A bit of a doozy
A bit of a doozy
I'm currently working on this with just one open browser window in hopes of getting more time. My computer has been shutting down without warning for months now, and I don't know what might be causing it. The issues I've noticed include:
My machine restarts abruptly, then restarts again right away. There are no blue screens or error messages, and the event viewer only shows the standard shutdown notice.
I've tried several troubleshooting steps:
- Disconnected my SLI bridge and one graphics card, then tried the other one after another power-off
- Checked each RAM stick separately and within software, but got nothing
- Switched out the PSU with a similar one I had on hand
- Reinstalled Windows
- Moved Windows to a newer SSD
- Ran CPU tests and benchmarks
- Replaced the whole system board and CPU (I didn't have a second motherboard for testing)
At this stage, I'm really stuck. The setup is quite old (and I'm on a tight budget):
Windows 10
Asus ROG Rampage V Extreme Motherboard
Intel i7-6950X
GTX 2080TI (previously SLI bridged, not reinstalled until stability is resolved)
64 GB DDR4
Two SSDs connected via SATA
Six fans, three front panels, three top fans for the radiator
Any suggestions or alternatives would be greatly appreciated.
PSU(s)
Check make, model, wattage, age, and condition (new, used, refurbished?).
Did you only use the cables that came with each PSU?
= = = =
Power off, unplug, and open the case.
Remove dust and debris carefully.
Inspect visually and by touch to ensure all connectors, cards, RAM, jumpers, and case connections are securely installed.
Use a bright flashlight to look for damage signs: exposed wires, melted insulation, twisted or bent wires, discoloration, corrosion, cracks, loose screws, moisture, swollen parts, sagging GPU.
Replace the CMOS battery with a fresh one according to the Motherboard’s User Guide/Manual.
If possible, verify Reliability History/Monitor and Event Viewer for any error codes, warnings, or events logged near shutdowns.
The original power supply is 1600W, the replacement is 1200W, which is still more than my requirements. The 1200W unit is about five years old, while I've been using the 1600W for around ten years. Throughout all my component changes, I’ve checked the ports and used a blower to clear any possible debris, but nothing was found. The problem occurs with two different power supplies and two different motherboards. My PSU was around ten years old, and the test was about five years old. I’m considering a Cmos upgrade, but I don’t have a coin battery available right now. The path I’m exploring comes from an unusual detail I saw in HWMonitor. For some reason, my 8TB SSD (purchased recently) shows 20k powered on hours, so I’ve removed it to check stability. I’ll keep you updated.
1600W ETH Miner Power Supply from qingsea, 10 years old, is operational.
1000W Hive by rosewill, approximately 5 years old, was in use for about four years before installation in my system.
I am not familiar with the first and the second seems like it may be junk. If I had to bet money, I'd say the first PSU is also not the greatest. What country are you available to purchase parts from? If from the US,
here is what I would recommend to rule out the PSUs
. Its not the literal best PSU in the world but very good, especially for the price.
I mean, I've stayed stable since I posted and took out the hard drive, doing HEAVY stress tests all night just to push it to failure. I had to stop because it caused the room temperature to rise. Unfortunately, I won't know if anything will fix the problem for a week after, since crashes can last an hour or three days, depending on how it happens before I even post. The post was as brief as booting into Windows, opening the browser, then turning it off.
I've experienced motherboards that won't turn on when the CR2032 battery is completely drained (below 1.0V). I swap batteries after five years or when the voltage falls from 3.25V (new) to about 2.5V. It helps avoid odd issues if the voltage drops even more below 2.0V.
In my area, new batteries aren't cheap unless you purchase them individually in a pack at the supermarket. I can obtain 5 or 10 high-quality CR2032 batteries from various online sellers for the cost of one supermarket battery.
As @helper800 advises, consider using another (good quality) PSU, preferably brand new Tier-A. The cheaper and older the PSU, the less confidence I have it will function reliably. Some PSUs include a 3-year warranty or less. Quality PSUs usually come with a 10-year warranty. The length of the warranty reflects the manufacturer's assurance they won't receive many claims within that timeframe.
A PSU might still operate well beyond its warranty expiration, but eventually the electrolytes can dry out, leading to various problems such as high ripple voltage.