Are there any new questions about building?
Are there any new questions about building?
Based on a wide range of recommendations from Aeacus regarding another discussion thread, I have acquired all necessary parts for a new PC. Detailed information will be shared later in this post.
The components purchased include:
- MSI ACE mobo
- AMD 7950X3D CPU
- RTX 4060 GPU
- Corsair DDR5 RAM
- Enthoo Pro case
- Prime TX-1600 PSU
- Dark Rock Pro 5 cooler
- Noctua A14 fans
This thread is intended for ongoing queries and conversations about this build, focusing on optimal setup. The initial concern was determining the best starting actions. To prevent installation issues where one item blocks another, I planned to uninstall in the correct order. I was instructed to thoroughly read the motherboard manual, which I am now doing. I intend to gradually add questions as the process becomes clearer.
Reading the manual suggests using an ESD wrist strap; it also raises questions about its proper use and any additional recommendations. It emphasizes that the configuration isn’t arbitrary but follows specific constraints: minimizing noise, controlling power usage to prevent overheating, prioritizing AMD’s multithreaded performance, opting for a large L1 cache CPU, maximizing RAM size without sacrificing speed or price per GB, choosing 96GB as ideal, and selecting 192GB instead of 4090 for cost reasons. The goal was to balance performance with budget and thermal management.
Prioritizing low noise was key, and quieter options often came at a lower cost. I chose EATX form factor to allow more expansion slots, ensuring ample space for peripherals and spare parts. For the motherboard, I selected faster connectors to avoid forced socket choices.
I also planned to upgrade components later, aiming for everything to fit within budget and thermal limits. Besides the main parts, I’ve added extras like a 10-port USB hub, various extension cables, and an existing LG monitor that I plan to replace eventually. The focus remains on building a robust new tower rather than immediate cost savings.
I have compiled a complete list of product names and purchase links for reference.
You have been summoned once more and am present now.
Initial action: Obtain the holy bible of PCs (MoBo manual).
Although the MoBo comes with a quick installation guide, it is recommended to download the complete (multi-language) manual from the following link:
https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/MEG-X670...ort#manual
As I will be frequently referencing this manual, please read it thoroughly.
After reading, revisit it several times.
The MoBo manual is considered the most essential documentation for any PC, which is why I refer to it as: "holy bible of PCs".
Assembly
Prior to placing the MoBo inside the PC case, a breadboarding process is necessary. Although not strictly required, this step helps verify whether the CPU-MoBo-RAM combination functions. If neither the CPU, MoBo, nor RAM works, it becomes much simpler to take everything apart compared to when the MoBo is already installed and all cables are properly managed.
Additionally, ensure you are properly grounded before handling any PC components. For example, touch any metal pipe connected to ground (such as central heating or water pipes). Avoid standing on carpets, particularly when wearing socks.
For assembling the PC, a sturdy table works well—perhaps a dining table would suffice.
1. Breadboarding
1.1. Remove the MoBo from its packaging and place it inside any cardboard box. The retail box is acceptable.
1.2. Unbox the RAM, open the 2nd and 4th slot clips, and install the RAM. The manual, page 8, provides detailed instructions. Page 30 offers further guidance on selecting the correct slots for two DIMMs (which you have).
1.3. Remove the CPU and mount it onto the MoBo. The manual, page 6, outlines step-by-step instructions. Additional tips are available on page 29.
Note: Although the manual suggests installing the CPU and cooler before RAM, given your Be Quiet! CPU cooler, it is better to install RAM first. This prevents the cooler from covering the RAM slots, which would complicate RAM installation.
1.4. Install the CPU cooler according to its instructions.
If no paper manual comes with the cooler (it should), download it here:
https://www.bequiet.com/en/cpucooler/4466
Scroll to the "Characteristics" section and select the "Downloads" tab.
With RAM, CPU, and cooler installed, the PC should be operational but still require some adjustments.
1.5. Identify the USB type-C to HDMI cable and connect the USB port on the back of the MoBo to the correct slot. Refer to pages 23 and 24 for guidance. The HDMI connector is connected to the monitor.
1.6. Attach the keyboard and mouse to the MoBo's USB ports at the rear. The exact ports are not critical.
1.7. Unbox the PSU, locate the 24-pin ATX connector and two 4/8-pin EPS cables. Position the PSU near the MoBo, with the fan facing upwards. Connect the 24-pin and EPS cables as instructed. I prefer connecting them to the PSU first, then linking to the MoBo. The reverse is also acceptable.
Ensure the PSU switch is in the "Off" position. Connect the power cable from the PSU to the mains.
The final setup should resemble this:
(This is my Skylake build assembled via breadboarding, when I initially purchased the components.)
Although the PC does not include a GPU or SSD for the operating system, it is unnecessary. The goal is to verify that CPU-MoBo-RAM functions correctly and that you can boot into UEFI (BIOS).
2. First Power-On
When ready to power on:
2.1. Turn the switch at the back of the PSU.
2.2. Press the "Power" button on the MoBo itself to activate the PC. The manual, page 55, indicates where this button is located.
At this stage, you should see signs of life from your components—CPU fan spinning, RAM LEDs illuminating, additional lights activating on the MoBo.
If no display appears despite powering on, check the DEBUG LED for error codes. Refer to page 61 for details.
Pages 61–65 contain a chart mapping all DEBUG LED values and their meanings.
It may appear stuck at codes such as 15, 16, 17, 18 or 2E. However, since this is memory training and takes time, it shouldn’t exceed five minutes. The MoBo can run memory training twice, but once POST completes, the PC should boot directly into UEFI (BIOS).
2.3. Upon seeing UEFI on the monitor, you’ve successfully confirmed that CPU-MoBo-RAM is functioning. You may explore the UEFI settings if desired, but you can exit and restart from there.
Since no OS is installed, the PC will restart and boot back into UEFI.
2.4. Powering Off
To shut down:
While in UEFI, either press the power button on the MoBo or flip the switch at the back of the PSU (I prefer flipping it).
For safety, you can also revert the breadboarded setup and test functionality.
Flip the PSU switch back to "On" and power on via the MoBo’s power button. If everything is correct, you’ll return to UEFI. For this second attempt, you may want to power off again before proceeding with further assembly.
Concerning additional assembly, you can install the MoBo into the PC case if preferred, but I personally recommend installing the operating system first. This simplifies disassembly when issues arise.
Feel free to share the next steps whenever you’re ready.
Today's ESD wrist straps fit over your hand like a handband, with the cable exiting and connecting to a ground point. For instance, GamersNexus offers one such product, which can be used independently or alongside their mod mat. You can check it out here: https://store.gamersnexus.net/products/e...oint-cable. Their detailed video tutorial is also available for viewing at the provided link.
Thank you very much for the information. If I need to order more than one item later, I’ll postpone the purchase. I’ve been reviewing the mobo manual more closely and have also been examining some tower manuals. In the mobo manual on page 12, it mentions a torque screwdriver—there’s a video demonstrating how to set it correctly. At that stage of the video, you need to adjust it to a specific setting. I don’t just have one; I haven’t even heard of one before! Any suggestions for alternatives would be appreciated, preferably from the UK to avoid delays. I’m considering compiling a shopping list of additional items before buying these, so I can combine purchases and reduce waiting times or trips to Amazon lockers. I plan to read through the entire mobo manual with questions and the tower manual beforehand. If I install it in a room with factory-varnished bamboo flooring, are you suggesting only briefly touching the metal pipe, rather than trying to handle everything with one hand while touching the pipe? Each time I shift my foot to another part of the room, do I have to touch the pipe again before working on the mobo and its components? What’s the best approach—barefoot, wearing flip-flops, plimsolls, or socks? The kitchen and bathroom seem unsuitable due to humidity, the corridor has modern vinyl flooring, while other rooms feature carpet. I believe the only appropriate option is the room with bamboo flooring. It’s a bit off topic, but this flooring type is excellent—it resists tools like hammers better than oak and costs half as much. Just avoid water; I use a broom instead. It looks similar to pine but is actually a large grass, which also means it resists pests such as woodworms and woodlice. Since it’s tropical, temperate insects won’t affect it.
Page 12? You sure? Since the manual i downloaded has it on Page 10.
😆
Torque screwdriver is what the name says it is. It allows to tighten the screws (or bolts) to certain force, set by user, before the mechanism releases the screwdriver, so that whatever you screwed in, is torqued to the right spec.
And while you may not have heard of torque screwdriver, you surely have seen torque power drill, right?
🤔
E.g my battery powered power drill (Makita BDF343) has gear selection wheel on it, from where i can adjust the torque break-off point.
Mine looks like so, where the black numbers on silver ring is the gear selection wheel;
That is....IF you even know what battery powered power drill is.
🤔
Now, for MoBo screws, it doesn't matter that much if the screws are torqued exactly to the spec, since what standoff screws are supposed to do, is to hold MoBo in place inside the PC case.
I've screwed in all the screws by hand, but not used my full hand force to tighten the screws, since you can easily either strip the screw from threads, or mess up the threads that you can not unscrew it afterwards. Instead, i've screwed the screws in until screw doesn't freely rotate anymore and i feel good resistance. And then, a small touch of force to make sure the screw is tight. Of course, i can't describe the exact torque force of my hand.
😆
It's just something i've learnt with experience over the years, to know how much force to use.
Like i said, i don't use (or have) torque screwdriver. For that, i have my Makita power drill with gear selection.
As of which one to choose from, well, i'm not a mechanic and can't tell which is best. Thus, need to look comparison videos, like this one;
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hymvUUKoRxQ
Momentary touch will do. Unless you plan to buy the ESD strap to ground yourself at all times.
And few touches in-between as well. E.g ground yourself, handle the MoBo (install components), but when you step away to unpack some other component, before touching the MoBo again, momentary touch again to ground yourself. At least that's what i've been doing when assembling/servicing my PCs.
I've done my PC assembly/servicing barefoot. And on top of solid oak hardwood floor we have in our flat.
Socks create static charge in you, especially cotton ones, more so when walking on vinyl.
Flip-flops depend on the flip-flop type, since there are ESD proof/certified flip-flops out there, that will not create static charge in you when you wear those.
E.g i have Solid Gear Atlantic "flip-flops" (
specs
) that meet EN 20345:2011 standard and have S1P, SRC, ESD and HRO certifications. Meaning that while i wear those, i won't generate static charge in my body due to friction between footwear and flooring.
Looks like the best flooring in your home, where to assemble the PC, to avoid static charge buildup in yourself.
it is both p12 and p10!
each page in a PDF contains two page numbers! One is the viewer’s page number, starting from 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, etc., an absolute reference. The other is the actual document number, p10 for example.
the benefit of the viewer’s number is that when using software like Adobe Acrobat, you can simply input it and jump to the desired page, which works even with unnumbered files, such as converting images to PDF.
according to the manual, entering 12 in Adobe Acrobat will correctly load the intended page. telling you p10 would be much more difficult.
i usually stick to absolute page numbers because they simplify counting pages for printing and selecting specific sections, like a chapter or a language version of the manual.
the page numbers in the manual reset for each language, meaning there are many page 10s in one document!
for instance, if you want the French p10, just enter 155 in Adobe Acrobat.
the document’s page number is preferable when printing, though it can become confusing—especially with the beginning letters i, ii, iii, etc.—and varies depending on language.
the manual mentions that the first two pages of a MOBO manual are without a document page number.
i own a powered drill from Agojama with torque control but no gauge; I have an unused Bosch one with numbers 1-5, but it’s sealed and I prefer not to open it.
i also consider a used Bestool Kanon 12LTDK from the video, endorsed by MSI. it has a gauge in KGfCM, but finding one on Amazon is tricky—some are too expensive (over 4 kgfcm) or have inconsistent units.
conversion between systems is tricky: 1 kgfcm ≈ 0.0980665 N.m, and the manual seems to mix units, making it hard to trust.
amazon offers some by other companies, but they need to cover 3 kgfcm, which matches the manual’s reference, equating to about 0.2941995 N.m.
the earlier number likely represents a conversion constant for mass to weight, while the current unit (N.m) is more standard in physics.
they should use SI units for precision, as forces should be expressed in Newtons and meters.
this precision matters because they’re giving a specific force—3 kgfcm. i’d prefer a torque screwdriver to ensure accuracy, since they’re very detail-oriented.
there’s also the question of whether the flooring is oiled or varnished; experts couldn’t confirm, leaving uncertainty.
i once considered getting oak but faced delays and had to switch to bamboo, which caused further issues. both materials can be damaged easily, though sanding and re-applying finish might help.
for bathrooms or kitchens, laminate seems better since water-resistant options are available.
some people do extreme things when working on projects, but it’s important to understand the reasoning behind their actions.
chose the DT000230 adjustable torque screwdriver for 0.05Nm to 0.6Nm - it offers 0.294 Nm with 6% accuracy and 0.005Nm steps, priced at £95.82 including postage. units are cN.m (0.01 N.m) and it should arrive by Monday.
I rely on the actual page number found on the printed page, not the total number of pages in the PDF document.
People often check the numbers directly on the pages rather than counting cover or previous pages.
For example, when reading a book, do you refer to the printed page numbers or also consider non-numbered pages for navigation?
I’m not sure. This was set up by the previous owner of the flat, and although they mentioned it, it’s been over ten years since then and I don’t recall it. Still, it shouldn’t matter because a professional can easily identify it during maintenance.
👍
By the way, I really like the BOA fastener it includes. All my shoes have these fasteners, which are much more convenient and easy to adjust than dealing with laces or Velcro straps.
Your manual provides three torque values in various units, depending on local standards; looks good.
Nowadays, I haven’t used any torque screwdrivers myself, as I’m not too concerned about matching the exact torque specification for the screws.
But in certain applications—like clockwork or mechanical watches—I definitely need a torque screwdriver.
The items I purchased cost me €169 after buying them new from the official dealership. Additionally, I swapped the original footbed for a Cofra Memory Plus ESD model, which is:
http://www.cofra.it/en/products/footwear...d_linea=86
All my shoes currently use Cofra Memory Plus ESD footbeds, providing excellent comfort and breathability. Here’s a link to a demonstration:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lFMUQeSTrgE
It’s user-friendly and delivers great results thanks to its precise adjustments.
For more information on BOA fasteners, see:
https://www.boafit.com/en-us/innovation
Solid Gear Atlantic includes BOA L-series fittings (L4, L5 or L6).
Velcro is convenient but tends to wear quickly. It allows various objects to be attached via hooks, which reduces grip quality. Over time, the plastic components where hooks are placed can also deteriorate, eventually making it impossible to fasten unless you replace the worn parts.
According to BOA fastener, these fasteners are highly durable and have never failed for me, even in varying weather conditions. I also own Treksta Hercules Gore-Tex winter boots equipped with BOA fasteners for waterproof use in winter, and these still function perfectly. They withstand rain, snow, mud, and temperatures as low as -25°C without issues.
A quality product isn’t just about performance and longevity but also includes clear, easy-to-understand instructions.
For PC assembly screws, a Philips PZ2 or PZ1 bit should be sufficient.
Well, indeed, the essential guide for PCs is crucial. Without it, we’d all lose direction, particularly when handling front I/O pins.
When selling used PC hardware, I don’t typically sell my items to others. I either donate them for free (which I have done) or send them to a recycling center. That’s personal choice.
Regarding watches, they have extremely small screws that can’t handle much torque, making it easy to strip or jam them.
For carpentry, precise torque is important because wood is softer than metal and applying too much force can damage it.
You mentioned an ESD wrist strap; I provided a solid example (GamersNexus) along with a video demonstrating its proper use. Now it’s up to you to locate a similar one locally (or within the EU), avoiding long shipping times and costs.
Additionally, the torque screwdriver has already arrived, though I might not have time to examine it today; hopefully, I can do so tomorrow. The next challenge is determining the correct shoe size, since some sizes require larger or smaller fits than usual. I need to find out if the seller permits exchanges for different sizes. If I purchase them from a store, it would be worth paying more, as I could try them in person. This is unfamiliar territory for me! Depending on where you are, the weather can be much harsher, and items must be durable. In Bristol, winters often stay above 14°C, so lower quality products might suffice. Here, in Bristol, we experience milder winters, making it easier to use less robust shoes. I may need to research suitable options. For driving, I usually wear plimsolls for better pedal feel, but when I leave the car, I switch to trainers, which takes a lot of time changing shoes. There are about eight shoe changes: two plimsolls removed, two trainers put on, then two removed again and two added back. Trainers require thicker socks than plimsolls. BOA-based ones would be superior.
I plan to study my drill bit kits to see if I can locate them. I own various drill bit sets over the years. It’s important to keep options open—whether I resell or not, it could become outdated soon. Before making decisions, I aim to understand how to avoid trouble, as it’s easier to get into difficulties than out of them.
This has happened before: when both the MDF and screws were damaged, I had no practical training, which made things worse. British schools don’t teach anything hands-on!
I’m also looking for higher-quality screws; the ones from B&Q tend to slip, especially with poor metal quality. I’ll try Travis Perkins sometime, as the carpenter who installed my projects got all his materials from them.
You need the correct screws, the right drill, and the proper torque—it’s quite a challenge!
I have some German calipers with a 10-0.9 gradation gauge. When aligned with the 1mm markings, it measures accurately to 0.1mm. For example, if the third mark matches a 1mm mark, you can count the increments easily, noting that each alignment changes by 0.1mm. I prefer mechanical devices over electronic ones because mechanical skills are fading. I’ve purchased a replica sextant, used by old sailors to measure angles between two distant objects and my eye. So far, I haven’t found a suitable mat; I’ll likely study this tomorrow.
Regarding rubber as a material, it seems good for preventing ESD. Maybe I can adapt something for a different purpose.