What's going on here? It's completely unclear how it functions.
What's going on here? It's completely unclear how it functions.
basically the device wouldn't power up quickly, so I removed the cables. The CMOS battery was taken out, and I checked if it worked by removing a side of the RAM. Now it's working fine. I expected it to freeze at code 80 or something similar indicating a RAM issue, but instead it just started. I had to push the RAM down a bit to get it to function properly because the first time it got stuck at code 13 before posting (2a). Usually I take off the RAM to reset things, but now it seems this method isn't working as well.
Well obviously at least one stick is still connected well enough to be detected and used. As for bios battery, the bios detects it as bad and tells you time and date is not set but board still gets powered from 5v standby replacing the battery. And if there's a capacitor across input of the bios, it may even survive a reset
The battery functions properly from my ex58 unit, but the board fails to save settings after resetting. It seems the CMOS battery isn’t being detected, even though a working one exists. I think the battery holder or some internal diode might be involved. Since I have soldering tools, I could remove it and rewire if needed. If fixing the circuitry proves too complex, replacing the battery with a custom setup might work.
Blackjack and sex services are both options. You might simply cover two wire leads on a 2032 and think it's enough, as long as you're comfortable with a little extra flair.
basically you just connected a few wires to both the bios chip and the 2032 battery. If you only soldered them to vcc and ground, it might work temporarily. But it’s better to use a multimeter to check everything. You might need to test the battery socket, the diode, or even the ut33d+ board. The recommendation is to buy the ut33d+ around 8 dollars now, since you can fix it yourself later. Just avoid getting drawn to cheap boards that aren’t worth fixing.
VCC and GND should function as intended, though the power source is probably where the PSU connects too. It’s a good idea to verify the battery connector first. You could test by gently connecting wires to the coin cell temporarily and securing them with tape, but be careful—this might damage your board.
I own a couple of boards that post and I really care about them. Frying one can be much harder than you think, but if I were determined, I’d just focus on the VRMs. For the battery socket, I think I could measure it directly from the pins at the bottom since it’s a through-hole design. To check voltage, look at the rest of the circuit around the CMOS battery and especially the bios chip itself.