You haven't received 300 Mbps, might your modem be the issue?
You haven't received 300 Mbps, might your modem be the issue?
I’ll summarize your situation and the steps you’ve taken so far.
You have a high-speed fiber connection (300Mbps) with a wired Ethernet link, but your Wi-Fi performance is inconsistent. You’ve noticed speeds ranging from 30-43Mbps, even when using the same PC and adapter. The modem is a Huawei HG8245H, and you’ve tried various configurations—changing channels, frequencies, and settings—but still don’t reach the advertised speeds.
Your concern is whether Wi-Fi hardware might be limiting your throughput, especially since similar devices elsewhere are struggling. You’ve also mentioned that your university connection is around 200Mbps, which is comparable.
It might help to check if other devices on the same network are experiencing similar issues, or if interference from other networks affects your signal. Also, ensure your router is updated and consider using a wired connection for critical tasks. If problems persist, contacting the ISP for further diagnostics could be useful.
I own the precise specification for the fiber gateway you mentioned. My performance is around 50mbps wireless and 200mbps over LAN. The wireless connection isn't strong; it works at full speed only in open spaces (one room) without obstacles. Inside another room, speeds drop to 30mbps. It doesn't function at all when there are three walls between you and the router. For high-speed needs, this device isn't suitable. The theoretical maximum Wi-Fi speed is 72mbps even in close proximity. I recommend using a Wi-Fi extender or upgrading to a 5GHz model.
Noticing the device is set to N for wireless, I question if the chip can manage 300mbps. It might be better to buy your own router.
WiFi will never reach those speeds on 801.11n. For AC-level performance, you’ll need a dedicated access point with modern capabilities. This isn’t just the ISP’s responsibility—it’s often a strategy by most providers to boost profits by using outdated or underpowered equipment.
Here are some TP Link models you might consider for better performance. It's simpler to source TP Link, but other brands could also work. Thanks for asking! For a faster connection, look into TP Link routers like the TP-Link TL-WN550 or TP-Link TL-SG1000. Which one would you prefer? Also, consider using the recommended AC adapter for optimal results. Thanks!
Consider Ubiquiti options like the AC Pro access point, available at their site. They also offer an AC Lite model for a more budget-friendly choice, though it lacks advanced features. Verify your devices support AC compliance and operate on 5GHz, as this frequency struggles to penetrate walls or obstacles effectively.
The router manufacturer isn't important; what counts are the internal components (chipset). Similar to a branded laptop, the core remains unchanged. What truly matters are the settings. TP-Link offers a range of affordable networking devices, and generally they provide better value for the same specifications. Keep in mind that higher frequency doesn<|pad|>, doesn't always mean a longer range—it can actually be shorter but faster. To make up for this, they use several antennas. Having 2-3 antennas is usually sufficient for one or two rooms, but you can increase to 6 or even 8 depending on your needs and cost. Ensure your devices and any Wi-Fi adapters support both 2.4GHz and 5GHz bands; otherwise, you'll be limited to speeds up to 450mbps. For budget builds, the Archer C7 is a solid choice around $80, while the AC5400 model costs about $300. Another approach is to purchase a basic AC router and some Wi-Fi extenders for additional spaces, costing around $30 each.
The devices linked through Wi-Fi are working properly. You chose 802.11n for your setup. Your wired link might be the physical cable, the router itself (which combines a router, access point, and switch into one unit), or your ISP connection that isn’t capable of higher speeds. Just because your ISP advertises 300 Mbit doesn’t guarantee your connection can support that rate. I’d consider replacing the device with a better model—something that offers AC Wi-Fi and gigabit RJ45 ports. The one you showed seems quite inexpensive.
A few members of this discussion seem to ignore the fact that we're dealing with a fibre optic link, requiring an ONT somewhere. In this scenario the Huawei device acts as the ONT and must remain in place. We can't simply remove it; instead, we should disable its Wi-Fi functionality and install an 802.11ac access point to boost the connection speed. You won't be able to fully replace the Huawei unit since it's permanently connected.