And the 1090t black edition overclocking
And the 1090t black edition overclocking
The wattage of your PSU isn't important. It doesn't matter much. There are many 750w models that can barely handle 400w. The brand and model number are essential. Any issue you encounter with a computer system usually stems from a faulty, low-quality, or inexpensive power supply. Understanding what you have is crucial. All other details are just assumptions.
powersupply is a Corsair professional series FX 750W. I checked my system using HWMonitor and found around 60-65 degrees on the CPU, with Blade and soul running in the background. Isn't that a bit high?
There is no FX 750 produced by Corsair. It seems there might be a mistake in the name or model being referenced. Corsair has previously manufactured CX, HX, AX and other units listed online. However, based on available information, it appears that Corsair has never produced an FX series PSU.
Running at 65°C is excessive for normal operation, especially under typical stress conditions such as Prime95 v26.6 or an Intel burn test on high settings. This temperature suggests a thermal problem, possibly due to inadequate CPU or case cooling, excessive voltage, improper paste application, or incorrect cooler pressure.
CPU temperatures should generally stay below the low 60s unless performing specific CPU stress tests.
Are you using the stock cooler right now? And are you attempting to overclock with it? Well, let me clarify—overclocking with a stock CPU cooler and heatsink isn't recommended. These components are mainly built for basic cooling in standard setups, let alone under increased load. I wouldn't recommend the 212 EVO; I'd go with either the Cryorig H7 or H5. The price gap between the EVO and H7 is minimal, and the H7 offers superior design and quieter operation.
The HX 750 seems acceptable. I don’t really like Corsair power supplies, but they’re decent overall.
Yes, that's why I was looking into the forum. The CPU isn't overclocked at all—it's running stock at that point... In that scenario, I might consider going with the H7, as it's not too costly.
It's a solid entry-level cooler for mild overclocking, especially with a 125w TDP chip. If you aim for speeds above 3.6 or 3.7Ghz during full-time overclocking, you should definitely opt for the H5 Ultimate/Universal or a superior cooler. Otherwise, you'll likely face a CPU fan spinning hard even at moderate loads. The EVO and H7 both offer 120mm cooling, while the H5 features a 140mm cooler with a larger heatsink that delivers better performance at lower speeds compared to smaller fans and heatsinks.
The choice really comes down to your specific needs and goals. If you plan for sustained 4Ghz or higher overclocking, it's wise to choose the right cooler from the start to avoid disappointment later.
Well if thats the case, I'll deff get a Fan that could cool it down at full time 4.0, I Imagine that this CPU has had alot of life taken from it as it must have been running at 60-65 Degrees for a very long time, as the PC is always on, its my home media server and I never checked the Temps. Im actually pretty shocked that temps were that high, those base coolers really sucked should coughed up the extra $50 for the heatsync.
Is there a special fan you would recomend for 4.0 Full time, as well, should I invest in a special Thermal paste?
(That H7 looked like you just screwed it in to the back of the mobbo with a plate, idk if that'd even fit on my pc..)
Nvm about the Size combatability I figured that out. Thanks.
How about that H5?
I'll be getting a new top fan as I think its gonna die soon, and a side fan as I dont have 1.
All the coolers discussed are designed to fit the standard mounting system or come with adapters for different socket types. In certain situations, this might mean taking out the original mounting hardware and using an adapter along with a backplate. This applies broadly to most effective coolers, and honestly, it’s disappointing that Cooler Master’s 212 EVO isn’t compatible in the way you’d like. This particular cooler is quite versatile, but it really falls short compared to other popular options. If Crashman considers it a strong competitor, then it’s still a viable choice.
I tried the Shadow Rock Slim. I’m hoping it will work out. It seems likely because my CPU was overheating and causing crashes, making the game too slow. With Heatsync I might be able to adjust it a bit if not up to 4.0, and run the game at 3.2 as suggested by Wildcard. Thanks for your assistance.