Computer needs multiple tries to launch, but the keyboard isn't functioning for the Windows repair?
Computer needs multiple tries to launch, but the keyboard isn't functioning for the Windows repair?
Hi,
I'm experiencing an unusual problem.
Description of the Issue
When I power on my Windows 11 system, I encounter the following error:
Inaccessible_Boot_Device 0x7B
During initial startup, Windows cannot begin normally.
After switching the PC off and on a few times, it launches without further problems.
There are no apparent hardware faults; the machine functions correctly once it boots.
I tried performing a Windows repair using a USB drive made from this device:
- The keyboard fails to respond at the language selection screen (“US”).
- It works properly in BIOS.
Steps Taken
Hardware checks:
- Reseated NVMe drives
- Attempted Windows repair via USB
- Adjusted USB / Keyboard settings in BIOS
Legacy USB Support:
Enabled (ensures compatibility with older keyboards)
XHCI Hand-off: Enabled (needed for USB 3.x ports in OS/WinPE)
USB Mass Storage Driver Support: Enabled
Keyboard testing:
- Operates in BIOS but not in WinPE
- Boot and power settings are functioning
Fast Boot: Disabled (prevents USB controllers from initializing fully)
ErP / Power Saving Mode: Disabled (keeps the system powered early during boot)
CSM (Compatibility Support Module): Disabled (UEFI required; Windows 11 needs UEFI)
Boot Order: Windows drive first (recoery stick also works)
Recovery/Boot attempts:
Tried Windows 11 recovery USB:
- Keyboard not recognized at the language selection screen, even in USB 2.0 ports
- BIOS confirms keyboard is present; no hardware issues detected
Chat GPT suggests this points to a WinPE/early Windows USB driver initialization problem.
System Specifications
Case: Cooler Master NR200P Max TG + Mesh ITX (NR200P-MCNN85-SL0)
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z690I AORUS Ultra Plus ITX (BIOS F23a, UEFI, Secure Boot Off)
CPU: Intel Core i5-13600K (13th Gen, 14 cores / 20 threads, 3.5 GHz)
RAM: 64GB Corsair Vengeance DDR5 5200MHz (2x32GB)
GPU: ASUS GeForce RTX 3060 Ti Dual Mini 8GB LHR
Storage: 2x Kingston KC3000 2TB NVMe Gen4 SSDs
Cooling/Fans: 2x Corsair AF12 Slim 120mm PWM White, Arctic Silver 5 thermal paste
OS: Windows 11 Home, Version 10.0.26100 Build 26100
Boot Device: \Device\HarddiskVolume1
Virtualization: Enabled in firmware (Hyper-V compatible)
Kernel DMA Protection: Off
ChatGPT recommends either booting into Linux to check for bootloader fixes or performing a CMOS reset. My only alternative is to simply avoid shutting down the machine.
I also attempted several other solutions...
Thank you for any assistance! - Matt
Welcome to the forums, newcomer!
Motherboard details:
Gigabyte Z690I AORUS Ultra Plus ITX (BIOS F23a, UEFI, Secure Boot Off)
The BIOS version F23a isn’t listed on their support page for your board;
https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/Z69...support#dl
This suggests the BIOS you have was removed because of instability or for a more stable version. I recommend updating it to F31.
Operating System:
Windows 11 Home, Version 10.0.26100 Build 26100
We’re currently on 25H2 while the correct version is 24H2. Since you can’t fix the OS using the recovery drive, it might be wise to format and reinstall it, especially if you don’t have important details about the installation.
winders RE bug ...
Microsoft quickly issued a fix.
..patch
recommends updates should resolve the issue.
If you have a ps/2 mouse and kyb, along with a ps/2 port on your motherboard, you can work around it. For a single ps/2 port, a splitter cable might help for both the mouse and the kyb. I haven't tried one yet. These solutions might still be available if someone knows about older systems or online resources. You won't need an iXT motherboard.
It's not a strict rule, but you could try uninstalling and reinstalling as suggested.
- Run Windows 11 update page
- Create a new USB installer using the media creation tool. This should require fewer updates.
Or simply download the ISO and run setup from the Windows desktop. This will perform an in-place installation with the option to preserve your programs and data.
Clean install instructions
- I don't know how you handle your Windows license – link it to your MS account and remember the credentials if you want to retain it.
Regarding the root cause of the
0x7B error – a disk-related issue possibly due to BIOS quirks – this hasn't happened recently when dealing with an old win2k legacy system. It seems uncommon.
Take the Kingston SSD Manager, verify your boot drive's condition, and search for available firmware updates. The INACCESSIBLE_BOOT_DEVICE bugcheck indicates an initial boot failure due to either an inaccessible or corrupt boot partition, which is typically a drive-related issue.
I will include the recommendation to back up all crucial information immediately, ensuring it is stored in places far from the main system. Make sure the backups can be recovered and accessed properly.
Here’s a revised version of your message with the same length and structure:
You're welcome and appreciated for your helpful feedback.
Regarding the formatting issue, my main concern is how to proceed with the keyboard that isn't working. I feel quite stuck.
I also have another SSD drive—maybe I can install Windows on that one?
Thanks!
Also, I have an old PS2 keyboard or two, but not the port on this motherboard.
Some useful strategies for when I get a chance to resolve this are also welcome.
Thank you again for these great tips!
I’ve backed up the main root drive, and most of the other drives are safe. I can still access them through a USB reader, even if the boot drive fails (assuming the problem doesn’t affect the secondary drives).
Just a quick reminder...
Thanks everyone for your valuable suggestions!
In the short term, video editing might strain the computer’s performance—thank you!
It might be wise to refresh the drive firmware as well, since this should be included in the download Kingston app – though I'm not entirely certain about that. If the drive behaves oddly during the update, changing the firmware could cause the system to restart unexpectedly. I remember a similar situation with my Samsung 980 Pro a few years back, where an 'unexpected reset' occurred after updating the firmware. So, if you're in a stable state and not handling anything important, now could be a safer time to attempt this.
Thanks for that...my main goal with this PC is editing films for Youtube. It's not about dealing with boot device problems, but it's something I need to get right. It might be a school holiday job, since right now I can work at least until shutdown. Thanks! I'm out in the country and far from where I bought it. When I took it apart, I saw the drive wasn't secured with a screw—just plugged in, which could be the cause. Thanks!
This is the manufacturer's information for your M.2 slot.
The photo shows the drives under a heatsink, which raises concerns about their stability.
The manual omits details about the board design and included accessories, suggesting they aren't meant to move freely.
There are worries about signal quality if the connection isn't fully secured, potential arcs or shorts if pins are misaligned, smoke from overheating, and whether the main power supply is properly disconnected.
I'm not certain about the exact placement of screws inside the case—maybe they're hidden. Is the M.2 heatsink included or not? Or was it omitted during installation? It seems unclear how tightly modern components are built.
Back in the days of ZX Spectrum or ZX81, there were I/O slots for RAM, joysticks, or even speech modules that sounded like Professor Hawking.
If a component sags or drops, it could have caused issues before devices were connected. Nowadays, it might just be an error, or possibly something more serious with powerful GPUs.
I built my own system and installed the M.2 drive myself when powered off, securing it with a screw I tightened by hand. I then added the included heatsink manually. This follows my preference to avoid power connections while using mains power. As far as I understand, that's acceptable.
The difference between intended behavior and actual performance is unclear.
Why is secure boot disabled? I don’t know the reason, but I enable it because of concerns about it being activated by default—especially after upgrading to version 11 due to security warnings.
It's a good question...I recently opened it up to reinstall it, but the screw wasn't present. I'm uncertain whether I removed it myself or if it was missing from the start.
(At first I assembled the PC, but later another issue forced me to return it for repairs!)
I have some experience building PCs, though it can be risky.
Do you know what screw it is? Our contacts in the AI community suggest:
Jaycar
: "M2 x 3mm Laptop Screws" should work
PC Case Gear
: "M.2 SSD Mounting Screw Kit"
eBay / Amazon
: Any "M.2 Screw + Standoff Kit"
Would that be correct?
I plan to disassemble it carefully and reinstall it properly...
My main concern is that this task requires great skill, and I have the strength of a 7-foot basketball player—but not much precision!