end up showing me only "diverse" options someday.
😛
Your clarification is appreciated!
Some recommendations were made: using a Wi-Fi 7 device improves the EVO model due to better fans. You can skip connecting the RGB cables and run it without them, similar to my setup with the RGB SE phantom spirit.
I noticed the T500 isn’t competitively priced in the EU. An alternative idea was suggested for the Toshiba, which offers a larger cache than Seagate.
The difference between Suprim X and Gaming X is relatively minor from a performance standpoint—probably not worth spending over 100 euros.
A similar situation exists with a 20gbps type C front panel connector (Mobo also has a Gen 2 header) featuring digital temperature display and an HDD caddy.
I’m unsure if the Antec case is justified at 181 euros!
ATX 3.0 version of the GX 1000 seasonic PSU.
PCPartPicker Part List
CPU: Intel Core i7-14700K 3.4 GHz 20-Core Processor (€431.81 @ Galaxus)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Phantom Spirit EVO 69 CFM (€44.90 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Motherboard: MSI PRO Z790-A MAX WIFI ATX LGA1700 (€270.96 @ Galaxus)
Memory: TEAMGROUP T-Create Expert 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR5-6000 CL34 (€215.72 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Storage: Kingston KC3000 2.048 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME SSD (€159.90 @ Alza)
Storage: Crucial MX500 4 TB 2.5" SSD (€269.34 @ Galaxus)
Storage: Lexar NM790 4 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 SSD (€243.00 @ Mindfactory)
Storage: Toshiba MG10 512e 20 TB 3.5" 7200 RPM HDD (€325.21 @ Galaxus)
Video Card: MSI GAMING X SLIM GeForce RTX 4080 SUPER 16 GB (€1157.99 @ Mindfactory)
Case: Deepcool CH510 MESH DIGITAL ATX Mid Tower (€81.90 @ Alza)
Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS GX-1000 ATX 3.0 1000 W, 80+ Gold Certified, Fully Modular (€161.90 @ Alza)
Case Fan: ARCTIC P14 PST 72.8 CFM 140 mm (€6.62 @ Aquatuning)
Case Fan: ARCTIC P14 PST 72.8 CFM 140 mm (€6.62 @ Aquatuning)
Total: €3375.87
Prices cover shipping, taxes, and available discounts
Generated by
PCPartPicker
2024-03-02 13:42 CET+0100
I just got a FRITZ!Box 4060 last year when my flat was finally hooked up to fiber, along with a new contract, so technically I'm still paying it off. It "only" has Wi-Fi 6, so would it even matter then if the mobo has Wi-Fi 7?
🤔
Those better fans also run louder, according to TH's own review, but in the grand scheme of things, I doubt I'd even notice the difference.
Heck, I'm even considering going with an AIO after all. In that case, I'd get the new Arctic Liquid Freezer III 360, mounted in the top.
👍
Lots of things are not priced competitively here in the EU. The Toshiba is only 3 Euros cheaper (Tree fiddy, in fact
🤣
), but I don't really care about cache. I'm getting that HDD to mainly store all my downloaded (anime) TV series and movies to be watched whenever, various downloads, and (non-pr0n) picture sets which my DisplayFusion will flip through every 3 minutes.
The other problem is also the store. For instance, Mindfactory ships to my place, Galaxus doesn't, so at the end of the day, the Seagate would only be 1 Euro more expensive. 🤷♂️
The Gaming X Slim was on my list, but I've ultimately decided to go for the Suprim X because it has 3 DisplayPort outputs, whereas the Gaming only has 2.
I'm currently still on a 2 monitor setup, with an Acer XB241H 1080p monitor as my main one, and an ancient iiyama Prolite XB2485WSU-B3, which refuses to die even though it is already over 10 years old. Both of them sit on an
IKEA Fredde
desk, which I also bought about 10 years ago, and that severely limits my choices. A single 27" monitor would just barely fit, but then I'd have no room for a second one, and a 32" is completely out of question.
As soon as the iiyama does finally take its last breath (been waiting for it to do so for years now, actually
😏
), I'll get a whole new desk, at least a curved 32" 1440p monitor to replace the Acer as my main screen, and eventually a third one depending on my needs. 4K is still way too expensive for my liking, even though my next PC would easily handle it.
62.671 L of breathing room vs 49.185 L in yours. I'd say that makes a difference, no? Besides, I love me a good full tower. The PC prior to my current one was in a
Cooler Master HAF X
, and I loved that thing!
🤣
The Vertex has 12 years warranty, whereas the Focus has 10 years. If I go back to getting a new PC every 5 years, the Vertex would have a bit more life left in it. Heck, even if I waited another 8 years until my next build, that'd put the Vertex at 34% left, compared to only 20% for the Focus.
👍
I appreciate your suggestions, but like I said in the OP post, I know what I'm getting and for what reasons. Often that includes things like availability and shipping.