Check your system thoroughly—there might be an issue with the Ryzen 5 3600.
Check your system thoroughly—there might be an issue with the Ryzen 5 3600.
Hello, I'm writing this out in detail, so please give it your time. I recently switched from a Ryzen 5 1600 to the 3600 model, since my motherboard is the MSI B450 gaming plus. I also updated the BIOS before replacing the 1600 with the 3600. At first, the system didn't boot properly in dual-channel mode. I tried single-channel with just one RAM stick and it worked. Once I switched to Windows with single-channel memory, the PC shut down completely. When I reattempted, it crashed right at the login screen again. I assumed the issue was with the CPU, so I went back to the 1600. But this time, with the CPU still installed, the system refused to start and even lit up the EZ debug DRAM indicator solid red. After that, I changed back to the 3600, but it also wouldn't boot in single-channel mode, and the motherboard's debug lights flared red. From now on, every attempt has shown the DRAM indicator and prevented a start. I've tried everything: checking RAM in every slot, different combinations, clearing CMOS via battery removal and jumper, updating BIOS again, testing on an Intel machine, using a separate system, changing the motherboard to the B450 Gaming Pro Carbon Max Wi-Fi (which comes with the Ryzen 3rd gen), breadboarding the board, using an AIO and stock cooler on the 3600, removing all extra peripherals, and even trying a different PSU or starting an RMA. I haven't reached the BIOS yet. It's frustrating—I'm not sure if the power supply is the problem or the CPU itself. I really need someone here to help me with this stubborn issue. My full specs are: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 (upgraded from 1600), MSI B450 gaming pro carbon Max (16GB x2 Corsair Vengeance LPX 3000MHz), RTX 2070 Corsair CX 650.
This power supply isn't especially known for being dependable. It might not fix the problem, but I suggest bringing your main system parts to a place like Microcenter for testing on another supply. If you're thinking about getting a new one, go for Seasonic or Be Quiet models. Just make sure to use genuine boards with 80+ Bronze or higher ratings—avoid white-label options. Let me know if you need more details!
I'm from India, so there aren't any Microcenters nearby. (I really hope they're available here) I'll still attempt to bring it into a store for testing. And yes, once this issue resolves, that PSU will be fine, no more price cuts. Thanks.
It's no surprise at all! Even in the US, there aren't any Microcenters nearby, which is frustrating. From past experiences, I used an EVGA 600w white label power supply that failed completely when running Goat Simulator on an overclocked i5—lol. I also faced many times where my system wouldn't boot at all with that unit. Once I switched to a Be Quiet! 850w 80+ Platinum, everything worked smoothly. The lesson? Don’t skimp on power supplies—they’re crucial for your system’s health and performance.
Seasonic and Be quiet offer impressive power options, but they also come with some poor choices. Don't rely only on brand when picking a power supply. Review the PSU tier list if you haven’t seen it. Even in the Corsair CX 650 line, some units are mediocre while others perform well.
I concur. I suggested them due to their reputation for dependability in their more well-known models (gold and above). A brand name by itself doesn't guarantee quality or reliability (like OP's Corsair unit). The PSU tier list provides valuable insights into power supply performance. Thanks for sharing the link to the tier list.
Gray label CX650s perform well. The latest models from the past couple of years are particularly impressive. If it carries a green label... fine. Unfortunately, current conditions aren’t great. @StrideRwasTaken, I ran into a problem with some Ryzen 3000 CPUs during a pwn3d session by a 3600—your board would shut down unexpectedly and then restart. That’s not typical, but it’s worth noting. Have you inspected your CPU for bent or damaged pins? The socket might be blocked, possibly even by part of the chip itself. Also look at the socket for thermal paste, dust, or anything that could interfere. This issue seems to follow a CPU swap; if both the 3600 and 1600 are fine, your motherboard is likely compromised. Still, before swapping it out, consider testing another compatible board. I’d return the CPU regardless of its condition, but it’s worth trying on another platform if possible. Even if the chip fails, the chance it drags down the whole board is slim.
Sure, I understand. I won't settle for a low-quality power supply. I'm considering the Be Quiet or Seasonic options. I'll make sure to check everything out in the store before deciding.