Consider a router or AP option.
Consider a router or AP option.
I've faced similar issues before and decided to upgrade. I'm aiming for a solid setup with the old router handling the wired network and a new AP in the living area. I need something reliable within my budget, around $150 CAD. The house is one story, about 1200 sq ft, with enough power for the basement and a good outdoor space. I've seen several options—ASUS, Linksys, Netgear, TP-Link—and am checking their performance and support for AP mode. I'm curious if upgrading to Wi-Fi 6 makes sense, especially since my devices are on Wi-Fi 5 but expect future upgrades. Also, should I invest in a dedicated AP or stick with the existing setup? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Have you thought about purpose-built POE access points connected through a router? In your case, it could be more practical to install half of the good POE access points yourself and place them inside your home instead of purchasing a router. With a POE access point, you only need one cable and they’re usually small enough to fit in many locations without drawing attention.
What equipment are you employing today? 2.4ghz or 5ghz? Are your interior surfaces drywall or brick? How straight is the arrangement? Is the AP positioned at one side of the home and do you have to extend your reach for a strong signal? If possible, I’d choose AX, since I suggest opting for the newest and best options, as compatibility standards are backward compatible.
I've looked into discrete APs, but I'm unsure what to choose or where to source them. If you have any suggestions, please feel free. Regarding PoE, my switch in the basement isn't PoE enabled yet, and I can simply position devices near outlets if needed. However, I'm open to considering it. I'm currently using a 5GHz AC setup. The interior is mainly plaster, with some drywall in rooms that were recently renovated. My current configuration has one router at the top floor and another on the opposite side of the basement. The signal from my upstairs router (with just internal antennas) weakens to around -60 dbm when moving downstairs on the same floor, and drops further to -80/-90 on the basement side. The house layout is fairly straightforward, with a central hallway and rooms branching off it. Now that the Ethernet is installed, placing an AP in the center of the house is definitely feasible.
It seems a 2-point mesh setup will likely provide the best coverage and advantages. Mesh systems often cost more, but extenders can be an alternative, though they reduce speed performance. If your current router handles high speeds well, that might make the difference less noticeable.
They operate in a half-duplex mode. They simply retransmit the data they receive, which means if you send a weak signal, it remains half-duplex. This isn't ideal when better alternatives exist. I don't agree. The original idea of using APs or converting wireless routers to AP mode still works best since a stable Ethernet connection is available. Mesh networks depend on wireless backhaul, so if devices encounter obstacles or interference, communication becomes difficult. Draw a floor plan, mark your current network gear and signal strength, and let me know what data rates you're paying for from your ISP.
ISP connection offers 600Mbps via Shaw. Layout diagram attached. Accuracy is approximate but sufficient. ETH connections are highlighted in blue, indicating active Ethernet links. Setting up additional networks is straightforward. A central switch resides in the utility room. Two wireless routers (D-link DIR-850L) are positioned on either side of the house—one on the main floor and one in the basement. These units lack true AP functionality, but I’ve set the lower unit to broadcast DHCP requests to the upper one, functioning as an AP. Both share identical SSIDs across channels. Signal strength varies: living room -30 to -40 dBm, bedrooms/office -50/-60 dBm. Serviceable range. Signal weakens to -60/-70 in the basement near stairs, -80/-90 at the far end of the basement where the second router sits. My plan was to consolidate into a single main AP at the office Ethernet port, keeping the living room router off to avoid interference. Coverage issues aren’t the main concern; rather, connectivity remains inconsistent. Wi-Fi often appears active yet no internet access is reported. This occurs intermittently with Android phones and occasionally with my laptop. The router requires a reset to resolve the problem. Certain wired devices, like Xbox and Steam, sometimes display “network not found” even when physically connected. This pattern suggests a router malfunction, as multiple devices encounter similar problems despite stable Ethernet setups.
The DIR-850L performs adequately for maintaining high-speed connections close to gigabit levels. However, its performance drops when it comes to WiFi speeds on both 2.4GHz and 5GHz bands, especially during peak usage. Shaw offers a modem or a gateway option. If you're using the DIR-850L in router mode as a gateway, it may lead to issues such as double-NAT and frequent LAN IP lease changes across subnets, which can cause temporary client disconnections. I’ve noticed this pattern. D-Link devices often behave differently in AP mode, and it’s not always a true AP configuration. Your network setup looks reasonable, particularly with the Ethernet ports. I recommend verifying the quality of your Ethernet connections using affordable testers. I’m currently troubleshooting similar problems at my parents’ place after years since installation, and I’m uncovering the root causes of connection instability. Based on your options, I’d suggest going with this model. If you can swap out two of the existing DIR-850L units, that would be perfect. Regarding the operating mode, you’ll need to match it with the ISP’s device—whether it’s a gateway without bridge capabilities or supports both AP and bridge modes. Placement matters: position devices centrally in an open space for optimal coverage, avoiding walls, low ground levels, or tight cabinets.
Shaw proves a gateway. I'll explore if it has a passthrough mode, but I don't think so. Regardless, I don't really expect it's causing my issues, since it only ever affects one or two devices at a time, and all other devices connected to the router have connection just fine. The only ethernet run I'd be questioning the integrity of is the SW corner of the living room (TV, where the Xbox and steam link live) so I'll look into checking that. The cable tester is probably something I should have picked up when I first started making my own cables anyways. But all the other issues have been on Wifi, which doesn't attach to that run. Thank you for the recommendation! We're doing a bit more testing before we purchase anything, but I'll take it into account.
Keep in mind that gateways operate their own DHCP servers. Running one alongside another can lead to conflicts. On certain devices, you may not be able to use them in passthrough or bridge mode. A solution I've discovered is assigning your router a fixed IP address on the gateway, while placing its LAN on a separate subnet with its own DHCP pool. This prevents the router from disconnecting during IP lease renewals and ensures your network only uses the gateway's DHCP service.