[ANSWERED]Worrying...
[ANSWERED]Worrying...
I have been really angry for more than a month trying to cool my package. It's stuck at 44+ degrees with sudden jumps of 10+. My setup is AMD Ryzen 7 3800x on an Asus TUF Gaming x570 wifi board. The power supply I use is a Powerspec 750W Gold unit, but it only has one CPU cable and the motherboard shows one big slot plus another for more slots. Last month I overcooked my chips to 4.45GHZ on low voltage for three weeks until they got warm, then messing around with voltages made them crash while playing. I went back to safe settings and kept crashing as it got hotter. Even lowering voltage slightly didn't help because the heat went up. I reset everything to default in BIOS and only enabled XMP to get my 3600MHz RAM working. With that, my lowest temp is 47 degrees but spikes go up to 62 even though I have a liquid cooler with liquid metal between the chip and the heatsink. Help!
Don't go crazy with overclocking those Ryzen 3000 chips. It's not worth the trouble, and it makes your setup worse than just letting things run naturally. You already have great cooling built-in, so don't waste that on fiddling with memory tweaks or PBO settings. Just look at some guides to see if tweaking RAM helps, but be careful not to push too hard; that can actually damage the chip itself. 4.5ghz is what you get advertised for one core, but the CPU tries to hit that speed across all cores as long as it has enough power and heat left over. It follows a strict rule so it doesn't blow up while trying to boost. You're used to old CPUs with better performance, so these new ones feel different. The strange high temps are caused by how quickly those Ryzen 3000 chips try to boost their speed in bursts.
Don't try to overclock a Ryzen 3000 processor. It's not worth the effort and it gives you less performance than getting great cooling with your existing cooler and tweaking your RAM settings. Check some guides on how to adjust the memory timings for better results. Also, consider PBO (Performance Boost Optimization), though some people say even that isn't necessary if you have good thermal and cooling already. Pushing it too much can actually damage the chip.
Here is another important point: 4.5GHz is just the speed shown on a single core, not all of them at once. But the CPU WILL try to speed up to that rate across ALL cores if there is enough power and heat room left for it. It follows strict rules so as not to fry itself.
You are used to older processors now. Those strange high temps come from two main reasons: the very fast "bursty" way Ryzen speeds up, combined with a much denser 7nm chip design that makes heat grow faster than on before.
Why do these chips get worse if you overclock them manually? Look at how they work under normal light loads vs. when you are really working hard. On light loads, the stock CPU runs high voltage but only uses very few threads at once and sticks to the 4.5GHz mark. When you get heavy loads with many active threads, the chip tries to boost all those threads up to 4.5GHz depending on how fast it is getting there. With a manual override like an OC, the CPU can't go higher than that setting because of your input. You sacrifice some single-core speed for slightly more multitasking, but you might get stuck at 3800X without going above the stated max. What I meant by highlighting this: manually overclocking these chips causes problems. These CPUs regulate their electricity use to stay safe from overclocks, and that feature is gone. You can't handle high current draw when working hard because it simply isn't possible on these models. And yes, voltage and current are completely different things. Even if you lower the core voltage (vcore), the power consumption might still be very high because of how they manage current. People have ruined their Ryzen 3000 CPUs by manually overclocking them from the start.
5) If I remember right, that Corsair H150i Pro RGB isn't a performance-focused all-in-one, but it is one of the quietest ones on the market. The fans aren't super loud, but they are essential to keep noise down as much as possible. The pump motor does most of the work here. Getting louder fans won't help much because this unit's radiator was designed for low-speed cooling fans.
TL;DR: Just turn off the overclocking. Your thermals and setup look fine!
I took the battery off, waited ten minutes, put liquid metal on the CPU again, and installed fresh Windows 10 Pro. The XMP setting stayed default, so there was no overvoltage or overclocking involved. I just left it running at stock settings with a slight voltage drop of -0.1125 volts. Now the system is working perfectly. Temps are cool, around 37 degrees Celsius, and under Cinebench they don't go higher than 77 degrees. Even on normal tasks or while gaming, temperatures stay between 55 and 65 degrees. So this Asus TUG Gaming x570 Plus isn't a good card for overclocking at all. I'm happy with my Aorus Elite instead.
What are you talking about isn't actually a problem, right? Did I forget something or make a mistake? You could explain this to me so it helps. Thank you.
It was all in my first post about this Aorus Elite board. It won't change much because neither of those boards has a problem running with a 3800X. Maybe there are tiny differences in how fast the base clocks run, but that's really it. Ryzen 3000s don't like Intel-style overclocking at all. Since you already have a great cooler, use PBO or just leave the RAM alone and play around with things like the Ryzen 3000 Dram Calculator instead.
As Phaaze was kind enough to mention, you have a Ryzen, not an intel. And that's an important distinction. Intel at idle lower clocks/voltage on all cores, but all cores remain active. So any background tasks get split up amongst the varied cores and you'll only see the hottest reported. The spikes are services starting up, so that's the core usually reported. Ryzen differs, almost opposite (go figure amd not doing things the way Intel does...). At idle it'll put all the cores Inactive, off the grid asleep. Except one. That one gets the full load of everything running in the background, all 80+ tasks, and being the full load it'll see higher temps than the few tasks on any single Intel core. So it naturally runs in the 40°C range±. Meaning spikes can be 2 or 3 services starting up simultaneously, so spikes over 60°C are also totally normal. You are freaking out about package temp, when package temp is normally the hottest running core, which happens to be the only running core on a Ryzen until you apply a load, like move the mouse, and that instantly wakes up all the other cores. You don't have temp issues. No more than any other Ryzen user. You just failed to understand the difference to Intel way of doing things. Intel picks the hottest running core, Ryzen picks the only running core. The rest of the cpu is asleep at barely over case temps. As far as mobo's go, Gigabyte cheats in its bios, Asus does not. AMD set guidelines to regulate exactly what power limits a stock cpu should be. Asus sticks to those factory guidelines like glue, Gigabyte and MSI do not. In the bios they artificially set a limit far beyond what they are supposed to be. For instance the power limit on a 10600k might be 95w and have a turbo duration of 56 seconds. That's factory Intel specs. Gigabyte changed that to 4095w and turbo duration of 999......... seconds. That means an all core turbo of 5.1GHz for a second or 2 then gets 4.7GHz permanently, whereas on Asus boards you get 5.1GHz for a second or 2, 4.7GHz for 56 seconds then 4.2GHz for the rest of the test. Gives Asus a bad reputation for underwhelming performance by Gigabyte artificially raising bios limits, technically not an overclock as it's a factory optimized default setting. Which also brings the heat and some above average voltage, which can mess with actual manual OC .... Ryzens are built to handle upto 1.5v at idle/extremely light loads with low current use. 1.325v at a more medium load with more medium current use. Gaming is an extreme load, extreme current use, 1.2v should be max. You are cpu limited to 125w use, so with a 90A load maxing out PBO/current use, you don't want to be in the 1.3v+ range or you can create instability, premature damage to the cpu etc. As said prior, it's a Ryzen not an intel, it has a use for current limits so doesn't behave or OC like an intel will.
Other people have said that using PBO is better than manually setting an OC for better results. One thing to watch out for: a voltage of 1.325V can hurt your CPU. Some folks got worse performance at voltages like 1.3 or 1.28, but the outcome depends on how much heat your cooler handles. I own a 3800X processor. I've found that PBO gives me more speed gains than manual overcomes. I configured my settings to match: PPT set to 330, TDC at 330 (wait, that repeats), EDC at 140, with a 2x multiplier and specific offsets. But if you rely on good cooling, you might need something like 10X scalar instead. Or try the EDC hack where you set EDC to 10 so your PBO boosts work better.
A few BIOS settings have more than one Power On Hold (PBO) level.