Are connecting sockets simple?
Are connecting sockets simple?
I intend to lay a network cable from downstairs outside, up the house side, into the loft. I already have a route in mind for it. The distance will be about 25 meters in the worst case.
This isn’t really a practical path inside the house. I considered running it inside but found the logistics too complicated.
I’ll need to remove one plug from the cable to fit through the side hole.
Setting up sockets seems manageable. On the wall, I can install one and connect wires there, then run another wire from the socket to a switch for internet access.
Or, I could drill a bigger hole to push the RJ45 connector through – not the best option.
Do I require any special tools?
You're looking for a tool-less keystone jack that fits a faceplate. This device will drive the wires into copper taps automatically, avoiding the need for a punchdown tool or a very thin screwdriver—both can be difficult. Ensure the jack matches your cable type (Cat5e, Cat6, or Cat6A), as wire thickness varies. While Cat6 might be more challenging, it offers better future compatibility. You can easily find guides and tutorials online to help you install the wires correctly.
You can also purchase a standard keystone jack along with a punchdown tool if you're interested in learning traditional methods. Tool-less jacks tend to be pricier than regular ones, so they're usually more suitable for occasional use rather than bulk purchases.
The plate is meant to be screwed into a receptacle box, but you can also install it directly into drywall. Just avoid over-tightening, as this could damage the screws. Keep extra cable on hand for future adjustments—such as cutting wires if needed for rewiring.
If the lower section is in a living room or similar area, consider placing wall jacks at both ends for easier access. This allows you to unplug cables quickly when necessary, rather than having them exposed permanently. This setup works well in basements or utility rooms where multiple wires are present.
Also, having a budget-friendly test tool would be helpful to confirm your wiring is correctly arranged in the pinout and to check for continuity, even though it won't ensure everything is flawless.
As long as you understand the wiring code, it's not a major issue, though I've done many projects and still admit I've made a lot of mistakes.
My vision isn't strong enough to clearly see the tiny wires connecting to the channels in the end piece when crimping, unless I'm using a desk-mounted magnifier lamp in the workshop. The crimping tools start at $25 for higher-quality options.
I also drilled larger holes, making it simple to reattach the patch once the wire is in place. On the inside drywall, a bit of drywall mud on your finger can seal the hole, and on the outside wall, silicone works well to close it.
In past rentals, I had to remove the wire after installation, patching both sides with a quick fix that never came back. A cable installer I observed did the same—drilling, pulling the wire through, then sealing it.
You can also leave the end piece attached to the wire instead of cutting it off. I have a file showing how to adjust the hole just enough so you can pull the taped wire through a 3-foot screwdriver and secure it properly.
Make sure the pipe is capable of draining. Avoid any areas that might trap water.
The kind of pipe required must be waterproof, such as PVC designed for outdoor use. If there is a leak, it indicates a significant issue.
Imagine that all outdoor pipes, regardless of their quality and installation, are destined to develop water issues.
OP, if you house has vinyl siding you could run the wire behind it and/or use the corner molding to run the wire out of the sun. There is a tool called a "zipper" that will make putting the pieces back easy. I would warn not to do so if it is very cold outside or if the vinyl is very old. It gets brittle under those conditions.