F5F Stay Refreshed Hardware Desktop After upgrading the CPU, the computer keeps restarting every half minute when powered on.

After upgrading the CPU, the computer keeps restarting every half minute when powered on.

After upgrading the CPU, the computer keeps restarting every half minute when powered on.

H
HyPeRMANIAC12
Member
53
09-06-2021, 06:54 PM
#1
Hi everyone!
I recently replaced my old Intel i3-10105 with a more powerful Intel i9-10900KF. After facing some issues with the PC not displaying any images, I finally managed to boot into Windows 11.
Later, after a short wait (about half a minute), the system restarted without showing any error messages or the usual Windows bluescreen.
I did some quick research and discovered a solution—reinstalling Windows 11—which worked just like before.
However, I'm still a bit upset because it seems to work with my motherboard and there are plenty of resources available.
H
HyPeRMANIAC12
09-06-2021, 06:54 PM #1

Hi everyone!
I recently replaced my old Intel i3-10105 with a more powerful Intel i9-10900KF. After facing some issues with the PC not displaying any images, I finally managed to boot into Windows 11.
Later, after a short wait (about half a minute), the system restarted without showing any error messages or the usual Windows bluescreen.
I did some quick research and discovered a solution—reinstalling Windows 11—which worked just like before.
However, I'm still a bit upset because it seems to work with my motherboard and there are plenty of resources available.

M
MRmonkey12
Junior Member
37
09-06-2021, 08:54 PM
#2
Welcome to the forums, newcomer!
You don't put a processor like an i9 on a motherboard that's got a horribly designed VRM, let alone a motherboard that's meant for an office machine.
Get a new motherboard with a beefy VRM design(and a heatsink atop of it,. notably an Z490 or Z590 chipset board.
On second thoughts, please list the specs to your build like so:
CPU:
CPU cooler:
Motherboard:
Ram:
SSD/HDD:
GPU:
PSU:
Chassis:
OS:
Monitor:
include the age of the PSU apart from it's make and model. BIOS version for your motherboard at this moment of time.
M
MRmonkey12
09-06-2021, 08:54 PM #2

Welcome to the forums, newcomer!
You don't put a processor like an i9 on a motherboard that's got a horribly designed VRM, let alone a motherboard that's meant for an office machine.
Get a new motherboard with a beefy VRM design(and a heatsink atop of it,. notably an Z490 or Z590 chipset board.
On second thoughts, please list the specs to your build like so:
CPU:
CPU cooler:
Motherboard:
Ram:
SSD/HDD:
GPU:
PSU:
Chassis:
OS:
Monitor:
include the age of the PSU apart from it's make and model. BIOS version for your motherboard at this moment of time.

1
14w1z0r
Junior Member
3
09-06-2021, 10:39 PM
#3
So, regarding the motherboard being for office use...That I didn't know. In my country this was sold as an entry gaming desktop for around 400 Euros in 2021(Be aware that almost everything is already modified from the original, that being said the only "original parts" on this are the Motherboard, the PSU and the I3 CPU). This said, I can't exactly spend more on the machine for now and I need it. If there is a way to somewhat dodge that option for now, that would be good.
PC Specs:
CPU: Intel I9 10900KF (Or Intel I3 10105)
CPU Cooler: The cooler that came with the I3 10105
Motherboard: Asus Prime H410M-K (The most recent one, which should be 2.20)
RAM: 32GB 2666MHz
SSD: 1TB Crucial (SATA)
GPU: SPARKLE Intel® Arc™ A750 ORC OC Edition, 8GB GDDR6
PSU: Hummer Alpha 600W Bronze
Chassis: AeroCool Cyclon
OS: Windows 11 Pro
Monitor: LG UltraGear 32GS60QC-B 31.5" LED VA QHD 180Hz FreeSync
1
14w1z0r
09-06-2021, 10:39 PM #3

So, regarding the motherboard being for office use...That I didn't know. In my country this was sold as an entry gaming desktop for around 400 Euros in 2021(Be aware that almost everything is already modified from the original, that being said the only "original parts" on this are the Motherboard, the PSU and the I3 CPU). This said, I can't exactly spend more on the machine for now and I need it. If there is a way to somewhat dodge that option for now, that would be good.
PC Specs:
CPU: Intel I9 10900KF (Or Intel I3 10105)
CPU Cooler: The cooler that came with the I3 10105
Motherboard: Asus Prime H410M-K (The most recent one, which should be 2.20)
RAM: 32GB 2666MHz
SSD: 1TB Crucial (SATA)
GPU: SPARKLE Intel® Arc™ A750 ORC OC Edition, 8GB GDDR6
PSU: Hummer Alpha 600W Bronze
Chassis: AeroCool Cyclon
OS: Windows 11 Pro
Monitor: LG UltraGear 32GS60QC-B 31.5" LED VA QHD 180Hz FreeSync

T
timidgecko1134
Member
209
09-07-2021, 03:00 AM
#4
Indications of failure after a period point toward a thermal problem.
The Intel stock cooler may not be sufficient for cooling an I9 processor.
It's also possible the reinstallation wasn't carried out correctly.
Check HWmonitor for core temperatures reaching 100°C, displayed in red—this signals throttling.
Consider upgrading to a more robust cooler.
In the meantime, temporarily disable certain cores.
Avoid relying on default motherboard settings like load optimal defaults.
If you need to remount, follow these steps:

----------------how to mount the stock Intel cooler--------------
Installing the stock Intel cooler can be challenging.
A subpar fit will lead to elevated CPU temperatures.
Once correctly installed, expect idle temps to sit between 10-15°C above ambient.
To secure it properly, place the motherboard on the foam or cardboard backing inside the case.
The cooler comes pre-applied with paste, consisting of three grey strips.
The four push pins should align precisely: rotate them counterclockwise and pull firmly.
Spend time understanding their operation.
Position the pins exactly over the motherboard slots.
If any are misaligned, they may harm the delicate pins.
Apply pressure to a diagonal pair of pins simultaneously, then the opposite pair.
Pressing down on the top black pins will expand the white plastic ones, securing the cooler.
Do this in pairs; doing it one at a time won’t align them correctly.
Finally, inspect the motherboard back to ensure all four pins are fully seated and the cooler is stable.
This step is crucial, which is why removing the case is recommended.
Alternatively, use a case with an opening that reveals the pins clearly.
You can still mount the cooler while keeping the motherboard inside, but you must confirm the pins are properly inserted and locked.
When removing the cooler, warm it up by running the CPU to melt the paste before shutting down and powering off the system. This simplifies removal.
Turn the pins counterclockwise to release them.
Wipe away the old paste with alcohol and a lint-free cloth, such as a coffee filter.
Apply a thin layer of paste sparingly—just a small rice-sized amount in the center will help with heat distribution.
Be careful not to apply too little.
T
timidgecko1134
09-07-2021, 03:00 AM #4

Indications of failure after a period point toward a thermal problem.
The Intel stock cooler may not be sufficient for cooling an I9 processor.
It's also possible the reinstallation wasn't carried out correctly.
Check HWmonitor for core temperatures reaching 100°C, displayed in red—this signals throttling.
Consider upgrading to a more robust cooler.
In the meantime, temporarily disable certain cores.
Avoid relying on default motherboard settings like load optimal defaults.
If you need to remount, follow these steps:

----------------how to mount the stock Intel cooler--------------
Installing the stock Intel cooler can be challenging.
A subpar fit will lead to elevated CPU temperatures.
Once correctly installed, expect idle temps to sit between 10-15°C above ambient.
To secure it properly, place the motherboard on the foam or cardboard backing inside the case.
The cooler comes pre-applied with paste, consisting of three grey strips.
The four push pins should align precisely: rotate them counterclockwise and pull firmly.
Spend time understanding their operation.
Position the pins exactly over the motherboard slots.
If any are misaligned, they may harm the delicate pins.
Apply pressure to a diagonal pair of pins simultaneously, then the opposite pair.
Pressing down on the top black pins will expand the white plastic ones, securing the cooler.
Do this in pairs; doing it one at a time won’t align them correctly.
Finally, inspect the motherboard back to ensure all four pins are fully seated and the cooler is stable.
This step is crucial, which is why removing the case is recommended.
Alternatively, use a case with an opening that reveals the pins clearly.
You can still mount the cooler while keeping the motherboard inside, but you must confirm the pins are properly inserted and locked.
When removing the cooler, warm it up by running the CPU to melt the paste before shutting down and powering off the system. This simplifies removal.
Turn the pins counterclockwise to release them.
Wipe away the old paste with alcohol and a lint-free cloth, such as a coffee filter.
Apply a thin layer of paste sparingly—just a small rice-sized amount in the center will help with heat distribution.
Be careful not to apply too little.

B
blondeminion
Senior Member
594
09-13-2021, 03:32 AM
#5
It seems like there might be an issue. The temperatures didn’t quite hit the expected levels, with the best I managed to record being 81°C. On idle, Brave and HWmonitor are showing temperatures around 41 or 44°C. Also, the cooler I used was new, but the room where the machine is located doesn’t have good ventilation—there’s some space for airflow, though limited. The Intel cooler is very slim, so I’m not sure if that’s a concern.
B
blondeminion
09-13-2021, 03:32 AM #5

It seems like there might be an issue. The temperatures didn’t quite hit the expected levels, with the best I managed to record being 81°C. On idle, Brave and HWmonitor are showing temperatures around 41 or 44°C. Also, the cooler I used was new, but the room where the machine is located doesn’t have good ventilation—there’s some space for airflow, though limited. The Intel cooler is very slim, so I’m not sure if that’s a concern.

L
Lior1001
Member
143
09-13-2021, 09:54 AM
#6
Turn off Intel Turbo boost and operate at standard performance levels. If heat problems continue, deactivate E-cores or try minor voltage reduction.
L
Lior1001
09-13-2021, 09:54 AM #6

Turn off Intel Turbo boost and operate at standard performance levels. If heat problems continue, deactivate E-cores or try minor voltage reduction.

_
_FreeZe_YT_
Member
145
09-20-2021, 03:05 PM
#7
You're encountering three issues that need addressing. The first is that the mobile processor isn't adequate for the CPU needs. The second is that the cooler isn't sufficient. The third concerns whether the power supply can handle the entire system load. Given how quickly the system fails, it seems the main challenge is likely the first one. Even if you upgrade the mobile, you'll still face problems with the second and third components. You might want to consider either reverting to an older CPU or completely rebuilding your setup (mobile, cooler, PSU, and chassis).
_
_FreeZe_YT_
09-20-2021, 03:05 PM #7

You're encountering three issues that need addressing. The first is that the mobile processor isn't adequate for the CPU needs. The second is that the cooler isn't sufficient. The third concerns whether the power supply can handle the entire system load. Given how quickly the system fails, it seems the main challenge is likely the first one. Even if you upgrade the mobile, you'll still face problems with the second and third components. You might want to consider either reverting to an older CPU or completely rebuilding your setup (mobile, cooler, PSU, and chassis).

L
l2p_Robinhudi
Member
67
09-22-2021, 01:03 AM
#8
Boot into safe mode and employ ddu to remove the installed arc drivers. I faced a very similar problem yesterday after updating my arc drivers. It required restarting the process, reinstalling the software, and creating a system restore point. During the driver update, it somehow damaged my .netfiles and had to be reinstalled as well.
L
l2p_Robinhudi
09-22-2021, 01:03 AM #8

Boot into safe mode and employ ddu to remove the installed arc drivers. I faced a very similar problem yesterday after updating my arc drivers. It required restarting the process, reinstalling the software, and creating a system restore point. During the driver update, it somehow damaged my .netfiles and had to be reinstalled as well.

F
Frontline107
Junior Member
17
09-22-2021, 08:34 AM
#9
the representatives in your nation had the correct view
https://search.brave.com/search?q=i...co...&summary=1
F
Frontline107
09-22-2021, 08:34 AM #9

the representatives in your nation had the correct view
https://search.brave.com/search?q=i...co...&summary=1

S
Sheik1soul
Senior Member
511
09-27-2021, 05:11 PM
#10
Well, one of the problems has already been resolved, which is the cooler part... I had to restrict the CPU to 6/12 so it wouldn't restart constantly. Running at 8/16 was fine, but pushing it harder for more than half an hour would cause it to restart again. Right now, the most pressing issue seems to be the PSU. Also, the chassis itself isn’t a concern—I found out what it is, whether it’s a standard or AeroCool model, but I’m not sure. All I know is that it’s an AeroCool Cyclon. I only have one fan in the chassis (the original one) and another for the CPU cooler.
S
Sheik1soul
09-27-2021, 05:11 PM #10

Well, one of the problems has already been resolved, which is the cooler part... I had to restrict the CPU to 6/12 so it wouldn't restart constantly. Running at 8/16 was fine, but pushing it harder for more than half an hour would cause it to restart again. Right now, the most pressing issue seems to be the PSU. Also, the chassis itself isn’t a concern—I found out what it is, whether it’s a standard or AeroCool model, but I’m not sure. All I know is that it’s an AeroCool Cyclon. I only have one fan in the chassis (the original one) and another for the CPU cooler.