F5F Stay Refreshed Hardware Desktop What's going wrong and what can I fix it?

What's going wrong and what can I fix it?

What's going wrong and what can I fix it?

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Frinex10
Posting Freak
806
07-18-2026, 12:49 PM
#1
LINK TO MY DISPLAY PROBLEM This issue is with a working 1080 Ti graphics card. This issue is happening with a new system I built, and I tried to boot it.
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Frinex10
07-18-2026, 12:49 PM #1

LINK TO MY DISPLAY PROBLEM This issue is with a working 1080 Ti graphics card. This issue is happening with a new system I built, and I tried to boot it.

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ZzZ_PwNeD_ZzZ
Member
74
08-07-2026, 10:55 PM
#2
Full system specs, including PSU make and model (or part number) are missing. Also, how old the PSU is, and was the PSU bought new or used/refurbished? Based on screenshot - video artifacts. Either GPU or monitor issue. Also, when do you see such image? At POST? At boot up (in OS)? At some point when you do what exactly? With 0 info about issue or how it came about - it is impossible to diagnose it.
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ZzZ_PwNeD_ZzZ
08-07-2026, 10:55 PM #2

Full system specs, including PSU make and model (or part number) are missing. Also, how old the PSU is, and was the PSU bought new or used/refurbished? Based on screenshot - video artifacts. Either GPU or monitor issue. Also, when do you see such image? At POST? At boot up (in OS)? At some point when you do what exactly? With 0 info about issue or how it came about - it is impossible to diagnose it.

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donner_2
Member
60
08-08-2026, 07:13 AM
#3
Here are the specs for this computer: CPU is an Intel i5 12400F, it has 32 GB of RAM made with two sticks of 16 GB each, and I have a graphics card called Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Gaming OC that gives me 11 gigabytes. The power supply comes from a CORSAIR unit named CV650 which is new, the motherboard is an MSI Pro model H610M E, and the screen is a Samsung Odyssey G3 that measures 24 inches. This problem happens right after I turn on my PC for the first time. I'm happy to give you more details if needed. Note: The monitor works fine when it's plugged into my laptop as an extra display.
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donner_2
08-08-2026, 07:13 AM #3

Here are the specs for this computer: CPU is an Intel i5 12400F, it has 32 GB of RAM made with two sticks of 16 GB each, and I have a graphics card called Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Gaming OC that gives me 11 gigabytes. The power supply comes from a CORSAIR unit named CV650 which is new, the motherboard is an MSI Pro model H610M E, and the screen is a Samsung Odyssey G3 that measures 24 inches. This problem happens right after I turn on my PC for the first time. I'm happy to give you more details if needed. Note: The monitor works fine when it's plugged into my laptop as an extra display.

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Chester007
Senior Member
528
08-08-2026, 11:43 AM
#4
Do you have a specific reason for buying this, besides the low price? 🤔 Probably your graphics card. Since you use an F-series CPU without an integrated GPU, that makes sense. To check if it's really the GPU causing trouble, try swapping in another known-good GPU and see how things work. You can also drop the GTX 1080 Ti into a different computer to test for weird behavior there too. But before you put a new card in your system, make sure to change out the power supply first. Because what you have is probably low quality, which likely caused the problems. For another opinion on your power supply, check this list: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet.../h...1973454078 You'll see it's rated as Tier C. However, for the build you have (especially with that GTX 1080 Ti), a basic A-rated power supply is the absolute minimum needed, and an even better A+ rating would be great. (For example, my three computers run on Seasonic units. I have PRIME 650 Titanium (Tier A+), PRIME Ultra 650 Titanium (Tier A+) and Focus PX-550 unit (Tier A). Full specs with pictures are in my signature.)
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Chester007
08-08-2026, 11:43 AM #4

Do you have a specific reason for buying this, besides the low price? 🤔 Probably your graphics card. Since you use an F-series CPU without an integrated GPU, that makes sense. To check if it's really the GPU causing trouble, try swapping in another known-good GPU and see how things work. You can also drop the GTX 1080 Ti into a different computer to test for weird behavior there too. But before you put a new card in your system, make sure to change out the power supply first. Because what you have is probably low quality, which likely caused the problems. For another opinion on your power supply, check this list: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet.../h...1973454078 You'll see it's rated as Tier C. However, for the build you have (especially with that GTX 1080 Ti), a basic A-rated power supply is the absolute minimum needed, and an even better A+ rating would be great. (For example, my three computers run on Seasonic units. I have PRIME 650 Titanium (Tier A+), PRIME Ultra 650 Titanium (Tier A+) and Focus PX-550 unit (Tier A). Full specs with pictures are in my signature.)

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MrJoeAwesome
Junior Member
12
08-09-2026, 06:11 AM
#5
Thanks! You are correct, my CPU has an F-suffix so there is no iGPU backup here. I will test the GTX 1080 Ti in another working system to see if this glitch shows up. Also, I appreciate the warning about the power supply. I got the Corsair CV650 for free with my build, but now I realize it's a Tier C model on that list. Could you recommend a good Tier A or A+ PSU? (I saw the online list but I'm really confused) Thanks again for your help!
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MrJoeAwesome
08-09-2026, 06:11 AM #5

Thanks! You are correct, my CPU has an F-suffix so there is no iGPU backup here. I will test the GTX 1080 Ti in another working system to see if this glitch shows up. Also, I appreciate the warning about the power supply. I got the Corsair CV650 for free with my build, but now I realize it's a Tier C model on that list. Could you recommend a good Tier A or A+ PSU? (I saw the online list but I'm really confused) Thanks again for your help!

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nahte_ethan
Member
137
08-09-2026, 11:59 AM
#6
Since you just bought it, try moving your CPU around too. On the budget side: A+ here https://pcpartpicker.com/product/jZ...ul...650g-bkcus And this one also looks good https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Zn...er...pply-bn503 You should check these out. I might even try a couple of others from brands like MSI or Thermaltake, but they are brand new so I haven't had a chance to test them yet.
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nahte_ethan
08-09-2026, 11:59 AM #6

Since you just bought it, try moving your CPU around too. On the budget side: A+ here https://pcpartpicker.com/product/jZ...ul...650g-bkcus And this one also looks good https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Zn...er...pply-bn503 You should check these out. I might even try a couple of others from brands like MSI or Thermaltake, but they are brand new so I haven't had a chance to test them yet.

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Velizar06
Posting Freak
865
08-09-2026, 02:43 PM
#7
It all depends on your budget. If you bought a good GPU like an RTX 1080 Ti and it doesn't break after a few years, then that card can go up to about 474 watts of power. The rest of your computer only uses around 200 watts, so together they need about 675 watts total. That means you should get an 850-watt power supply unit (PSU). Here is a video showing how the GPU can suddenly use way more power than it normally does: [Watch this link]. On the other hand, if your old card broke and you're looking at buying a new one now, then an 850-watt power supply will easily handle an RTX 5070 Ti. If you want to go even stronger with something like the RTX 5080, you'd need a 1-kilowatt unit. For brand new cards and based on the link I shared earlier, Super Flower Leadex VII is top tier (A+), as are NZXT C850 (Tier A+) and Seasonic Focus GX-850 ATX 3.1 (Tier A-). So, if your old GTX 1080 Ti spikes to around 475 watts, uses extra power from the CPU during bursts at about 117 watts, but you're planning an 850-watt setup for everything?
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Velizar06
08-09-2026, 02:43 PM #7

It all depends on your budget. If you bought a good GPU like an RTX 1080 Ti and it doesn't break after a few years, then that card can go up to about 474 watts of power. The rest of your computer only uses around 200 watts, so together they need about 675 watts total. That means you should get an 850-watt power supply unit (PSU). Here is a video showing how the GPU can suddenly use way more power than it normally does: [Watch this link]. On the other hand, if your old card broke and you're looking at buying a new one now, then an 850-watt power supply will easily handle an RTX 5070 Ti. If you want to go even stronger with something like the RTX 5080, you'd need a 1-kilowatt unit. For brand new cards and based on the link I shared earlier, Super Flower Leadex VII is top tier (A+), as are NZXT C850 (Tier A+) and Seasonic Focus GX-850 ATX 3.1 (Tier A-). So, if your old GTX 1080 Ti spikes to around 475 watts, uses extra power from the CPU during bursts at about 117 watts, but you're planning an 850-watt setup for everything?

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Herbstschnee
Junior Member
21
08-10-2026, 07:43 PM
#8
If you don't have a review from a trusted PSU site, check the warranty. Seven years isn't bad, but ten or twelve makes sure you get a great unit too. For now, 650 watts might work fine, though later you probably need more power. Think about getting a stronger card like 750w or 850w down the road. The price difference is small. A PSU just uses how much it needs right away, even if its maximum power isn't used yet.
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Herbstschnee
08-10-2026, 07:43 PM #8

If you don't have a review from a trusted PSU site, check the warranty. Seven years isn't bad, but ten or twelve makes sure you get a great unit too. For now, 650 watts might work fine, though later you probably need more power. Think about getting a stronger card like 750w or 850w down the road. The price difference is small. A PSU just uses how much it needs right away, even if its maximum power isn't used yet.

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Koollojoe
Posting Freak
830
08-12-2026, 08:41 PM
#9
I'll put the 5070Ti and 5080 together at an 850W power supply, but I'd recommend a 1000W one just to be safe with the 360W version of the 5080. If you turn on overclocking, that's why the 10 series isn't as famous for those big sudden spikes like older models. A normal ATX unit should easily handle two times its usual load when the GPU flashes briefly. I'm using a 350W card with an 12700kf on my RM850x (from 2016) and it works great. They're not cheap, but you can still find them in the RM850x range; the Shift is usually the cheapest choice, just make sure your case fits because the power cables hang out from the side instead of where they should be. I'd feel comfortable going with a 750W unit for my 12400F and 1080 Ti, since the CPU eats up about 60 to 80 watts just playing games.
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Koollojoe
08-12-2026, 08:41 PM #9

I'll put the 5070Ti and 5080 together at an 850W power supply, but I'd recommend a 1000W one just to be safe with the 360W version of the 5080. If you turn on overclocking, that's why the 10 series isn't as famous for those big sudden spikes like older models. A normal ATX unit should easily handle two times its usual load when the GPU flashes briefly. I'm using a 350W card with an 12700kf on my RM850x (from 2016) and it works great. They're not cheap, but you can still find them in the RM850x range; the Shift is usually the cheapest choice, just make sure your case fits because the power cables hang out from the side instead of where they should be. I'd feel comfortable going with a 750W unit for my 12400F and 1080 Ti, since the CPU eats up about 60 to 80 watts just playing games.

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Pablo_VHP
Junior Member
31
08-13-2026, 02:38 AM
#10
Over-provisioning power isn't bad, so I draw the line at 300W for my GPU paired with an 850W power supply. If you only have a 320W card like an RTX 4080, then getting to 1kW makes sense. However, that assumes your power supply has good protection and won't break down later as it ages. It's better to go higher on wattage anyway. Also, buying the 850W unit doesn't cost much more than a 750W one; they are usually the same price or even cheaper depending on how many are left in stock.
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Pablo_VHP
08-13-2026, 02:38 AM #10

Over-provisioning power isn't bad, so I draw the line at 300W for my GPU paired with an 850W power supply. If you only have a 320W card like an RTX 4080, then getting to 1kW makes sense. However, that assumes your power supply has good protection and won't break down later as it ages. It's better to go higher on wattage anyway. Also, buying the 850W unit doesn't cost much more than a 750W one; they are usually the same price or even cheaper depending on how many are left in stock.