Adjust the BIOS settings for your AMD 7 2700X and ROG Strix X470-F gaming graphics card.
Adjust the BIOS settings for your AMD 7 2700X and ROG Strix X470-F gaming graphics card.
I fully support this.
Excellent work, Redneck5439.
Such detailed content will help many people who want to customize a 2700x on an ROG Strix X470-F MB.
I tried to boost my OC but the Prime-x470 4602 BIOS isn't compatible. It lacks the "Performance Enhancer" feature.
It's crucial to study a BIOS for your MB prior to updating. I'm currently using a version three ahead of the latest one, as it offers the best stability with my CPU and RAM setup.
I exchanged positions multiple times between the Prime X470 and the ROG Strix X470-F until I decided to buy the Strix. The motherboards are quite alike, but the Strix offered superior VRMs—6+2+2 phases—and I think the Prime X470 has a 4+2 phase setup, whereas the Strix’s BIOS is essentially a limited version of the Hero VII’s. At the time, I was planning to upgrade to a Ryzen+ after moving from an FX 8370, so I assumed I wouldn’t need to overclock. The Hero VII seemed too advanced for my needs, but I should have realized my OCD would drive me to push beyond what my 2700X could handle.
I think the Strix board can still perform well with upgrades to a 3700X, 3800X, maybe even the 3900X and beyond, potentially reaching 2020. However, after experimenting with a friend’s setup using a Hero VII, I’d have preferred the Hero VII if I had to start over. The Hero VII’s BIOS enabled us to push his rig to 4.4Ghz all-core on a NH-D15 cooler (with two 140mm fans), and I’m confident his processor could hit 4.5Ghz on a custom loop. Although I might have pushed my CPU further due to thermal limits, the Strix’s BIOS simply didn’t support that level of fine-tuning.
Thanks for the thorough instructions. I’ve been having a few stressful days at work and plan to review this tonight. I’m trying to determine if the Noctua components will fit without opening the case or using a tape measure. Since the board is identical, it should work fine—just check the height. I own an EVGA DG-77 case; I was initially considering the D15 but think it’s unnecessary even if it fits. The concern about the +offset and V on cores makes me cautious, but I’ll follow your advice. The only other thing is a BIOS update, which I assume is my starting point. I thought about it during setup but saw some FAQs that discouraged it. I’ll wait until there’s a solid reason to proceed. Now I’m deciding.
Keep up the great support!
Mike
Chipset and bios updated.
Current settings restored to previous ones.
CB20(4029) HWMonitor data available at the provided link.
I’m planning to proceed... setting at PE level 2, skipping +offset unless I encounter boot issues or other problems.
Hope it works... still need to order a cooler. It seems it should fit, as the Prism is 6.3 inches and the 14S is 6.5, leaving about 3 or more inches of space above the prism in my case.
I followed all the configurations (without adding an offset, just letting it be but Max V seen in HWM is 1.531V that's safe??). I ran CB20 (3919) but only reached 83°C instead of 85°C... I'll download one of the programs to test stability and report back. Cheers.
I've experienced success with the NH-U14S, but be sure to contact Nocuta right after placing your order and obtain the AM4 mounting kit. Only mounts compatible with Intel and AM3 sockets are included in this model. I previously used the NH-D15S on an older build (AM3+ FX 8370), but during cleaning I discovered the cooler had cracked my board (Asus Sabertooth). Although it might have been a coincidence, the cooler was heavier than the 14S, so I chose the safer option of selecting the 14S.
I've completed full rendering projects with all cores at 4.35Ghz and haven't encountered temperatures above 74°C yet. At my standard 4.25Ghz during daily content creation, temperatures never surpassed 70°C, and gaming sessions stayed under 55°C. This cooler performs exceptionally well, particularly when paired with two 140mm fans in a push-pull configuration.
At level 2, you might not need a voltage offset, as I'm unsure when I first started adding extra voltage. Running PE level 4 initially required increasing the voltage to 0.05000, which initially seemed risky but provided stability and kept voltages within safe limits. Before upgrading to the 14S, I managed to use PE level 3 with a positive voltage offset of 0.03000 on the original Prism cooler. However, during that time it was winter outside, possibly offering a helpful breeze for cooling, and as always, I'm quite sensitive to temperature control—hence my reliance on six 140mm case fans.
Over the years, I've learned that maintaining a reliable cooler extends component lifespan and enhances performance.